34 Pickup Brake Adjust Screw Frozen

[tubman]

"T-A-I-W-A-N" ain't as bad as "C-H-I-N-A". The square socket look pretty good to me. I'll bet it would fare better than the next size up 12-pt. Unless it is prohibitively expensive, I'd get one.

[jhswolf]

Besides Home Depot, there is an Ace Hardware in my town that I will visit this morning. If they don't have an 8 point socket, I have an appointment on Monday in Wilmington Delaware and I'll look around that area. I live in LSD (Lower Slower Delaware) and there's not too many tool companies around here.

Is it worth the gamble to get the Taiwan square plug socket? Seems like that would have the most positive bite?

Your description of the screw removal procedure combined with the pictures now make a lot more sense. It dawned on me that it would be impossible to screw the adjuster all the way out to remove it, hence screwing it in to pop off that cap. Thanks!

John

[Vics Stuff]

Forcing it with a wrench is only going to do damage in the end . As I mentioned , the high heat and quenching cycle is the best . That helps to break the bond between the two parts. I do this process quite frequently while working on this old stuff. Especially if I am trying to save parts to reuse.
Vic

[jhswolf]

Vic,
No intention to force it (I've got a bucketful of snapped bolt heads already). I am going to try the heat and quench cycle. But, I ordered a 7/16" square socket from Amazon tonight because I have no other wrench to really fit the adjuster. Supposed to arrive Wed and I hope to have an update to you all by the weekend.
John

[Brian]

I don't think you'll get it hot enough with your propane torch...you really need oxy/acetylene

[Doug 845]

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When removing exhaust manifold bolts I heated up the base of the bolt with Map gas and then sprayed the head of the bolt with Freeze-Off from CRC. They all came out without a problem.

[bobH]

My take on sockets.... inexpensive, throw-away items. I'd be trying one, even if 'Twan' or that other place. Not much to lose. I have a small collection of ground-off sockets, or modified in other ways. Cheap specialty tools. And... heat/quench, with OA, not propane.

[cas3]

How goes the battle, any good news?

[Vics Stuff]

As I have mentioned , the heat and cold shock cycles has always been my friend. Even sometimes I surprise myself. Even if you only have map gas it will take several more cycles than a oxy acetylene torch. the more real heat and cold cycles you do , the greater chances the two parts will brake free.
Vic

[cas3]

Vic, with respect I have to disagree. While heating and cooling for "shock" treatment is certainly a good method for some applications, like for example, a head stud in a block, it is not the method I would use When its really like a nut and bolt situation where you can get heat to the nut. In this case, the nut is the threaded boss for the adjustment screw. When trying to break thing loose in a situation like this, nuts and bolts lets say, the point is to QUICKLY heat the outside, the nut, or the boss in this case, but quickly heat the nut so that it expands from the heat before the inside part, bolt, or in this case the brake adjuster screw, gets hot. again in short, heat the nut quickly so the inside part is still cold. As stated by Brian, you need an oxy/act torch to do this. Heating with a small map gas, or propane torch will take so long that both parts have expanded, and you have gained nothing. Another thing to remember, is when heating a nut for example, only heat one flat to red hot, not the whole nut. If you heat the whole nut, you have allowed the heat to transfer to the bolt, and expand, and, when both parts are red hot they will start to weld together and ruin the threads and the part. IMHO

[jhswolf]

I received the 7/16 square impact socket the other day.

I don't have an OA setup so I will do my best with the MAPP and CRC freeze. It will take longer than OA, but it's all the tools I have at hand and will do the best I can.

This morning it is 29 degrees in the driveway, so I may have to wait until a little warmer day.

I appreciate all the invaluable insights. The back and forth discussions are extremely helpful especially when each poster not only offers advice, but explains why they feel that way. This forum is the most active I've been on and I'm fortunate to be able to participate and hear from all of you.

I will keep you updated. I can't wait to slide back under there and try out some of these suggestions.

[tubman]

Just curious; does the socket look like a quality item?

[jhswolf]

It does fit on the stud well. Quality may be a question. Here are a couple of pictures of it compared to a 13mm socket made by Home Depot's Kobalt brand (which is also made in Taiwan). The Kobalt is the one on the left. You can see the Kobalt has more meat on it than the 7/16 square one. But I don't anticipate using an impact wrench on the 7/16, maybe just a long ratchet or breaker bar.

[Zeke3]

I think the hammering action of an impact wrench may be helpful in loosening the stubborn fastener. Switch it between reverse and forward, giving a short blast in either direction to try to loosen things up. I have been impressed with the capabilities of the electric battery operated impacts available today. Good luck, hope you are successful.

[Terry,OH]

Look at posting #15, if you turn the adjuster CCW it will lock up and not move any further. If you turn CW it will move and adjust the shoes outward. Moving it too much CW with the drum on and the adjustment can lock up again. So there is a range of adjustment with the brake drum on. Suggest you remove the drum and disassemble the brake shoes especially if you plan to use a impact. You can look into the adjustment cavity look to see where the adjuster is and then decide to move CW or CCW to brake the adjustment free.The cavity is usually very dirty and filled with grease that can be cleaned out before heating. The adjuster can push the stamped metal cap off and the once frozen adjuster can be removed completely. Same the steel cap and reinstall.

[jhswolf]

Terry,
I hadn't thought about the limited range the adjuster screw can be turned CCW and CW and it makes sense. Thanks.

One problem is the drum won't come off because the brakes must have worn a groove into the drum. In their current position, the drum won't clear the brake shoes. The brake adjuster will have to be turned some amount CCW in order to get the shoes to clear the drum.

I appreciate the detailed explanation.

It's supposed to be a nice day here tomorrow, I'm hoping to get a chance to get back under there.

[Anteek29]

[QUOTE=Zeke3;2088072]I think the hammering action of an impact wrench may be helpful in loosening the stubborn fastener. Switch it between reverse and forward, giving a short blast in either direction to try to loosen things up.



I agree

[35 TN project]

Thanks everyone! This all good stuff. I was in the process of getting the right front wheel un stuck from rust and sitting the last 60 years and to deal with some stubborn screws today. This post helped.

[jhswolf]

Not a good day yesterday. I tried four cycles of the heat and freeze along with blipping the impact gun in forward and reverse, and no effect. I even tried a cycle of just heat with no freeze. Each time I set a timer for 5 minutes of MAPP gas. This is a very stuck stud.

Unfortunately, on the last heat/freeze cycle, I didn't have the socket seated all the way on the stud and I snapped about 1/8" to 3/16" off the end of the stud! Oh no. At least there is still a good amount of stud left. See pictures.

As mentioned in the previous posts, I think the MAPP just won't get this one hot enough. I've been very successful in the past with MAPP and propane, but this particular stud is really frozen.

I don't have an O/A setup, but it looks like I'm going to have to invest in one. I've researched them years ago, but it seemed like a big investment to get a long enough heat time.

At any rate, I'm at what we used to called at work a "strategic pause" and until I get a better heat source, my progress will be temporarily delayed.

If someone has a recommendation for a decent O/A setup that won't break the bank, I'm all ears.

Merry Christmas to all and I appreciate all the help.

[deuce lover]

I agree with cas3.Oxy/Act torch and get it red hot and that should free it up using the correct wrench.When you able to get the drum off I suggest you completely service the brake assy. Remove the shoes and then run that adj screw all the way in until it pops off the cap and continue till the screw comes entirely loose and drops off.Chase the threads with a tap and clean out all the crud.Replace the adj screw, grease then reinstall that cap.It pops into a groove so gentle taps on a socket a bit smaller and against that cap.I'd give you that adj screw I have but where I am would cost to much to mail it.