best oil pan gasket rubber or cork

[harleynut]

Almost ready to install oil pan. I read the threads in "search" and come away more confused than ever. Instructions with cork from Snyder's say don't use any other sealer with gasket. Instructions in Search link from a engine builder in Washington say I need Permatex aviation Form -A- Gasket, Permatex Ultra Copper, and contact cement. Is a rubber gasket better than cork? If it is, where do I get it? thoughts please

[loubob]

Paper gaskets w/Permatex #2

[bunnyc]

I just changed mine a couple days ago. If you're doing it with the engine in the car, the best thing I can say is at least the old gasket scrapings won't fall into your engine.
I used a combination of two sets. Cork on the sides, glued in place. The Teflon coated front rope seal and rear gasket from the Snyder's "improved" gasket set.
Permatex #2 on the pan flanges and the corners where the instructions you mentioned called for Ultra Copper.
Get the tool to hold the oil pump in place. Disconnect the battery. Turn the front wheels all the way to the right.
My oil pan has a round plate under the oil pump. That was a blessing when it can time to install the oil pan. I put it on after.
Mine doesn't leak at all; success!

[harleynut]

Thanks Bunny........sounds like a plan to me.....and yes, engine still in the car

[Dollar Bill]

I have found the attached to be very helpful.

Cork is thicker and more prone to squeeze out if over tightened.

Not aware of rubber pan gasket - But I have seen paper ones.

Permatex Form-A-Gasket # 1 (Hard Setting) on the pan and their Ultra Black Silicone Gasket Maker at bearing/pan junctions works for me

[CT Jack]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

A paper gasket works best. Place Permatex gasket cement at a couple of points on pan surface to hold gasket in position. Take (4) 5/16 x 2" long fully threaded screws and cut heads off. Insert (2) of the cut screws on each side of block. These screws will help guide the pan into position and can also be used to temporarily hold the pan away from the block by installing nuts. This helps when engaging the rear cork gasket.

[V4F]

rubberized cork from berts .

[Joe K]

Originally Posted by loubob

Paper gaskets w/Permatex #2

Yes.

The problem with Perm No. 2 is that it takes a while to "stiffen up."

You are effectively "greasing" a gasket by putting Perm No. 2 on it and then buttoning down the cover plate (or pan or valve cover.)

I myself fell prey to this when I had the valve chamber cover off on my 1980 Diesel Rabbit. Unbeknownst to me, the gasket was rubber, was designed fairly flexible, and was made so it fit the "recesses" in the block and cover which are designed to hold the gasket during torquing - which can only occur down to the shoulder on the bolts and is not designed to put anything but cursory pressure on the gasket. The cover was effectively "metal to metal" and the gasket a sort of "engineered afterthought." The VW gasket was designed to take on a certain compression, but no more. If you do the gasket "squirms" out of the recess.

And Perm No. 2 increases this tendency. I found the issue 3 miles down the road when the engine had "LOW OIL LIGHT" and I spewed 4 quarts of oil all over the road and the underside of my car.

What screwed it up was me "greasing" both sides of the gasket and the recess - effectively filling the recess and giving, no, ENCOURAGING the gasket the ability to squirm.

I guess on the Model A oil pan I might use either rubber or cork gaskets with Permatex "Gasket Tack" spray - and thereby anchor the gasket to one or both of the mating surfaces. But not Perm No. 2.

I like Perm No. 2 for the oil pan gasket because Perm No. 2 seals well the "three component juncture" at the rear main area. But this sort of limits your choice of gasket.

One does have to watch where you apply the Perm No. 2 around the rear main lest you fill the slinger cavity there.

Joe K

[john charlton]

To hold the oil pump in place thread a suitable plastic cable tie through one pan bolt hole at the side of the oil pump location .Put the tie around the back of the oil pump stalk and up through the other bolt hole on the other side . Pull the cable tie tight and the pump will be securely held up in place . Engage the other bolts and when you have a suitable gap snip one leg of the tie and pull the tie clear then bolt up the pan,job done . Using a bolt in the tapered hole to hold up the pump is not good as the bolt will not be tapered and can damage the block bolt hole . Just my two pennies worth ( same as cents but older !!!)

John in hot humid Suffolk County England .