The Ford Barn

Rebel Sympathy · 08-15-2012, 01:30 PM

Howdy, Boys:

Let's say you had a very low mileage, original '39 sedan with a lot of clutch chatter. And let's say you tightened the chatter rods. And let's say you tightened the motor mount and tranny mount nuts. And let's say you checked the rear shackles and spring mount bolts for tightness. And let's say you then replaced the motor mounts and tranny mounts. And let's say the #!%@!!! car is still chattering badly as ever. And let's say you went into the house and got drunk. And let's say you finally conceded that you need to pull the engine and resurface the flywheel and replace the clutch disc and pressure plate........

What brand of clutch would be the best choice? I know some aftermarket clutches tend to chatter more than others. I'd sure like to get the best brand available. Your knowledge and experience is valuable.

Much obliged,

Mike

Ed Pitts · 08-15-2012, 02:24 PM

Before doing that, you might want to put the bumper against a tree, rev the engine and slip the clutch to see if you can burn off the oil or grease that is on the clutch disc. Ed

hardtimes · 08-15-2012, 02:50 PM

Hey Mike,
Diaphram pressure plate....I'm assumeing that you are speaking of this when you say 'brand of clutch'. This type is used in modern iron and available/reliable/strong and can be adapted to your application..JMO.

41LjH · 08-15-2012, 04:16 PM

contact early V8 Ford in South Carolina. I have their Pressure Plate behind my 8BA no chatter at all.

http://www.earlyford.com

jack39nyc · 08-15-2012, 04:58 PM

I have a 39 with a 59 ab motor guys here told me fort wayne clutch american made call them very helpful their phone # is 800 258 8243
best to you Jack

jack in san diego · 08-15-2012, 05:50 PM

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My suggestion would be to contact a local clutch rebuilding company, take them your pressure plate and clutch and have them make them like new. it worked for me. Jack in San Diego

rotorwrench · 08-15-2012, 05:51 PM

Fort Wayne Clutch is a rebuilder that is highly experienced with the early clutches. They can rebuild your clutch or possibly exchange a set with you. Mine always turn around in less than 2-weeks on a rebuild but my stuff is later Mercury Borg & Beck type so they don't carry the cores on those. If you have a decent machine shop to do the flywheel, your hopefully back to clutch engagements that won't rattle your teeth.

ken ct · 08-15-2012, 07:16 PM

Fort Wayne Clutch. FW indiana. ken ct the best

Rebel Sympathy · 08-15-2012, 07:37 PM

Thanks, guys. Ft. Wayne it is....

Mike

Rebel Sympathy · 08-16-2012, 01:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ed Pitts

Before doing that, you might want to put the bumper against a tree, rev the engine and slip the clutch to see if you can burn off the oil or grease that is on the clutch disc. Ed

Thanks, Ed. But, I cannot help but wonder what I'd then do the next time oil gets on the clutch again. Afterall, I will not have fixed the source of the oil. And, by then, my original 33k flywheel will have been scorched until it was "blued" by heat, not to mention the heat cracks and scoring. I just cannot do that to this car..... I appreciate your willingness to offer helpful suggestions, however.

Mike

1931 flamingo · 08-16-2012, 02:23 PM

HOW ABOUT TAKING THE CLUTCH INSP PLATE (ON THE TRANNY) OFF AND SPRAYING A CAN OF BRAKE KLEEN IN THERE?? nOTHING TO LOSE IF IT'S OILED UP. jmo
Sorry about the caps.
I've also done the immoveable object deal (32 coupe, 55 olds, 39 tranny)
Paul in CT

37 Coupe · 08-17-2012, 12:51 PM

I have always beeen lucky and found Genuine Ford NOS or rebuilt clutch parts. Bob Selzam in New Jersey may still have everything new and Genuine. From all the prior feedback for years on old Fordbarn and new I suppose I would also try Fort Wayne next but I still bet your problem is not the clutch itself but something is not as new,motor mounts would be the first. Seems if it was a true clutch problem it would be slipping more than chattering. A local street rod/old car shop has had an ongoing issue with a 1940 Ford 85 hp car clutch and throwout bearing,all from one of the well known vendors,all China made and junk ,bearing went right away and sounds like clutch just does not engage. Whether they listened to me about American made and Fort Wayne I don't know,this shop is not Flathead Friendly so they are probably lining up their usual fix a "crate" garbage truck engine. Couple of us flathead guys hang around this shop for a reason,like buzzards, scored a 59AB awhile back with a Merc crank.

rotorwrench · 08-17-2012, 05:54 PM

There may be some part of the pressure plate or disk that is not manufactured or machined correctly or some form of warpage. Proper adjustment of the release fingers can make a difference. Even a worn pilot bearing in the flywheel with associated main input shaft bearing looseness can have an affect.

Rebel Sympathy · 08-17-2012, 05:55 PM

Thanks, 37 Coupe. All good advice. I'm replacing the motormounts first. Then, if necessary, I'm going further......

Neat sign, by the way. No doubt, very rare, I'm sure. I love it.

Mike

Karl Wolf · 08-17-2012, 09:50 PM

The release fingers on one (used) I installed were the problem... Should have bolted it to a flywheel (out of the car) and measured the finger height, to see if they were equal... I drove my AV8 for a while knowing that this was the problem- the thought of taking it apart made it tolerable- barely
Karl

columbiA · 08-18-2012, 12:54 AM

The chatter may not be in the clutch at all.If the splined coupling and/or splines are worn on DS or U-joint is worn,you will get chatter.In fact any extra slack any where in drive line will produce chatter as will a soft trans mount.

Gumpy · 08-19-2012, 01:04 PM

Sounds like you are thinking this out...I had a simular problem with chatter....I used the wrong pressure plate bolts on mine...I would recommend geniune henry shoulder bolts I found a set laying around i decided to have my flywheel surfaced and lightened at the same time....I found with the wrong bolts the pressure plate was waffle-ing and not layin flat...only when i put the proper bolts in did it perform properly....I would take 1931 flamingo's suggestion first....I also used a geniune ford tractor pressure plate and disk on mine it worked good

Rascal · 08-21-2012, 12:40 AM

i find that if the trans input shaft splines are dry & the splines in the middle of the
clutch driven plate are dry , then often you get a constant shudder.
i would go with FLAMINGO & get the trans inspection cover off and get some spray
lube down on those splines & so what if you get a little on the outside edges of the plate , it will burn-evaporate off . go for it.

08-15-2012, 01:30 PM	#1
Rebel Sympathy Senior Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: North Alabama Posts: 159	'39 Clutch Question Howdy, Boys: Let's say you had a very low mileage, original '39 sedan with a lot of clutch chatter. And let's say you tightened the chatter rods. And let's say you tightened the motor mount and tranny mount nuts. And let's say you checked the rear shackles and spring mount bolts for tightness. And let's say you then replaced the motor mounts and tranny mounts. And let's say the #!%@!!! car is still chattering badly as ever. And let's say you went into the house and got drunk. And let's say you finally conceded that you need to pull the engine and resurface the flywheel and replace the clutch disc and pressure plate........ What brand of clutch would be the best choice? I know some aftermarket clutches tend to chatter more than others. I'd sure like to get the best brand available. Your knowledge and experience is valuable. Much obliged, Mike __________________ **"There is no 'normal life'; there's just life." - Doc Holliday from the film Tombstone**

08-15-2012, 02:24 PM	#2
Ed Pitts Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Irving, Texas Posts: 598	Re: '39 Clutch Question Before doing that, you might want to put the bumper against a tree, rev the engine and slip the clutch to see if you can burn off the oil or grease that is on the clutch disc. Ed

08-15-2012, 02:50 PM	#3
hardtimes Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: South California Posts: 6,188	Re: '39 Clutch Question Hey Mike, Diaphram pressure plate....I'm assumeing that you are speaking of this when you say 'brand of clutch'. This type is used in modern iron and available/reliable/strong and can be adapted to your application..JMO.

08-15-2012, 04:16 PM	#4
41LjH Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: NW North Carolina Posts: 461	Re: '39 Clutch Question contact early V8 Ford in South Carolina. I have their Pressure Plate behind my 8BA no chatter at all. http://www.earlyford.com __________________ 3 pedals, 3 gears, no valve-covers.. *Now THAT* is a hot rod** !! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZmwwB34vxJE

08-15-2012, 04:58 PM	#5
jack39nyc Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Brooklyn NY Posts: 38	Re: '39 Clutch Question I have a 39 with a 59 ab motor guys here told me fort wayne clutch american made call them very helpful their phone # is 800 258 8243 best to you Jack

08-15-2012, 05:50 PM	#6
jack in san diego Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: El Cajon CA Posts: 73	Re: '39 Clutch Question Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) My suggestion would be to contact a local clutch rebuilding company, take them your pressure plate and clutch and have them make them like new. it worked for me. Jack in San Diego

08-15-2012, 05:51 PM	#7
rotorwrench Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 16,425	Re: '39 Clutch Question Fort Wayne Clutch is a rebuilder that is highly experienced with the early clutches. They can rebuild your clutch or possibly exchange a set with you. Mine always turn around in less than 2-weeks on a rebuild but my stuff is later Mercury Borg & Beck type so they don't carry the cores on those. If you have a decent machine shop to do the flywheel, your hopefully back to clutch engagements that won't rattle your teeth.

08-15-2012, 07:16 PM	#8
ken ct BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: stratford,ct Posts: 5,971	Re: '39 Clutch Question Fort Wayne Clutch. FW indiana. ken ct the best

08-15-2012, 07:37 PM	#9
Rebel Sympathy Senior Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: North Alabama Posts: 159	Re: '39 Clutch Question Thanks, guys. Ft. Wayne it is.... Mike __________________ **"There is no 'normal life'; there's just life." - Doc Holliday from the film Tombstone**

08-16-2012, 02:23 PM	#11
1931 flamingo Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: new britain,ct 06052 Posts: 9,390	Re: '39 Clutch Question HOW ABOUT TAKING THE CLUTCH INSP PLATE (ON THE TRANNY) OFF AND SPRAYING A CAN OF BRAKE KLEEN IN THERE?? nOTHING TO LOSE IF IT'S OILED UP. jmo Sorry about the caps. I've also done the immoveable object deal (32 coupe, 55 olds, 39 tranny) Paul in CT

08-17-2012, 05:54 PM	#13
rotorwrench Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 16,425	Re: '39 Clutch Question There may be some part of the pressure plate or disk that is not manufactured or machined correctly or some form of warpage. Proper adjustment of the release fingers can make a difference. Even a worn pilot bearing in the flywheel with associated main input shaft bearing looseness can have an affect.

08-17-2012, 05:55 PM	#14
Rebel Sympathy Senior Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: North Alabama Posts: 159	Re: '39 Clutch Question Thanks, 37 Coupe. All good advice. I'm replacing the motormounts first. Then, if necessary, I'm going further...... Neat sign, by the way. No doubt, very rare, I'm sure. I love it. Mike __________________ **"There is no 'normal life'; there's just life." - Doc Holliday from the film Tombstone**

08-17-2012, 09:50 PM	#15
Karl Wolf Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mill Valley,Ca. Posts: 1,509	Re: '39 Clutch Question The release fingers on one (used) I installed were the problem... Should have bolted it to a flywheel (out of the car) and measured the finger height, to see if they were equal... I drove my AV8 for a while knowing that this was the problem- the thought of taking it apart made it tolerable- barely Karl

08-18-2012, 12:54 AM	#16
columbiA Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: B.C. Canada Posts: 1,746	Re: '39 Clutch Question The chatter may not be in the clutch at all.If the splined coupling and/or splines are worn on DS or U-joint is worn,you will get chatter.In fact any extra slack any where in drive line will produce chatter as will a soft trans mount.

08-19-2012, 01:04 PM	#17
Gumpy Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Sf bay area Posts: 1,464	Re: '39 Clutch Question Sounds like you are thinking this out...I had a simular problem with chatter....I used the wrong pressure plate bolts on mine...I would recommend geniune henry shoulder bolts I found a set laying around i decided to have my flywheel surfaced and lightened at the same time....I found with the wrong bolts the pressure plate was waffle-ing and not layin flat...only when i put the proper bolts in did it perform properly....I would take 1931 flamingo's suggestion first....I also used a geniune ford tractor pressure plate and disk on mine it worked good

08-21-2012, 12:40 AM	#18
Rascal Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Sacto, Ca Posts: 85	Re: '39 Clutch Question i find that if the trans input shaft splines are dry & the splines in the middle of the clutch driven plate are dry , then often you get a constant shudder. i would go with FLAMINGO & get the trans inspection cover off and get some spray lube down on those splines & so what if you get a little on the outside edges of the plate , it will burn-evaporate off . go for it.