1933 can't start after recent restart

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by DavidG

I second Charlie's advice, but do not start checking your brake system at the rear wheels. Start at the front where the hub and drum assemblies are easy to remove and replace. Pull them off one at a time and study what you see against what is shown in the illustration above and that in your service bulletins. Disconnect the brake rod where it attaches to the operating arm behind the brake backing plates and move it back and forth so that you see how the brakes operate and how the various parts relate to one another.

After you are confident that you understand how the brakes function, check the linings for both wear and contamination from grease or oil. Check also to see if the wearing surface on the inside of the brake drums is scored or pitted. If the linings are contaminated or worn down so that the rivet heads are no longer completely below the outer surface they need to be replaced. If they drums are scored or pitted, they should be turned down to a smooth surface (this has to be be done by someone who knows what they are doing as there is limit as to how far the drums can be turned down before they need to be replaced.) Check everything else exposed and attached to the brake backing plate for excessive wear as mechanical brakes can be good brakes, but only if all of the components are free of excessive wear. Now do the same thing for the other front wheel and only then tackle the rear wheels as removing the hubs can be a challenge as Charlie is suggesting.

Once you have checked out all four wheels, check for wear in the clevis pins (one on each end of each brake rod) and in the holes in which each clevis pin is inserted. Check for play in the brake cross shaft assembly on the center cross member (where all four brake rods attach). Wear in the cross shaft bushings is a common occurrence and its presence means that you will never get all four brakes working with the same effort until that wear is eliminated by replacing those bushings (there are better substitutes available today for the bushing material that Ford used originally).

Check for wear on all of clevis pins and their holes in the various arms on the cross shaft and on the rods to the brake pedal and hand brake. Replace any and all that are worn excessively. If the holes in the arms are worn excessively, they can be welded up and re-drilled to their original diameter or if only slightly worn drilled oversize to be used with new over-sized clevis pins (personally, I recommend the former and not the latter cure for wear).

That's enough of a to-do list to start with.

Thanks for great info.
I will slowly learn..before I take anything apart.
It should be interesting to see how they work.
This is a great time learning about this fine old machine.
I love it.
Thanks for all your help and guidance...I would be dead in the water without your help.

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by Charlie Stephens

This has probably already been covered but buy a good rear hub puller (or arrange to borrow one). The reproduction KR Wilson puller advertised in the V8 times comes to mind. Get a puller that pulls from the snout of the hub. If the hubs are properly installed (tight) and you try to use a cheap puller you desk damaging expensive parts.

Charlie Stephens

Thanks charlie....
It is fun discovering things about this great old car.
I greatly appreciate your help.

[Mike in AZ]

have been following this from the first post....Frank, congrats on "hanging in there" and doing it yourself and getting your car back up and running. Thumbs up to everyone who contributed knowledge and instructions to help Frank. Very cool ....Mike

[CC33]

Originally Posted by FrankWest

So you take the wheel off and then the break components are under the cover. The rust covers visible from under the car are not to be monkeyed with, right.

That would be called a drum or hub. Order one of the Hub Pullers seen advertised in the V8 Times. They run about $200. Put the car up on good quality jack stands and do all 4 wheels. New brake spring kits and do dads will be in order. Check your brakes rods to make sure they are straight and have no bends in them.

[CC33]

1933 Brake Pics

[FrankWest]

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Originally Posted by CC33

1933 Brake Pics

Great photos! Thanks for taking the time to help me.
I really appreciate it.

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by DavidG

Frank,

You've got to start acquiring some printed reference material. As you already know that while this forum is very helpful, that help is by the spoonful. The reprinted '32 service bulletins will inform you well about your brakes and how to adjust them (the '32 and '33-'34 brake system are virtually identical in all respects and in terms of what you you need to know about your brakes they are completely identical).

Thanks so much for the diagrams and photos.....Great help.

[CC33]

Frank,
I don't know what condition your fuel tank is in, but cutting in an inline fuel filter under the drivers rear wheel might be a good option for you. Some say to just put one under the hood. However I hate when you open the hood on a classic car and see inline fuel filters. Plus there is a safety reason for not placing them there.
You would need a small tube cutter, some rubber fuel line, clamps, and a filter. By placing it near the rear wheel, it is easy to replace and is unseen.
I have 2 spare filters you can have. PM me and I will make it happen.

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by CC33

Frank,
I don't know what condition your fuel tank is in, but cutting in an inline fuel filter under the drivers rear wheel might be a good option for you. Some say to just put one under the hood. However I hate when you open the hood on a classic car and see inline fuel filters. Plus there is a safety reason for not placing them there.
You would need a small tube cutter, some rubber fuel line, clamps, and a filter. By placing it near the rear wheel, it is easy to replace and is unseen.
I have 2 spare filters you can have. PM me and I will make it happen.

Thanks a million for your offer..

[FrankWest]

The car is still running.
I am installing the tail lights and plan to register it this week...
Trying to get a 1933 license plate that the DMV will accept.
I have a brief video of the car starting but it is 30 mgs and they won't let me post it on here.

[FrankWest]

The car starts up fine each day...Once I complete the tail lights wiring I plan to register the car with New antique car plates and then change these over to real 1933 antique plates that the DMV will accept.

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by DavidG

Frank,

You've got to start acquiring some printed reference material. As you already know that while this forum is very helpful, that help is by the spoonful. The reprinted '32 service bulletins will inform you well about your brakes and how to adjust them (the '32 and '33-'34 brake system are virtually identical in all respects and in terms of what you you need to know about your brakes they are completely identical).

This seems to be a good book for the brakes.. SEE ATTACHED PHOTO

It has 5 pages of drawings and gives measurements in setting up the spacings

No wonder the book was hard to understand...I was reading it upside down

[FrankWest]

Tail lights are installed and wired and working perfectly ...brake lights too.
I bought these wire clips from ray Naschiwitz and was able to clip the wires down except had problem using the clips alone the cross member running along the fuel tank. What are the usually attachment places for those clips?

[DavidG]

The tail lamp crossover wire clips were attached to the front lip of the fuel tank, not on the rear cross member.

[FrankWest]

Registered the car , Now ..Must wait form plates to arrive then will go for test run. Should I pour Champagne on the front fender before taking her out? Or will that take the paint off...Remember what do once said about Pepsi cola taking the paint of a car!

[Mart]

A small bottle of mineral water should do the trick.

Congrats on getting it to this stage.

Mart.

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by Mart

A small bottle of mineral water should do the trick.

Congrats on getting it to this stage.

Mart.

Thanks alot Mart!
Coming from a guy with your mechanical genius, it means a lot.
I will take some photo of the car on the road, and post them.

[dean333]

You have to wait for the plates just to take a test ride??? I'd be going nuts. Drive it!!

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by FrankWest

Thanks for great info.
I will slowly learn..before I take anything apart.
It should be interesting to see how they work.
This is a great time learning about this fine old machine.
I love it.
Thanks for all your help and guidance...I would be dead in the water without your help.

Looking for woven brake linings
checked Mac's
http://www.macsautoparts.com/store/b...ton-truck.html

They says these are for rear brakes???
Does the same size fit on the front drums too??

[JSeery]

Did you notice that the link you provided is for "Ford 1 Ton Truck" brake linings?

This might be of interest to you: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=137156

The linings for a 33 are B 2021-B