The Ford Barn

1955cj5 · 10-12-2017, 02:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wingski

The car came with the dual Tillotsons, and the previous owner never got it running for more than a minute or so. I have the original Zenith and manifold and both are in good shape, but I’d like to get this thing running with the Tillotsons to see if they actually add 10 hp. If you really feel that this is a carb problem, I can put the old Zenith back on. Those Tillotsons look really good, but are worthless if they won’t give me a smooth running engine.

Mike

You will have to get both carbs working together if you want it to run.

Blocking one carb off does not mean it will run on the other.

Even though the manifold may have a cross-over tube that is more for balance than to allow it to run on one carb.

I have a dual carb MGA and if one carb drops off for whatever reason it will just barely run on the other if at all. It too has a cross-over tube between the carbs.

Craggles · 10-12-2017, 03:12 PM

The condenser is a good point, they can do strange things. Have you checked you are getting a bright blue spark from your coil, I would check all four plugs. I assume once it is starting you are moving the spark rod hitting the accelerator and what effect does that have - it could be too far retarded. By pulling the choke this makes the motor pull fuel into the motor and why I suggested an air leak but it also helps the motor pull it down from the tank which would indicate a restriction or float issue. Dual carbs do change the problem, have you gone through the process with tuning these idle and idle mixtures. Are you sure your cam was set correctly, maybe do a compression test and see how it lines up with the distributor.

mantta · 10-12-2017, 03:31 PM

You said turned to #1 points just closed. You want it so the points are just opening with the spark fully retarded.

1crosscut · 10-12-2017, 03:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Magicbox51

Maybe that would be a good starting point just to see if the problem can be isolated to the fuel/carburetor system.

I agree. Put it back to stock with the original carburetor and manifold and get it running well that way. Then you can tinker with a different set up. Too many variables this way trying to get a car to run for the "first" time.

JBill · 10-12-2017, 03:37 PM

That doesn't look like any Tillotson I've ever seen, but they might have made carbs for the Model A other than the Model X.

William Kelchner · 10-12-2017, 03:44 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I've had numerous problems with my machine, would run for a few minutes, then it would not run at all. Me, I found out I know nothing about the car despite tinkering with it for 10 years - it runs ok now and I swear it is because I took the advice given to me here on the forum by more than one - "most carb problems are electrical!"

I replaced the distributor!

700rpm · 10-12-2017, 05:05 PM

You left out very important info in your initial post. It is hard to give relevant advice when we don't have all the facts and don't know what your setup is. As George says, two carbs changes everything, and two Tillies complicates the problem even further. But I'll take some blame for assuming we were dealing with a stock system. Messing with Henry's engineering always runs the risk of problems, especially before you are familiar with how the car runs stock. Take the dual carbs off and install your stock manifolds and Zenith.

George Miller · 10-12-2017, 06:32 PM

Two carbs can be a big problem dialing them in. It is not as easy as bolting on two carbs. The manifold makes a difference, carbs also. It is not that easy to get them to work right on a stock engine. My advice is go back to stock, get it running right, then try out your dual set up. You might be better off with a B carb and a bored out intake.

abachman3 · 10-13-2017, 10:23 AM

The picture looks like a Marvel Schrebler... not a Tillotson... (for what it's worth).

wingski · 10-13-2017, 10:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by abachman3

The picture looks like a Marvel Schrebler... not a Tillotson... (for what it's worth).

Thanks, I'll look up the Marvel carb. I've been told that Marvel carbs were pretty good carbs, and if I can find info about them maybe I can get these things to work eventually.

abachman3 · 10-14-2017, 03:51 PM

Several of my fellow club members and I all use Marvel carbs. Renners Corners makes parts and will rebuild the carbs for you.

10-12-2017, 03:12 PM	#22
Craggles Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: Queensland Posts: 9	Re: starts but won't run The condenser is a good point, they can do strange things. Have you checked you are getting a bright blue spark from your coil, I would check all four plugs. I assume once it is starting you are moving the spark rod hitting the accelerator and what effect does that have - it could be too far retarded. By pulling the choke this makes the motor pull fuel into the motor and why I suggested an air leak but it also helps the motor pull it down from the tank which would indicate a restriction or float issue. Dual carbs do change the problem, have you gone through the process with tuning these idle and idle mixtures. Are you sure your cam was set correctly, maybe do a compression test and see how it lines up with the distributor.

10-12-2017, 03:31 PM	#23
mantta Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Keweenaw Bay, MI (Michigan's Upper Peninsula) Posts: 218	Re: starts but won't run You said turned to #1 points just closed. You want it so the points are just opening with the spark fully retarded.

10-12-2017, 03:37 PM	#25
JBill Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 702	Re: starts but won't run That doesn't look like any Tillotson I've ever seen, but they might have made carbs for the Model A other than the Model X.

10-12-2017, 03:44 PM	#26
William Kelchner Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Warrenton, Va. Posts: 459	Re: starts but won't run Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I've had numerous problems with my machine, would run for a few minutes, then it would not run at all. Me, I found out I know nothing about the car despite tinkering with it for 10 years - it runs ok now and I swear it is because I took the advice given to me here on the forum by more than one - "most carb problems are electrical!" I replaced the distributor!

10-12-2017, 05:05 PM	#27
700rpm Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Portland, Oregon Posts: 5,902	Re: starts but won't run You left out very important info in your initial post. It is hard to give relevant advice when we don't have all the facts and don't know what your setup is. As George says, two carbs changes everything, and two Tillies complicates the problem even further. But I'll take some blame for assuming we were dealing with a stock system. Messing with Henry's engineering always runs the risk of problems, especially before you are familiar with how the car runs stock. Take the dual carbs off and install your stock manifolds and Zenith. __________________ Ray Horton, Portland, OR As you go through life, keep your eye on the donut, not the hole.

10-12-2017, 06:32 PM	#28
George Miller Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: NC Posts: 2,975	Re: starts but won't run Two carbs can be a big problem dialing them in. It is not as easy as bolting on two carbs. The manifold makes a difference, carbs also. It is not that easy to get them to work right on a stock engine. My advice is go back to stock, get it running right, then try out your dual set up. You might be better off with a B carb and a bored out intake.

10-13-2017, 10:23 AM	#29
abachman3 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Western Springs, IL Posts: 323	Re: starts but won't run The picture looks like a Marvel Schrebler... not a Tillotson... (for what it's worth).

10-14-2017, 03:51 PM	#31
abachman3 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Western Springs, IL Posts: 323	Re: starts but won't run Several of my fellow club members and I all use Marvel carbs. Renners Corners makes parts and will rebuild the carbs for you.