Squealing engine

[stewgee]

Hey ya'll, (I'm from Oklahoma what can I say) as I posted before, I just reinstalled the engine in my 30 A after a complete gasket/seal replacement short of the head gasket. I did not go into the belly of the beast, so to speak, just a clean up and new gaskets. She was running great before just leaking out the rear pretty bad. She starts up just fine but has a very loud intermittent squeal and the smell of rubber. Rebuilt the water pump, checked the generator, the belt. All of those seem to be ok. Took the belt off and she still squeals. Anyone have any ideas what might be going on? Help would be appreciated.

[dansluck]

Did you grease the through-out bearing? Can be done thru plate on bell housing under floor mat and upper floor board.

[GRutter]

Did you replace the seal around the front crank pulley? If it's a seal that's causing the squealing, that could be the culprit. That should be the only place where a seal actually is rubbing against anything rotating, once you've eliminated the water pump and generator by removing the belt.

Did you do anything to attempt to stop the rear main from leaking, such as installing any kind of rubber after market seal?

Did you check the tube on the rear main cap?

But could be other issues, such as clutch throwout bearing or pilot bearing. Squeal yes, Rubber Smell No. Is there any change in the sound by depressing the clutch?

[Smog Tech]

Had the same squeal with my engine. Spray the front crank seal with oil and squeal would go away, then return after a few hours running. Replaced with modern seal, no squeal and no leak.

[quickchange]

After trying the above can be dry dissy shaft , belt slip , use candle wax or wd40 on belt,

[Y-Blockhead]

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Check if the crank pully is rubbing on the front cross member. Mine was making a screeching noise after I installed it and while the engine was running I tightened down on the front mount nut from underneath and it stopped. This was after I check a lot of other things.

[stewgee]

Thanks everyone for all these ideas to look at. I'll work on them and let you guys know the outcome in a day or so. Stew

[stewgee]

Just a after thought. If the fingers on the clutch were not adjusted correctly could this be the problem? I installed a new clutch disc, pressure plate and throwout bearing. I haven't tried pushing the clutch pedal in to see if it stops. I haven't attempted to drive the car because of the squeal and rubber smell. I plan to do the clutch check thing today. Stew

[TerryO]

I wouldn't expect a rubber smell from the clutch...clutch smell maybe...


TerryO

[stewgee]

Thanks for that Terry O

[Bob Bidonde]

A common and loud squeal occurs when the camshaft plunger in the timing cover is not lubricated when assembling an engine. If you had the front timing cover off, this may be the culprit. This squeal will go away as motor oil fogs into the timing gear cavity.

[Will N]

Thinking outside the box here... but a squeal might also be a vacuum leak. Check if the carb and intake manifolds are bolted on tightly. That doesn't explain the burnt oil smell, but they may be unrelted.

[katy]

I had a squeak, squeak, squeak coming from the front motor mount where it goes through the front crossmember, no rubber smell though. Took a while to locate it, a shot of oil cured it.

[stewgee]

Update on the squealing engine noise. It appears that it was the distributor. After resealing the engine I neglected to oil the distributor shaft. Never crossed my mind that I needed to. After oiling it through the oiler the squeal is gone, however I am still having issues with timing. I'm working on it. Thanks everyone for all the help. Stew

[J Franklin]

A dry distributor shaft can wear the bushings and cause slop that will affect timing/running. Check for looseness shaft to bushings.

[quickchange]

So as the winner when do I receive my prize ?? Hot & dry in NZ

[Jacksonlll]

When that happens, I have seen it get so hot that the cam melts the point arm rubbing block and closes up the points.