pressurized radiator?

[bigd1101]

Looking at both for the 1928 A. Brassworks. Same price, $625. Any thoughts? What is the shipping cost? I live in CNY.



http://www.thebrassworks.net/shop/Re...acdfd66f2ac207

[bigd1101]

I did a search on the Barn.....found my answer.

[katy]

Nothing wrong w/non-pressurized on a Model A, going pressurized adds potential problems to a system that was never designed for it.

[Bob Bidonde]

I would opt for the pressurized radiator because it conserves coolant, and gives another control over the operating temperature of the engine. The basic relationship is PV/T in State 1 must equal PV/T in State 2 for energy to be conserved.


The volume V is a constant, so the relationship becomes P/T.



Lets assume that you want to improve the efficiency of the engine for better gas mileage. To do this, lets raise the operating temperature of the engine from 160F into the neighborhood of 190F. So using conservation of energy, that is State 1 = State 2, thus 14.7 psi/160F=P/190F and solving for P we get P=17.5 psi. So raising the pressure about 3 psi produces an operating temperature of about 190F.



A 3 psi radiator cap and a 180F thermostat is what should get it done if you opt for the pressurized radiator.

[bigd1101]

Does anyone know the waiting time for one of the radiators? I'm just looking at at their "Modern efficient copper core design with 10 fins per inch" one.

[Benson]

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Not sure how a pressurized system saves coolant with a correctly setup radiator.

A correctly setup radiator does not lose coolant.

I have used the standard, unmodified Model A system for 56 years and 60,000 miles since 1962 ... never have to add coolant in year round driver!

Between '72 and '98 I drove 600,000 in modern cars for work ... did not have time to drive Model A more than 60,000.

40,000 between '62 and '67 in Model A as daily driver...

For the record, this car is driven at 65 to 70 MPH regularly. No cut down impellers, restrictors or such ...

I change anti freeze mixed with distilled water every 3 or 4 years or 15,000 miles or more.

I follow Service Bulletin page 450 closely when installing a new radiator. (new or re cored radiators are rarely setup to follow this SB page 450)

Then every once and while just for grins I check the level ... the level never changes for years at a time unless there is a leak.

[bigd1101]

I think I'll go with a regular rad........not real sure about Brassworks........after reading some posts on another thread.

[Chris Haynes]

I had a 10 fin core installed in my original radiator. I also had it pressurized. The good thing about having a closed system is that you can use waterless coolant so you won't have rust issues plus a much higher boiling point.

[bigd1101]

Just bought a Brassworks Radiator. Nice guy, Lee. Looks like a quality piece. I figured, why skimp on the part that can keep your A from melting down Here is the one i got..
http://www.thebrassworks.net/shop/Re...de8711e6dd4cc0

[eagle]

Originally Posted by Chris Haynes

I had a 10 fin core installed in my original radiator. I also had it pressurized. The good thing about having a closed system is that you can use waterless coolant so you won't have rust issues plus a much higher boiling point.

Why do you care about raising the boiling point? If it boils antifreeze its too hot anyway. If your cooling system is in good shape coolant shouldn't even get close to boiling, at least that's the way mine is.

[California Travieso]

Originally Posted by Chris Haynes

I had a 10 fin core installed in my original radiator. I also had it pressurized. The good thing about having a closed system is that you can use waterless coolant so you won't have rust issues plus a much higher boiling point.

Chris,

I believe a pressurized radiator is a good idea, especially in the Southwest, where it seems to me we are getting more days of 100 to 110 degrees every year. I assume adding a recovery tank to compensate for overflow would be a good idea also.

By the way, I drove over to Paso Robles one summer when we were on vacation in San Luis Obispo. I went over the Brassworks shop and it was over 100 degrees and he has no air conditioning in his shop so my wife stayed in the car with the air on.

He said if I bring it to him he would measure everything on my old radiator to make sure the new one would fit. I realize you may not be able do that if you live outside of California because of the cost of shipping your old radiator. I'm still deciding what I want and how much I can spend.

David Serrano

[old31]

Before you spend $800 on Brassworks. Do a search on Bergs.

Also, I agree with Benson 100%.

[bigd1101]

After some serious soul searching, I went with a closed system and recovery tank from Brassworks. They hand make them to order and Berg's was out of the range I wanted to spend and I didn't see a closed radiator option. No more spitting hot fluid out the top cap and no more fluid loss out the overflow seemed to be a good idea. I doubt a max of 4 psi will hurt the engine and if the head gasket can't take that, it needed replacing anyway.

With a recovery tank, a closed system would in fact save coolant unless you have some other overheating problem, then it finds it's way out from a prolonged boil over.



I'd say it's a 50/50 opinion on a pressurized system on an A here as I did a search through the archives. My car is not a show car and never will be so I'm going "modern" where you can't see it.....like the bovine heart valve they put in me 5 years ago

http://www.thebrassworks.net/shop/Re...7a143a0b3ea2c7

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Just as a FYI, some put an overflow tank on non-pressurized radiators. According to others it works well to catch/reuse coolant if a radiator is spill a little coolant.

Just added info in case you are not aware, not arguing your choice, either way is OK with me.