Drive shaft roller bearing question?

[Ed Saniewski]

Dose the roller bearing drop into the sleeve, or do I need to tap it in with a hammer? It will go with slight resistance.
Do I pack it with grease before installing it on to the shaft? Not that it will take much grease, I don't see how a lot of grease can get down to the bearing through the slit in the bearing sleeve.
Thanks, Ed Saniewski

[P.S.]

The roller bearing will just slip right in assuming you got the sleeve's dimple into the dimpled place in the torque tube.

Yes, pack it with grease first.

[Ed Saniewski]

I got the dimple lined up with the hole, so if the bearing drops in the sleeve, dose that mean it should be able to rotate around in place?

[Joe K]

It should be able to be "titrivated" by hand or by reaching in with a punch or awl. If tight, then check that you have free motion of the axle within the bearing.

This might be hard as likely you already have the pinion/bearing installed in the banjo/pumpkin/whatever.

Or you might try unbolting the torque tube from the banjo, turn the outside and verify relatively free motion between the torque tube and a stationary drive shaft.

I can see that replacement drive shafts, bearings, sleeve inconsistencies in manufacturing might make the fit a bit tighter than you may have found it originally.

Relatively free motion between the two parts is what you hope to achieve. Tight may be good since you can always remove material on the drive shaft in a lathe.

Joe K

[Ron W]

When I did my driveline, the new race was not round after being correctly inserted. I ended up re-useing the good original. Ron W

[redmodelt]

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Plug for Brattons, the drive shaft bearing sleeves we have been getting from them are top notch in my OP.
After it was explained to me by one of the posters here I no longer squeeze the race in a vice and wrap a wire around to install. I install the seal then set the race in the hole with the dimple lined up and use a socket that's just larger then the diameter of the race and tap it into place. I then use a brass drift to get down the last little bit.

[P.S.]

That's a good point- You DID remember to push the seal down before putting the sleeve in, correct? And the seal goes with the rubber lip side facing the front of the torque tube.

Ask me how I know....

[Ed Saniewski]

The seal is in place, and the sleeve is all the way down and the dimple is in the hole where it belongs, I just wondered if tapping the bearing in place was correct. I put the bearing in the freezer and will check if that small shrinking makes a difference, but I think I will remove the torque tube from the banjo and try to reset the sleeve. Thanks for the help, I will let you know what I find, Ed Saniewski

[Tom Wesenberg]

I agree with trying to reseat the sleeve. I've never had to tap the bearing in place.

[bobv]

We also had one that was difficult. Removed the torque tube to banjo bolts to get some wiggle room then it slipped right in.