to drain or not to drain

[wingski]

Another question. I am going to pull the pan on my ’29 cabriolet to make sure everything is torqued correctly. Has anyone ever blocked the pan securely and lowered it with oil in it? I have a small floor jack that lowers very smoothly and slowly so I’m not worried about a jerky descent that would cause spills. And, I have the blocks to keep the pan level.

What do you think? Even though the oil is clean, I still have an adversion to pouring drained oil back into an engine.

Mike

[Bill G]

I think your bigger task will be putting a pan back on that is full of oil. That seems like an accident waiting to happen! If you don't want to drain and pour the oil back in, then 5 more quarts might just be part of the cost of re-torquing. Do you have reason to believe they are not torqued correctly?

[Railcarmover]

The best thing you can do for your engine is changing the oil.. often. Debris introduced from removing the pan and tinkering with it are more than you'll get driving cross country. Don't be cheap with oil when rebuilding the engine is so expensive. Your trying to save 20 bucks worth of oil by jeopardizing a 4000 dollar engine...

[WHN]

Why!!!

[FordTudor1931]

If you drain the oil, you'll get a chance to see if there is anything at the bottom of the pan!

[Big hammer]

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Only if you have alot of Dawn soap :-)

[Jw]

drain it, pull it, remove the dipper pan, clean tray and pan, reinstall dipper pan correctly, install new gaskets on the block, install rope seal in pan if required, install pan, install fasteners and torque to 7 ft lbs, reinstall drain plug and gasket if required, add oil (5 qts), start engine, check for leaks, all ok? then good to go. (Hint, cut the head off of a couple of bolts and insert in block so the pan will line up correctly, once pan is installed, remove the install alignment bolt stud and install the correct bolts and torque per spec) Technical writer, could of written more detail, the idea is there.

[Synchro909]

If you're worried about losing the oil, wait till it is due for replacement, then drop the sump. BTW, it seems to me you have too much time on your hands if there is no problem but you want to check torques. Is there a reason to do it?
Remember the old trueism "If it aint broke, don't fix it."

[JDupuis]

As stated earlier Mike; very tricky to put the pan back on with oil in it. Good luck with your decision.
Jeff

[michael a]

Originally Posted by JDupuis

As stated earlier Mike; very tricky to put the pan back on with oil in it. Good luck with your decision.
Jeff

Just an idea instead of doing all that unnecessary crap fired up and go for a drive enjoy the day

Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk

[1931 flamingo]

WHY X2.
Paul in CT

[Jw]

the very first thing that will happen is that the oil filled pan will fall off the floor jack, it happened to me only ONE time. How will you check the main and rods with cotter pins? remove the pins to check torque, then you have a lubricated nut and bolt/stud, and the specified torque is for a "dry" fastener. and to the above question, Why do you want to check the lower end? Forgot to say in my above info is to inspect the oil for Babbitt material, use a magnet for metallic material, check the pump for the lower spring, comments, opinions, I learn stuff everyday

[40 Deluxe]

Just spray around the drain plug with carburetor cleaner and blow or wipe dry. Loosen the drain plug a few turns and let some oil dribble out. Then drain it into a clean pan and cover the pan with a piece of cardboard. Pour the oil back using a clean funnel. It won't hurt a thing. Don't be superstitious!

[Ray in La Mesa]

Wingski, I have dropped the pan without draining the oil many times. You just have to be careful as you lower it as the front lip will hit the tie rod. It's a lot easier to pour the oil into the used container once rather than twice. The floor jack works super to do it.One cabriolet to a man to another!

[wingski]

The reason I want to check the torque on everything down under is because when I bought the cabriolet it was spotless. It still is. No dirt, no leaks, and no grease. However, almost every nut and bolt on this car was only finger tight, maybe a little bit tighter than that, but way too loose. If I would have tried to drive it when I got it home, who knows what would have fallen off, been lost, or whatever.

When I did get it running and drove it down to my neighbor’s to show off, he thought he could hear some bottom end noise. I couldn’t, but my hearing really sucks. I don’t know if Ernie was just jealous of my beautful blue cabriolet, or if he really heard something. For an 89 year old guy, his hearing is phenominal though.

So, that’s the reason or reasons to pull the pan.

Oh, by the way, this thing has a spin-on filter. And like I said, nothing cruddy to get in the oil when I drop the pan. And thanks for the advice, I am going to drain the oil before removing the pan. I decided I want to check closely for any metal down there, so I’d have to drain it anyway.

Thanks again, you guys are great,

Mike

[redmodelt]

Last time I was around anyone that dropped the pan with oil in it, we were on I-5 heading North and had to make an emergency repair to change out a rod bearing in an MG along side of the freeway. That would be the only time that I could see doing it that way.

So drain the oil in to a clean oil pan or buy new oil, 5 qt isn't that costly unless you are using something besides regular oil.

[J Franklin]

I have checked the bearings as you endeavor to try and there was no problem. I would think it would be easier to drain it into a clean container and filter it as it is returned to the pan.

[Bruce Adams]

Five quarts of oil costs between ten and twenty-five dollars. WHY would you not drain and give to reclamation place?

[J Franklin]

Maybe drain it and use it in the lawnmower. Remember when they used to use old oil to keep the dust down on the dirt roads and driveways?

[1930-Pickup]

Originally Posted by Bruce Adams

Five quarts of oil costs between ten and twenty-five dollars. WHY would you not drain and give to reclamation place?

I just paid 37 for five quarts of premium conventional 10-40 at Pep-Boys. You guys on the right coast have it easy!

[Railcarmover]

My father ran a '31 coupe from new york to florida on penny a quart drain oil..in 1946..the service stations back then would do oil changes and bottle the drained oil to resell.

this whole thread is a doozy,from 89 year olds diagnosing loose bearings by ear to deciding whether the change the oil when doing a repair..you're just pulling our legs aintcha wingski..you just have to make shit like that up dontcha

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by 1930-Pickup

I just paid 37 for five quarts of premium conventional 10-40 at Pep-Boys. You guys on the right coast have it easy!

It's all those environmental add-ons and taxes I guess. Online pro-line 10w40 from pep boys lists for 4.29 and is on sale now for 3.65. 4.29x5= 21.45.

[Railcarmover]

Originally Posted by Mike V. Florida

It's all those environmental add-ons and taxes I guess. Online pro-line 10w40 from pep boys lists for 4.29 and is on sale now for 3.65. 4.29x5= 21.45.

Lets see,rebuild an engine cause you scrimped on a oil change?

1000 bucks a cylinder X 4 cylinders= 4000.00...you do the math

[Patrick L.]

I think if you try to R&R the oil pan with the oil in it you'll get a crash course on how to rust proof the garage floor. [ smiley face]

Oil isn't that expense or just wait until the oil needs to be changed.

Its just a recommendation, but, if going thru the effort to drop the pan I'd recommend checking/adjusting the clearances.

[100IH]

Maybe Ernie should drop the pan, he heard the noise.

[Brendan]

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when i was a kid, i was working om a Ford Falcon, the trans. i thought i would be smart and put the oil in it first! Wrong! what a mess i made. never again