Oil pan removal in a 1936 pickup

[MadmanWilson]

Hey all. I just bought a 1936 ford pickup. I removed the plugin the oil pan and some nasty stuff came out of there, so before trying to get this to start I'd like to clean out the oil pan and check the screen out. Are there any specific steps that need to be done to drop the pan? I've ordered a manual but it isn't in yet.

[296 V8]

All you should need to do is
Remove starter
Unbolt the ball cup on the wishbone and let it hang down
May need to raise front of motor
Unbolt pan

[Mike in AZ]

welcome to the 'Barn....and if you can post pics, we love pics.....Mike

[MadmanWilson]

296: Thanks I'll give what you said a go on the oil pan.
Mike: Where do you folks usually post up pictures? I've got some of the truck I can get posted up.

[flat-v8]

Yes please post pics of your truck here! Just resize them on your PC, click Go Advanced, manage attachments, browse for the pics on your HDD, then upload!

[G.M.]

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The front counter weights on the crankshaft have to be down to get the pan off. G.M.

[36tbird]

You might want to order a pan gasket from a Best Gasket supplier for when you go back together. Their pan gasket is new material, not the old cork that Ford used. Clean the rails of the block where the pan bolts up and remove the gasket cork that goes around rear main. I used some hi-tack gasket cement to glue the gasket to the block, keep the other side that goes to the pan clean. Then install the new cork gasket strip on the rear main. You do this in that order because the cork goes over little tabs in the pan gasket. You'll understand when you see it. I use one piece front gaskets so I am not a 100% sure about the front rope gasket. I think the procedure is to soak them in oil for a day before you stick them in place.

Here's the part that might generate controversy here. I am borrowing a suggestion from the guys who re-use their intake manifold gaskets by just using grease on them to seal. I'm working on an engine right now where I have had to drop the pan to get to the oil pump and may have to again if the pump is not the problem. So after gluing down the pan gasket to the block, I am using grease on the gasket side that goes to the pan. In this way, if I have to drop the pan again, I think the pan gasket will stay intact. I tried this already and ran the engine. There were no leaks. Guess what, I think the oil pump I used is crap, so I will indeed be dropping the pan again. At that time I will learn if my theory of grease on one side of the gasket works OK.

[VeryTangled]

Hi Madman, welcome to the Forums!

If I may make a suggestion, if the oil pan is full of gunk, then it's at least possible that the valley under the intake is crapped up also. Might be worth taking a look. Somewhere recently someone posted some photos of one that was pretty ghastly even though the engine still ran.

G.M. your tip sounds like an important one, thanks once again for being helpful around here.

-VT/JeffH

[MadmanWilson]

Thanks all!

GM: Do I just need to crank the engine over until piston 1 is all the way up to do that? I think I read that in another post somewhere but not sure if it applies to this truck.

36tbird: Thanks for the advice. It'd be good if I had the gaskets ready so I don't have to wait on those once I get the pan off. As for which gaskets, it sounds like I need two gaskets - one is the pan gasket, another is a rope gasket?

[jrhaelig]

Definitely do not skip the recommendation to remove the intake and clean out that valley.

With the pan off get a cheap garden sprayer loaded with solvent, gas or diesel (choice varies with the size of your lug nuts and your proximity to open flame) Scoop out the lead infused goo then spray & brush & spray some more.....from the top and bottom.

Lube it up to prevent surface rust on the cleansed surfaces, button it up & drive on.

[Brendan]

I pulled the pan off my 36 pickup, it took me 3.5 hrs to get it off. you need to jack up the truck and get the weight off the axle, remove the wheals, exhaust manifold on the drivers side and crossover pipe. remove the fuel pump tower, generator, unbolt the motor mounts and jack up the motor as high as you can get it. then loosen the u bolts and take off the cup for the wishbone. also remove the starter motor. if I pulled out the front axle I think it would have been easier. but you can do it with out doing that. I put some sockets
under the motor mount brackets to get the motor as high as I could so I could get the jack out from under the truck. then you need to pull the wishbone as far as you can get it and wedge a block of wood in between the frame to get it down. their is a bolt on the top of the block by the starter motor that you cant see from the bottom. also you need to remove all four radiator hoses. then when you get every thing out of the way and unbolted you need to rotate the motor to clear the counter Wait I was able to put the pickup back together in about 2.5 hr good luck and it can be done I did it...Brendan

[36tbird]

Madman, http://www.bestgasket.com/pop_up_pic...rtNumber=26007
Everything pictured comes in the kit. Check out their website to find closest dealer or sometimes they are sold on the 'bay.

[Adam/Mill Valley CA]

There is a little booklet "1932-36 engine and chassis repair manual" which has reprints of service procedures for the early cars, sold by most major vendors as V-13. It has a detailed explanation of the procedure, which is as Brendan described it. Took me about the same length of time to get the pan off my '36 pickup also. Well worth doing, lots of gunk in the pan, and a leaky rear cork seal which had just disintegrated.

Adam

[MadmanWilson]

Thanks for all the hints guys. I started looking into doing this today. One question I had was this rod that runs through the oil pan and by the starter. It seems like it would be holding the pan up as well but I don't think you guys mentioned it. Seems to be held on by a bolt with a square hole in it.

I posted some pictures of the bolt that appears to be holding this rod and of where the rod runs through the oil pan near where the starter was.

I just wasn't sure if there was some tool that is needed to remove it or if lifting the engine up will allow me to slide the pan forward enough that it can stay where it is.

[36tbird]

If I were you, I would hit all the areas pictured with a pressure washer. After you did that you would see that the pan is below where the anti-chatter rods attach to the block.

[MadmanWilson]

Hah... you're right. There is so much dirt I couldn't tell what was what down there. Sheesh, sorry to bother you guys on that one!

[JM 35 Sedan]

I had a similar situation on a '35 coupe that I bought couple years ago. Even though I already knew the engine ran good, I decided to pull the complete engine so I could check everything over internally, and thoroughly clean the engine inside and out. After taking the pan off I found out that this was an LB engine that had been rebuilt years ago (0.030" over) with little or no wear ridge at top of cylinders, all bearings and journals look good. I plan to do the cleaning and put everything back together with all new gaskets. By the time you go through the hassle of just removing the pan, you could have the complete engine out to check and clean everything. JMO

[Brendan]

Originally Posted by 36tbird

If I were you, I would hit all the areas pictured with a pressure washer. After you did that you would see that the pan is below where the anti-chatter rods attach to the block.

you don't need to remove the anti chatter rods. only if you pull the motor. that looks like its going to be a dirty job I know that mine was

[Brendan]

Originally Posted by MadmanWilson

Hah... you're right. There is so much dirt I couldn't tell what was what down there. Sheesh, sorry to bother you guys on that one!

ask questions that's how you learn, I hate it when a guy says
"DO A SHERCH FIRST" just ask! the work I do I ask questions all the time. if you don't I think you wont to know about what you are doing

[MadmanWilson]

Thanks for the help guys! I got it dropped. Man, was it nasty. Attached some pics. I'll check out that valley under the intake manifold too.