Nailing top wood

[Portland/JohnR]

Hey gentlemen and the rest of you! I am restoring a 29 Tudor and have a couple questions about nailing. From what I have read, it is a good idea to pre-drill? Also I have anywhere from a 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch between the body metal and the wood. Is that normal? I assume one would just put the nail in so it is tight to the metal and not try to pull the metal up tight to the wood. Thanks Guys!

[Oldbluoval]

Depending on where it is there is anti squeak between metal and wood
Generally 1/4" gap is not close enough. Wood usually snugs up to anti squeak
Can't answer with a broad brush as it sorta "depends"

[wrndln]

The gap you have (1/8" to 1/4") doesn't seem right. The metal and wood should be real close to each other. Something must be wrong. Where are the gaps - pictures?? Ford used a product call Dum Dum, which was a real thick black tar looking material between most metal and wood to eliminate or reduce squeaks. 3M makes a product similar to Dum Dum called Strip Caulk. It is black and comes in a box of about 50 or so 1 foot lengths of caulk about 1/8" or 3/16" in diameter. I used it in many places on my 28 special coupe.
Rusty Nelson

[Portland/JohnR]

I can't do pictures,sorry. It is the top area above the doors all the way around the top where the gutters and top nail on.

[Steve Plucker]

The area that you are refering to, the wood should come real close to the sheet metal roof. From what I have seen, and as Rusty said above, there should be a black strip of Dum Dum along this area...both sides along with the front and back. This area is very important and hopefully the wood should of been prefitted to the body, taken out, then add the Dum Dum and then put the wood back in so you get a good seal all the way around the top. Otherwise, in time you will soon see signs of leakage of water in those areas.

If you are in Portland, Oregon...there are several Model A Clubs in the area. Might want to get with a few of the members there to help you out.

When you go to put the top fabric on...make sure it is on a very warm day so to pull the fabric very tight when nailing...I am sure you know this???

Pluck

[Portland/JohnR]

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OK, Thank you all ! Looks like I have some fitting work I should have done. I will get the Dum Dum and do it right.

[Bob C]

Here's a link to Marco's article on a tudor top install if you haven't seen it.
http://www.abarnyard.com/workshop/roofinstall-1.htm

Bob

[100IH]

To me, dum dum is a caulk. Caulk can squeeze down to "0" thickness. In the trades the dum dum is known as strip caulk or monkey s--t. It does firm up slightly after a long time. If you have a small gap to shim out the sheet metal away from the wood structure, heavy felt paper used in roofing will not squeeze out and distort the sheet metal. Thicker material would be asphalt shingle material with the gritty coating scraped off. I have found these materials used on un-molested Model As. The asphalt will serve to control squeaks and rattles even better than strip caulk.

[100IH]

To answer another, I wouldn't pre-drill nail holes but I would suggest bucking behind the wood with something heavy. The twisty body nails that are out there might be an exception. Never drill for tacks.

[Dennis Pereira]

I used 3-M strip caulk also then pulled the wood tight to the metal with clamps before nailing and no drilling.

[Portland/JohnR]

Thanks!

[duke36]

Just a reminder that some of the (oil based) caulks can bleed when exposed to heat (top , etc.) The original asphaltic material mentioned inside the doors and body got rock hard and were not elastic, which may be desirable between wood and metal. Also, over time , if new wood is used ,it can shrink requiring bolts and nuts be re-tightened before final finish/ interior work.