Straightening exhaust Pipe

[bobpo1]

Has anyone out there had to straighten the muffler pipe to align it properly with the Exhaust Manifold? I have the tube of exhaust putty. What's the easiest way to align the pipe?

I am getting fumes from this connection and it is driving my wife crazy. When we go for a drive, she hangs her head out her window and sometimes with a handkerchief.

Downright 'barrassing. That's not to mention the exhaust noise coming from the engine compartment..

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Likely it is the exhaust manifold that is warped (drooped) and bending the pipe only aggravates the problem. If you are still adamant about bending the exhaust pipe, then use a floor jack handle inserted into the pipe and move it in the direction you need.

Also, be sure and verify that the flange on the pipe does not have a welded seam that is causing the leak.

[Mitch//pa]

by using the insert pipe it brings the two together in a straight line. it will also solve your leak if the bell on the pipe flange is good.. no muck or gaskets required.
replace the clamp also it has an up and a down
i dont blame the wife i wouldnt want to ride in it either

[1crosscut]

Check to make sure there isn't a ridge of metal around the inside lip of the muffler where it attaches to the manifold.
Using a floor jack raise the muffler into place against the manifold just enough to make good contact. Adjust the muffler so it is perfectly aligned with the manifold. You may need to leave the tail pipe clamp pretty loose to do this.
After it is lined up perfectly lower the floor jack just enough to apply a thin bead of the muffler cement to the muffler flange. Raise the jack up and install the muffler clamp. Make sure the clamp is right side up.
You probably don't need to use the muffler cement but it really doesn't hurt to use a bit of it.

Good luck.

[bunnyc]

I used a couple bungie cords and floor jack to get the exhaust pipe lined up with the manifold. Put the clamp on. Bent a piece of flat bar, drilled a couple holes and made an off-set bracket to hold the tail pipe where it "wanted" to be.

[mhsprecher]

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Also make sure that the flange is adequate. I had problems with my pipe and used an insert. It still came apart because the flange was too small. Once I had the manifold connection flared properly, it does not leak and no muffler cement used. Some older mufflers, like mine, were made this way.

[bobpo1]

For my wife's sake (and of course mine) I will try these methods.
Thanks for all the input.

P.S. I sprayed carb cleaner around the exhaust manifold and didn't note any change in running.

[Patrick L.]

As said, I've just used a length of cheater pipe to 'position' the front pipe correctly. The tighter fit of the 'cheater' the better.

[CarlG]

What is an "oioe"?

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by CarlG

What is an "oioe"?

One key off..........it should have been PIPE.

[jthomas6]

Originally Posted by CarlG

What is an "oioe"?

I think it is dependent on Year and Model:

"OIOE (Operation No. - AutoIncrement) is a standard SAP transaction code available within R/3 SAP systems depending on your version and release level. "

[JackA]

I took mine to Midas Muffler, he heated it with a torch and with a long pipe, bent it to my spec. Didn't charge me a cent.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

I grease the flare & the inside of the clamp, to help It settle in & TAP-TAP-TAP, ON THE CLAMP, as I tighten it. Be sure to re-tighten the clamp bolts, after driving it some.
Bill W.

[Chuck Sea/Tac]

Originally Posted by bobpo1

For my wife's sake (and of course mine) I will try these methods.
Thanks for all the input.

P.S. I sprayed carb cleaner around the exhaust manifold and didn't note any change in running.

Spraying something around the manifolds, is to find a suction leak on the intake.

[Tacoma Bob]

I tried the heat method on my stainless aries and a new manifold. It didn't work. Took it to a friend that owns a muffler/rad shop and we used his tubing bender. worked perfectly.

[Tom from Drippin']

Prior to installing the clamp, wrap several layers of aluminum foil around the joint. Then install the clamp and trim excess foil.
Works for me.

[bobpo1]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

One key off..........it should have been PIPE.

Thanks, you're right. I tried to correct it but it would not allow me to do so. Senior moment

[Roger V]

Had this problem before with what they used to call the $50 muffler and in conjunction with a typical drooping exhaust manifold. The flange was never wide enough so I took it to a muffler shop to widen the flange. Past repro clamps never were right so always used an original. Centered the flange to the manifold and determined the drop of the tailpipe. Heated and bent the exhaust pipe end so the tailpipe would have its slip fit in its frame clamp so it could slide with heat expansion. This prevented stressing the manifold both by eliminating the forces upward as well as forward. Never cared for the band aid fixes of cement, gasket, or inner sleeve.

[Benson]

FWIW:

A few years ago Chris Pelikan, the carb rebuilder guy, did a series of experiments on the causes of "vapor lock" and excessive heat under the hood using several cars and an infrared digital thermometer.

Vapor lock is also a condition where gasoline boils and creates vapor in the sediment bowl and the fuel line and so liquid gas can not get to the fuel bowl ... (if you do not believe in vapor lock)

1. One thing that he looked at was the use of the "inserts" in the manifold/ exhaust pipe junction.

He found VERY high manifold/pipe temperatures in the area on each side of the insert.

His conclusion was that the use of the insert created a restriction in the flow which raised the temperature excessively and reduced engine power.

2. He also found that old "$50 mufflers" with the NON Mandrel bends (where the diameter of the pipe is reduced in the bending process) had the same effect as using the insert.

The folks at Aires muffler found the same problem with the "non mandrel bends" in the cheap mufflers.


NOTE: response in post 26 is the only thing in this thread that is poor and miss leading.



1032

[Benson]

Originally Posted by bobpo1

Thanks, you're right. I tried to correct it but it would not allow me to do so. Senior moment

Bob,

You may change the title of your post by:

1. click Edit



2. Click "Go Advanced" at bottom of window


Now a window appears where you can edit your title!

[bobpo1]

Originally Posted by Benson

Bob,

You may change the title of your post by:

1. click Edit



2. Click "Go Advanced" at bottom of window


Now a window appears where you can edit your title!

Thanks

[CarlG]

I couldn't get mine to seal right, so I took my exhaust manifold and pipe/muffler to a muffler shop to have them enlarge the flange. He said that the pipe material was too hard/brittle after so many heat cycles. So, he made a new flange. After I fit checked it to my vehicle, he welded it in place.

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by JackA

I took mine to Midas Muffler, he heated it with a torch and with a long pipe, bent it to my spec. Didn't charge me a cent.

Midas here have a reputation for asking for your first born for anything

[Tom Wesenberg]

In the 70's I had an 8 AM appointment to have Midas install a tailpipe on my Studebaker. No one sold the pipe, so I had to go to Midas. I didn't get in until noon, so I watched them work. There main tools were a rosebud torch and big hammer. They heated and pounded things into place because they didn't bend the pipes quite right. After I left Midas at 1 PM I was on my way out of state. The tailpipe fell off within 20 miles of leaving Midas. I would never go back to those Bozos.

After seeing their exhaust work, can you imagine having them do your brakes.

[Roger V]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

Midas here have a reputation for asking for your first born for anything

My local muffler emporium re-flanged for free. I think they got a kick out of doing something different plus it didn't take much time. Now that I think about it they're less than two blocks from Midas which I didn't think to stop at!

[Mitch//pa]

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Originally Posted by Benson

FWIW:

A few years ago Chris Pelikan, the carb rebuilder guy, did a series of experiments on the causes of "vapor lock" and excessive heat under the hood using several cars and an infrared digital thermometer.

Vapor lock is also a condition where gasoline boils and creates vapor in the sediment bowl and the fuel line and so liquid gas can not get to the fuel bowl ... (if you do not believe in vapor lock)

1. One thing that he looked at was the use of the "inserts" in the manifold/ exhaust pipe junction.

He found VERY high manifold/pipe temperatures in the area on each side of the insert.

His conclusion was that the use of the insert created a restriction in the flow which raised the temperature excessively and reduced engine power.

2. He also found that old "$50 mufflers" with the NON Mandrel bends (where the diameter of the pipe is reduced in the bending process) had the same effect as using the insert.

The folks at Aires muffler found the same problem with the "non mandrel bends" in the cheap mufflers.

poor and misleading info