Advice on 292 Y Block Rebuild. Please.

[bigdaddy3]

Ok, here goes. I have a 1955 Fordor Customline. Original 272 with FordOMatic. Runs pretty well.

I purchased a 292 out of a 1957 Ford. It came with a newer FordOMatic attached. The guy I bought it from took it out of the car himself. He has built many a Y-Block in his days. After cleaning it up and taking it completely apart I made some discoveries. Here's what I've got.


292 Block from a 1959 car that has already been bored .040. B9AE-F
ECZ G heads. Not sure what year.
Intake manifold is ECZ 9425-B single 4 barrel.

From what I understand, these are all pretty desirable parts when you want to build a Hopped Up Y-Block. What would you do? What other parts would you add?

I am thinking about headers from Red's Headers which will go back to Smithy's. Also going to lower the car and upgrade to 12 Volt. Possibly a disc brake kit in the front.

Any advice would be very helpful.

[Ole Don]

You nailed it. You have some of the best Y block parts ever sold. Check the block by the main bearing bolts for cracks. Do not over tighten them, there were two values printed for torque on those bolts. Use the lower of the two, around 90 to 95 off the top of my head without looking it up. If there is sludge in the engine, be sure to remove the plate behind the oil filter to clean there too. The new head gaskets will have instructions on where to drill steam holes. Gasket match the intake and exhaust ports, and make a plenum in the intake. A mild cam will really wake up the motor with these changes.

[streetdreams]

x2 on what Ole Don says. The '59 block has deeper main bolt threads, but still follow the advice on the lower torque specs.

[Noswal]

x3 on what Don and Streetdreams are saying. If you have the later dual exhaust manifolds the performance will be about the same as the Red's Headers, but you won't have the header "wow" factor. Good mild cam, later distributor and you should have a strong, healthy y-block.

[rick55]

X4 on what has been said already. I also like to fit a double row roller timing chain and gears. Good old Oz product from Romac but surprizingly find it hard to get here. i have to bring it in from the States. A little bit noisier than the standard chain but less prone to stretch. Also allows for easy advancement of the cam for better street performance.
Don't go too big on the cam if you are keeping it auto. I have a 280 degree duration cam (30/70) in my Mainline with manual trans and it is a handful in traffic though it goes like stink. I have built a 292 + 0.60" for my other car and installed an Isky E4 about 265 duration I think. A friend has one of these in a 312 with AOD and it is a delight to drive. Goes real nice and easily keeps up with modern traffic.
Regards

[Ronnie]

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That put a smile on your face now didn't it.

R

[46yblock]

Just my 2 cents, but I would put on RamsHorns rather than headers. If I remember right they performed better in Ted Eaton's Dyno tests of exhaust systems, than most of the headers.

[teejay99]

Are all ramhorns created equal or are there clearance issues ( steering box or whatever ) in some applications ?

T

[46yblock]

With regards to steering box clearance they are all equal. I did have some trouble with a set of new Mummert Rams Horns with clearance for the sparkplug socket. Had to gradually grind the radius of the socket down to keep it from binding up on one or two of the inside sparkplugs. Never heard of anyone else with that problem, so perhaps the head spark plug bores were off slightly.

They are for truck only, '53-'64, not cars.

Now trying to put them on a Y in a '46 pickup is another Big Problem.

[Y-Blockhead]

Sounds like you did good on your 292 purchase, do like Rick said and don't get too wild with the cam with the Fordo or you will need a higher stall converter and gears. If you got the '57 duel exhaust manifolds with the engine run them. Rams horns won't fit on a sedan, Motor mounts are in the way.

As for brakes and lowering the car, we can help with suggestions on that also. The old Fords have pretty good suspension, just needs some upgrades. Don't go sub-framing it!!

[46yblock]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

Sounds like you did good on your 292 purchase, do like Rick said and don't get too wild with the cam with the Fordo or you will need a higher stall converter and gears. If you got the '57 duel exhaust manifolds with the engine run them. Rams horns won't fit on a sedan, Motor mounts are in the way.

As for brakes and lowering the car, we can help with suggestions on that also. The old Fords have pretty good suspension, just needs some upgrades. Don't go sub-framing it!!

oops, I read that it was a car, then for some reason thought truck .

[bigdaddy3]

Thanks so much of all the advice. Love this forum, just like I love my 1955 Customline.

So, a new Isky E-4 Cam with springs to match should do the trick?

One of the exhaust manifold was cracked, so I was going to go with the one's I've attached. Love the Ram's Horns, but they will definitely not fit.

For the distributor, I was going to get a Pertronix Ignitor III. I think i can just change the insides and keep the stock looking distributor and cap.

Trying to track down the Rollmaster Timing Chain combo, very hard to find.

How about a harmonic balancer? Any carb advice?

Limited number of pistons/rings out there to choose from.

Ok, since you all have been so helpful, here's the brake lowering plan. So far.

For the back, I found the Posies Super Sliders Springs for a 3" lower in the back.

I heard the front disc brake conversion which uses Granada parts will automatically lower the front 1 1/2", so I was going to do that and see if I need to put the Aerostar springs on for another 1-1 1/2" lowering.

Also, I am going to upgrade the front sway bar and use poly bushings. And, add a rear sway bar.

What else I am missing?

Thanks so much for all the advice. Thanks for helping me build something cool.

[46yblock]

Wow! Nice car! I have sent 3 stock dampers to DamperDoc for rebuild. He does a good job and has fast turnaround. The Rollmaster Timing sets were available on ebay up to about a year ago.

[Noswal]

Take a look here for the timing chain, and lots of other y-block "goodies".

http://www.ford-y-block.com/perfpart.htm

[Y-Blockhead]

On the suspension I recommend KYB Gas-A-Just shocks on all four corners along with your proposed changes. Never used the Poly bushings but have heard they give a harsh ride. If only using poly bushings on the sway bar it should be OK though.

[Noswal]

X2 on the KYB shocks.

The KYB shocks are:

KG4503 -- front
KG5517 -- rear

[Ole Don]

I have a heavy duty front sway bar, the kit came with the hard plastic bushings and instructions to drill and tap the caps for grease fittings. I did, I give them a shot once a year. I bought my KYB shocks from PST. (www.p-s-t.com) There is an article about Granada brake install in the Y Block magazine from about 1999 or so, if you had a copy it may be helpful. I'll look and see if I still have it.

[bigdaddy3]

Again, this is very helpful. Thank you.

Might seem like a stupid question, but are the KYB part numbers you gave me good for after I lower the back 3" and the front goes down 1.5" with the Brake Kit?

Is that Granada Brake Kit the best way to go?

[Y-Blockhead]

My Ranchwagon is dropped ~3" in front and 2" in back using those KYB's. Only problem (for me) is I have to undo the lower shock mount in the rear to drop the axle down far enough to get the tire(s) off.

IMO the Granada brakes are the best and easiest. I have the whole braking system from a Granada, 11" discs, spindles etc. and power booster and M/C. Rear I have Granada drums on a 8" Granada rear end.

[scicala]

Originally Posted by bigdaddy3

Thanks so much of all the advice. Love this forum, just like I love my 1955 Customline.

So, a new Isky E-4 Cam with springs to match should do the trick?

One of the exhaust manifold was cracked, so I was going to go with the one's I've attached. Love the Ram's Horns, but they will definitely not fit.

For the distributor, I was going to get a Pertronix Ignitor III. I think i can just change the insides and keep the stock looking distributor and cap.

Trying to track down the Rollmaster Timing Chain combo, very hard to find.

How about a harmonic balancer? Any carb advice?

Limited number of pistons/rings out there to choose from.

Ok, since you all have been so helpful, here's the brake lowering plan. So far.

For the back, I found the Posies Super Sliders Springs for a 3" lower in the back.

I heard the front disc brake conversion which uses Granada parts will automatically lower the front 1 1/2", so I was going to do that and see if I need to put the Aerostar springs on for another 1-1 1/2" lowering.

Also, I am going to upgrade the front sway bar and use poly bushings. And, add a rear sway bar.

What else I am missing?

Thanks so much for all the advice. Thanks for helping me build something cool.

Sounds like a lot of great advice form the Ford Barn again. As far as a carb, that's another area that will kill you if you go too big. Original 312's with the factory Holley I think were rated at just barely 400 CFM if that. If you do the cam change to the E4 Isky and improved exhaust system, I would say a 500 CFM carb would be great for the street. I don't think Holley offers one that size, but pretty sure Edelbrock does (old Carter AFB style). Maybe even a Holley 600 CFM (part # LIST 1850 is less costly than other Holleys). Unless you are racing and doing higher RPMS, you will like the smaller carb (500) on the street much better.