The Ford Barn

1931flathead · 09-20-2018, 02:54 PM

I bought a new 6.0 head I been reading that you should have grade 8 studs and nuts

cause of the stock ones will not hold up to the higher compression cause they stretch out and don't keep there torque

CarlG · 09-20-2018, 03:13 PM

Try ARP studs.

1931flathead · 09-20-2018, 03:20 PM

I found them at vintage ford chrome moly

JRN1967 · 09-20-2018, 03:40 PM

I bought mine from Snyder's they were the correct length, there's one just a little longer that's for the distributor wire clamp.

Part# A-6064/66-HD

1931flathead · 09-20-2018, 09:41 PM

thanks I never seen them there most over looked them

Big hammer · 09-21-2018, 07:21 AM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

My engine builder said not needed, AER, Rich chuckled when I asked him.

Dave in MN · 09-21-2018, 08:18 AM

Snyder's installation instructions suggest 55 ftlbs of torque for both their 5.5 and 6.0 heads. I have been torqueing to this amount for the engines I send out of my shop and have not been having any problems with any gaskets. JMO: You do not need chrome moly studs and nuts to hold torque at 55 ftlbs.
Good Day!

MrBruce · 09-21-2018, 09:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dave in MN

Snyder's installation instructions suggest 55 ftlbs of torque for both their 5.5 and 6.0 heads. I have been torqueing to this amount for the engines I send out of my shop and have not been having any problems with any gaskets. JMO: You do not need chrome moly studs and nuts to hold torque at 55 ftlbs.
Good Day!

On a number of engines I've been using Chevy main bolts. They really look nice and they are suppose to hold more clamping load. They are the right length and my dad has built hundreds of engines with them.

Jim Brierley · 09-21-2018, 10:27 AM

ARP are the best, grade 8 are next but standard grade 5 are all that is needed. These can be bought at any good hardware store, or Snyders.

BILL WILLIAMSON · 09-22-2018, 09:13 AM

6.0 is NOT MUCH compression! Chiefs' NEW '49 Plymouth had 7.0 to 1 compression. Main thing is to RE-TORQUE the head nuts SEVERAL TIMES!
Bill W.

1931flathead · 09-22-2018, 11:01 AM

Why take chance with 80 year studs and nuts been took off and on how many times for 40.00 you can have new one how many head gaskets can you buy for 40.00

Dave in MN · 09-23-2018, 07:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1931flathead

Why take chance with 80 year studs and nuts been took off and on how many times for 40.00 you can have new one how many head gaskets can you buy for 40.00

I don't disagree with replacing old studs and nuts. I thought your original question was whether to use chrome moly or grade 8 studs and nuts. Most of us are saying the less expensive standard or "original style" studs and nuts are strong enough for the 6:1 head you plan to install.
Good Day!

Dick Steinkamp · 09-23-2018, 10:03 AM

Chevy's 365 HP 327 had 11/1 compression with standard (grade 5) head bolts. I think you're OK with standard on a 6/1 motor.

1931flathead · 09-23-2018, 11:39 AM

For 16.00 for chrome Molly over stock studs are worth it to me just to be on the safety side

holdover · 09-23-2018, 01:11 PM

As Said

"For 16.00 for chrome Molly over stock studs are worth it to me just to be on the safety side" Or any other head specific bolt from a quality vendor.

I would use new studs over 80+ yr old ones, not because they would be defective, but why take a chance. ARP is top quality for a price if you want to spend the extra money they will work fine. I use ARP bolts on any H-iPo builds I do, but bit of an over kill for a 6.0 model A head. The most important part is torque and re-torquing them. After all you are not building a nitro fueled supercharged monster...

09-20-2018, 02:54 PM	#1
1931flathead Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: central minn Posts: 1,025	head studs I bought a new 6.0 head I been reading that you should have grade 8 studs and nuts cause of the stock ones will not hold up to the higher compression cause they stretch out and don't keep there torque

09-20-2018, 03:13 PM	#2
CarlG Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Anchorage, Alaska Posts: 9,115	Re: head studs Try ARP studs. __________________ Alaskan A's Antique Auto Mushers of Alaska Model A Ford Club of America Model A Restorers Club Antique Automobile Club of America Mullins Owner's Club

09-20-2018, 03:20 PM	#3
1931flathead Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: central minn Posts: 1,025	Re: head studs I found them at vintage ford chrome moly

09-20-2018, 03:40 PM	#4
JRN1967 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: Monson, MA Posts: 166	Re: head studs I bought mine from Snyder's they were the correct length, there's one just a little longer that's for the distributor wire clamp. Part# A-6064/66-HD Last edited by JRN1967; 09-20-2018 at 03:42 PM. Reason: part #

09-20-2018, 09:41 PM	#5
1931flathead Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: central minn Posts: 1,025	Re: head studs thanks I never seen them there most over looked them

09-21-2018, 07:21 AM	#6
Big hammer Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Land of Lincoln Posts: 3,127	Re: head studs Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) My engine builder said not needed, AER, Rich chuckled when I asked him. __________________ Don't force it with a little hammer tap, tap, tap get a bigger hammer tap done

09-21-2018, 08:18 AM	#7
Dave in MN Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Jordan, MN Posts: 1,411	Re: head studs Snyder's installation instructions suggest 55 ftlbs of torque for both their 5.5 and 6.0 heads. I have been torqueing to this amount for the engines I send out of my shop and have not been having any problems with any gaskets. JMO: You do not need chrome moly studs and nuts to hold torque at 55 ftlbs. Good Day!

09-21-2018, 10:27 AM	#9
Jim Brierley Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Temecula, CA Posts: 4,085	Re: head studs ARP are the best, grade 8 are next but standard grade 5 are all that is needed. These can be bought at any good hardware store, or Snyders.

09-22-2018, 09:13 AM	#10
BILL WILLIAMSON Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: FRESNO, CA Posts: 12,560	Re: head studs 6.0 is NOT MUCH compression! Chiefs' NEW '49 Plymouth had 7.0 to 1 compression. Main thing is to RE-TORQUE the head nuts SEVERAL TIMES! Bill W. __________________ "THE ASSISTANT GURU OF STUFF"

09-22-2018, 11:01 AM	#11
1931flathead Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: central minn Posts: 1,025	Re: head studs Why take chance with 80 year studs and nuts been took off and on how many times for 40.00 you can have new one how many head gaskets can you buy for 40.00

09-23-2018, 10:03 AM	#13
Dick Steinkamp Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: Bellingham, WA Posts: 1,163	Re: head studs Chevy's 365 HP 327 had 11/1 compression with standard (grade 5) head bolts. I think you're OK with standard on a 6/1 motor. __________________ All steel from pedal to wheel

09-23-2018, 11:39 AM	#14
1931flathead Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: central minn Posts: 1,025	Re: head studs For 16.00 for chrome Molly over stock studs are worth it to me just to be on the safety side

09-23-2018, 01:11 PM	#15
holdover Senior Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: SW Virginia near the Blue ridge Parkway Posts: 674	Re: head studs As Said "For 16.00 for chrome Molly over stock studs are worth it to me just to be on the safety side" Or any other head specific bolt from a quality vendor. I would use new studs over 80+ yr old ones, not because they would be defective, but why take a chance. ARP is top quality for a price if you want to spend the extra money they will work fine. I use ARP bolts on any H-iPo builds I do, but bit of an over kill for a 6.0 model A head. The most important part is torque and re-torquing them. After all you are not building a nitro fueled supercharged monster...