Size Press To Swedge Wheel Studs?

[Utopia Texas]

I have one front wheel stud on my 160A that needs replacement. The Snyder’s catalog says the studs just slide into the holes in the drum and then the shoulders are smushed into the drum with their tool and hydraulic press. What sized press is needed to do this? Any other tips or tricks I need to know? Unfortunately all my books are 400 miles away and I have never done this before…😊

[jerrytocci]

I think the one I used was a 30 ton

[Bob from Northport]

Yes. Anything smaller will not get the job done

[Synchro909]

30 tons is good but sure the hub is well supported at the back.

[kbinde2]

Recent article in the Sept/Oct issue of "Restorer" (MAFCA) provides some interesting reading on your post subject.
Seems more "after-market" parts, challenge our hobby knowledge to make
their product work, or fit, even to just look right for the era.
Originals are getting harder to find.. I guess that's why we try to horde as much as we can.! IMO/kb

[nkaminar]

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There is some excellent information in the article that kbinde2 referenced. For those who do not get that magazine, the article showed a technique for annealing the portion of the studs that gets swedged. The bolts are grade 8 which is too hard to swedge properly. There is a chance of warping or cracking the brake drums. The annealing reduced the area that is swedged to grade 2 but the rest of the bolt remains at grade 8. In my opinion, everyone should do this on reproduction bolts, especially the companies who are making them. They used a turntable (old record player) and heated the swedged area with a torch until dull red and then let them slowly cool. The author said not to heat too much or the bolt would get too soft in the swedged area.

[Ruth]

Hmmm, I don't think I even received that issue yet.

[Kurt in NJ]

On my press(40s manly) it took 23 tons to fully seat them

[Pete]

Originally Posted by nkaminar

There is some excellent information in the article that kbinde2 referenced. For those who do not get that magazine, the article showed a technique for annealing the portion of the studs that gets swedged. The bolts are grade 8 which is too hard to swedge properly. There is a chance of warping or cracking the brake drums. The annealing reduced the area that is swedged to grade 2 but the rest of the bolt remains at grade 8. In my opinion, everyone should do this on reproduction bolts, especially the companies who are making them. They used a turntable (old record player) and heated the swedged area with a torch until dull red and then let them slowly cool. The author said not to heat too much or the bolt would get too soft in the swedged area.

Those big organizations think nothing of giving out bad information. They can afford a lot of liability insurance.
There are a lot of things they are misinformed on.