6 to 12 volt question on a 1955 (car) V8

[buddywillb]

I have converted all the normal items suggested to 12 volts. I installed a NAPA IR1 Ford style guage regulator in line with the black w/yellow strip plus wire going to the guages. I have 12v in and 7 volts out of the reg.
When I turn on the ign switch the gas guage starts up then flickers up and down. Reading the voltage with DVM shows the voltage fluxuating on the 6 volt and the 12 side of the regulator.
Has anyone ran in to this, is there possibly a circuit breaker in this circuit anywhere? I don't see one in the wiring diagram.
Any ideas or advice appreciated.

buddywillb

[55blacktie]

Go to ctci.org/gilsgarage/

Following Gil's instructions, I converted my 55 Tbird to 12v. It was not necessary to replace 6v gauges or 6v sending units or use a "ford style g[a]uge regulator." Don't mix 6v gauges/w 6v sending units and vice versa.

[dmsfrr]

https://www.ctci.org/battery-for-6v-to-12v-conversion/

"You do not need to change any switches or gauges. The fuel and temp gauges will work on 6 or 12 V and are not polarity sensitive."

The gauges work thru heat sensitive switching contacts, not variable voltage. Diagram below...

In almost all cases the original King-Seeley brand '55 fuel gauge and tank sensor are not voltage or polarity sensitive, and the extra voltage regulator is not necessary.

The new gauge voltage reducer you installed is a switch that alternates between on & off and creates an 'average' voltage, not actually a regulated steady voltage.

Is there a chance the gauges have been replaced with an after-market reproduction version?

[rotorwrench]

If it has the original King Seeley units, I would prefer the Runtz type solid state CVRs to those old chopper type units. They were never constant in their voltage output but they will function. They tend to speed up and slow down in buzz rate depending on generator or alternator output at any given time. The solid state units are constant in output but they are limited to how much current can run through them. This is why they use one for each affected indicator. Oil pressure, coolant temperature, and fuel quantity are the ones affected. Some manufacturers may be better than others on this stuff. Too much of it comes from questionable sources now days.

Folks can buy the Instrument Regulator type CVRs for around $20 each or they can make them themselves a lot cheaper if they have solder skills. The older chopper type multi gauge units were likely made better than the modern off shore replacements. I don't know the specs on the ECH IR1 unit. Since Echlin was bought out by Standard motor parts there is less info to be found on them. This is an old thread on the subject.https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=263733

King Seeley design indicating equipment was designed to keep electrical energy out of flamable places and keep heat output to a minimum. When the cars were still using the lower 6-volt nominal operating system, heat wasn't a concern. When the manufacturers all switched over to 12-volt, it became a concern after problems started showing up. This led to the eventual reduction of instrument systems voltage to a lower level. It was likely from 5 to 6-volts for optimal use. Ford used these system designs clear up into the 60s& later on some so many later model cars have the instrument voltage regulators. A lot of the replacements have an IC chip inside but early ones were still pulsating voltage reduction systems very much like the indicating systems were.

Folks will likely have to register for this forum to see the photos but this shows the innards of the chopper type units. Check the You-Tube link out on there.
https://www.vintagethunderbirdclub.n...pic.php?t=9524

Here is another one.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Jae0HMvlMg

[5851a]

I know the articles say that the King Seely gauges are not voltage sensitive or polarity sensitive. I wonder how far a person is going stressing them with double voltage though. Some of the 60's cars I had used an RF choke? on the positive terminal of the CVR to stop radio interference. I have used the CVR before and seemed to work ok but they do vary the readings and have had them stick before. Nothing a good slap on the dash didn't cure. I asked an older friend what they did back in the day, he said they would wire a common 60W light bulb on the positive gauge feed in series. He said it worked but I never tried. I think the stable electronic regulators would be better now days.

[KDAWG97M3]

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Very helpful l

[darrell]

im changing my 55 as well.where is the flasher on the 55.ive looked everywhere.

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by darrell

im changing my 55 as well.where is the flasher on the 55.ive looked everywhere.

Usually within a foot or so of the steering column, because it's in the wiring between the ignition switch and turn signal switch. And will have an inline fuse-holder in the Orange/yellow power wire to it. A metal clip often holds it to the back side of the dashboard.
Have you tried turning the ignition key to Accessory, engaging the turn signals and locating the flasher by its clicking sound?

[down-the-road]

https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/Discussion-c3827_ds506712
Post by 55gtop:
Finally found it. For anyone else who may have the same problem, flasher is located in the dash just to the left of steering column. You are looking for a rectangular flasher, NOT the cylindrical flasher that most of us are used to seeing. Is mounted to the dash with a clip.

[Daves55Sedan]

Originally Posted by darrell

im changing my 55 as well.where is the flasher on the 55.ive looked everywhere.

The turn signal flasher is a cylindrical shaped unit about 1 inch in diameter and 1 inch to 1-1/2 inch long. It is located at a spring-steel clip mounted at the center of the four controls (ignition, headlights, left-air, wipers) on the back side of the dashboard. Someone may have un-plugged the flasher from it's spring-steel mounting bracket and left it hanging. But if you can trace the orange wires down, they terminate at the flasher.
When converting to 12-volts, you must replace your 6-volt flasher with a 12-volt unit. It is the same diameter and will fit in the spring-steel mounting clip same as the old unit.

[darrell]

found it.in the centre of the 4 controls.i dont know if i ever would have found it.it didnt make a sound or i would have found it.thanks