thermostats

[Clem Clement]

Does an eV-8 require two thermostats?

[JSeery]

Yep, there are two totally separate cooling systems except for internal to the radiator.

[Henry/Kokomo]

Yes sir. One for each cylinder bank.

[GB SISSON]

And each side needs a 170 degree thermostat made for a subaru. Put them in last week and I have never seen such fast warm-up and steady temps. The napa part # is in my shop.

[kycowman]

Would you post the napa part # when yiu get it? Thanks

[Steves46]

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Originally Posted by GB SISSON

And each side needs a 170 degree thermostat made for a subaru. Put them in last week and I have never seen such fast warm-up and steady temps. The napa part # is in my shop.

I have a set on my 46 and they have been absolutely superb. If I was close to my garage I could provide the P/N but I'm sure someone else will post it soon.

[GB SISSON]

Balkamp brand from Napa. Part # 111. And made in USA of all places.

[Ford Freak]

I have a set in mine as well . Got them @ Pep Boys .

[petehoovie]

Can't seem to find it on the NAPA site. Can someone post a picture?....

[38bill]

Dont have a NAPA nearby here is one on Ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/4012558...=ps&dispItem=1

[Ross F-1]

Originally Posted by petehoovie

Can't seem to find it on the NAPA site. Can someone post a picture?....

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/MRD111

[petehoovie]

Thanks, guys....I see that the one pictured on the NAPA site has a rubber grommet around its circumference where as the one on eBay does not....

[Clem Clement]

Thanks guys. MY '39 Peekup had only the right on. No wonder it always wanted to turn left!

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by petehoovie

Thanks, guys....I see that the one pictured on the NAPA site has a rubber grommet around its circumference where as the one on eBay does not....

Lose the rubber gasket. It just rolls off when you put the hose on and messes things up. Hold the stat down like this:



This is the best thermostat that I have found for year 'round, all temperature, all altitude use: the Stant 14157.

The one I used I bought from O'Reilly as their part # 2962 that was in a Murray box # 4157 but it's the same as the NAPA # THM 111 and the Stant # 14157. All the same stat manufactured by the same manufacturer for a 1990 Subaru Justy.

[GB SISSON]

One of the many reasons I love the net as it pertains to the auto world. Who'd a thunk it? Subaru stats in a flathead v8..... My steel pipes pretty much meet against the outlets on the heads keeping the thermostats from rising up. My napa only had about 8" piece of hose so I cut it into four short pieces. And Henry, I love the look of your engine compartment and some may say you need to upgrade your wires etc., but as my physics teacher used to say..." The proof of the pudding is in the eating".

[Clem Clement]

Thanks. Where do the safety wires go: drilled holes in the head?

[weemark]

Originally Posted by Clem Clement

Thanks. Where do the safety wires go: drilled holes in the head?

safety wires just go down the side of the inlet and are held in place once the hose gets pushed down on them then clamped.

[Clem Clement]

Ah: thanks.

[mhsprecher]

Clem,

I was able to put stats on my 45 truck without the Henry wire system. I got Stant stats from one of the suppliers. For my 39, I am trying Bob Shewman's stats that go up in the top hoses. All have worked well so far, although the passenger side cylinder bank on my 45 truck warms up pretty high before cooling down, even with new stats, so I am not sure what is up with that.

[Clem Clement]

Thanks. I have some new ones coming from NAPA. The old ones were well down in the hose and sideways.

[V8 Bob]

The NAPA 111 stat may work great on early V8s, but is too small in diameter at 1.882" to work on late flatheads, were a diameter of 2.062" is about the minimum. A 170 stat is what I would like to run, but haven't found any to date.

[JSeery]

A 180 or 185 would be better.

[mhsprecher]

The Stant stats are what I got for my truck and are 170's. I think I used Old Henry's recommendation, but didn't need to wire them in. When I get home I will look at the boxes mine came in and share them here. The ones I got from Shewman for my 39 sedan were 180s.

[Old Henry]

Anyone considering Shewman's thermostats may want to check out this road test I did of them: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=143576.

[bills]

What gage is that wire? Do you trim it so that it stops short of the clamp (so it doesn't leak)?
Thanks!

[Drbrown]

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I use Stant 160's. The engine runs at 175 degrees anyway; maybe 180 going up a steep hill. I hold the stats in-place with a one-inch high piece of cut radiator hose .... one-size smaller than the actual radiator hose itself. Filler does not inhibit water flow .... its the same inside and outside diameter as the cast iron head outlet on which the stat sits. Little rubber cement holds the rubber filler ring in place; no drilling needed; easy to change stats if needed.

[Automotive Stud]

Originally Posted by V8 Bob

The NAPA 111 stat may work great on early V8s, but is too small in diameter at 1.882" to work on late flatheads, were a diameter of 2.062" is about the minimum. A 170 stat is what I would like to run, but haven't found any to date.

If you need a 170 for the earlier motor, use a Beck-Arnley 143-0692 if you can still find them. They work great in two cars I have, they both run right at 170.

[joe plumber]

I don't run any in my 53 flathead.When I did it always ran maxed the heat gauge out .Ihave a new radiator and 900 miles on a newly overhauled engine.I believe all one needs is a clean radiator and clean block.Works for me

[Drbrown]

Joe Plumber raises a good point. Stats are beneficial to hasten the engine's warm-up. But some Yea and nay of it .... a stat slows the flow of coolant, which MAY allow the coolant to absorb more heat from the block, and yet some here like pumps that speed the flow (????) In my colder climate I vote for stats (of whatever rating) to get my heater working and oil thinned sooner, and a clean block and radiator for max efficiency.

[36Bill]

Do these work in a 21 stud '36 engine? I flushed my system and now it runs cool.

[Tony, NY]

Rock Auto has the Subaru's in many temps and cheap. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...hermostat,2200

[Automotive Stud]

Originally Posted by joe plumber

I don't run any in my 53 flathead.When I did it always ran maxed the heat gauge out .Ihave a new radiator and 900 miles on a newly overhauled engine.I believe all one needs is a clean radiator and clean block.Works for me

Maybe that works in California or wherever, but here in NJ the engine won't get up to operating temperature in the fall and winter months, and in the summer the temperature will creep up in traffic or waiting to get in or out of a car show. Every car for the last 70 years has come with thermostats, I don't see any reason why anyone wouldn't want to use them.

[joe plumber]

Originally Posted by Automotive Stud

Maybe that works in California or wherever, but here in NJ the engine won't get up to operating temperature in the fall and winter months, and in the summer the temperature will creep up in traffic or waiting to get in or out of a car show. Every car for the last 70 years has come with thermostats, I don't see any reason why anyone wouldn't want to use them.

I live in Nebraska.

[flatjack9]

I've got an 8BA in my 39 and I use 180 deg. Stant Superstats #45358. Without them, the temerature barely gets over 150. Not good.

[compyello]

Would these subaru thermostats be considered high flow?

[Otterby]

How were the thermostats held in place originally? Were they a different style? I’m pretty sure it wasn’t with a couple copper wires wedged between the neck and the hose. I haven’t been able to make that work without a small leak where the wire is.

[Karl Wolf]

I run 180 degree thermostats.
Make sure to buy the ones that fail open. (Reverse popet- not many know the term.)
They are more $, well worth it against the price of damage from a closed inoperable one.

Karl

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by Otterby

How were the thermostats held in place originally? Were they a different style? I’m pretty sure it wasn’t with a couple copper wires wedged between the neck and the hose. I haven’t been able to make that work without a small leak where the wire is.

Older thermostats were a barrel style, completely different. Here is an example of one type.

[bills]

I had the same problem. I had to cut the wires so that they didn't extend below the bottom of the clamp. It did correct my moving thermostat issue.
I think originally the thermostats were held in place by the way the hoses were molded.
I have seen old, original hoses that narrow just above where the thermostats sit in the head. I'm guessing, but it makes sense to me. The new aftermarket hoses (at least the ones I bought), are the same I.D. from end-to-end, so there's nothing to hold the thermostats in place.

[Jim in Wisconsin]

Did Ford put thermostats in the early V8s?

[19Fordy]

bills: I would install them so that the clamp also holds them in place. Use sealant of course.

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by Jim in Wisconsin

Did Ford put thermostats in the early V8s?

Be a little difficult to operate them without them! The originals were a lower temp (160 I think) because of the types of antifreeze in use. The operating temps were increased over the years to improve efficiency.

Update: The Green Book shows the early thermostats were as low as 140 deg!

[Vintage Copper 47]

Originally Posted by JSeery

Older thermostats were a barrel style, completely different. Here is an example of one type.

I have an spare thermostat housing for my G model SIX.. this "barrel" type of thermostat is wedged inside.. how do you get them out? Or is it stuck because of years of corrosion.. IDK.. I haven't soaked it yet..

[Otterby]

Originally Posted by JSeery

Older thermostats were a barrel style, completely different. Here is an example of one type.

I see. I'm surprised no one makes them anymore with all the old flatheads still running.

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by Otterby

I see. I'm surprised no one makes them anymore with all the old flatheads still running.

They do (similar cylinder style), most just don't want to pay for them. GM here on the Barn promotes them.

[Jim in Wisconsin]

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Somehow I thought there were no thermostats in the v8s until 1937. I've been driving my 33 since 1970 without any - seems to work ok. What is the Ford part number for them?

[Ed Pitts]

Here's an example of the old ones. Ed

[JSeery]

I'm not the person to respond to questions about original parts, LOL. That's a question for someone like Dave. Would sure be difficult to drive in northern climates, guess you could block the radiator off. Guess I can read a parts book. The original temps are a lot lower than I thought!!!! But again, that is related to the antifreeze used. Running an engine at low temps has many negatives, increased ware, less efficient lubrication, increased slug, lower engine output efficiency, etc. Automotive engines are heat engines and efficiency (energy put into the engine vs power output) is related to operating temperature. Any heat lost out of the engine is wasted energy. This is part of why internal combustion engines are so inefficient in general, raising the operating temperature helps. A good efficiency number would be 25%, most older engines are far less.

[Dave D]

Originally Posted by joe plumber

I don't run any in my 53 flathead.When I did it always ran maxed the heat gauge out .Ihave a new radiator and 900 miles on a newly overhauled engine.I believe all one needs is a clean radiator and clean block.Works for me

Yeah, that's why EVERY internal combustion engine manufacturer in the world puts them in...because they are not needed.

[flatjack9]

Originally Posted by joe plumber

I don't run any in my 53 flathead.When I did it always ran maxed the heat gauge out .Ihave a new radiator and 900 miles on a newly overhauled engine.I believe all one needs is a clean radiator and clean block.Works for me

If everything was truly up to snuff in your engine, the operating temperature would never get any where near what is should be. I had a stat stick open on my car and the temperature barely got up to 150. This is with a 276 cu in engine with a stock radiator and no pressure cap. I also have stock water pumps, no "high flow" stuff. Glad it works for you.

[Lawrie]

I tig welded a modern t/state to a short length of stainless exh tube and the just slipped them up in the top hoses.
lawrie

[AnthonyG]

Hey I understand ya gotta work with what ya got. All our Flatty's are old blocks, yea most have been checked for cracks but ya never really know about the cooling internals. Some work great some not so much. Typically we don't find out til it's running in our cars. If ya get it working in the right range and gotta go without stat's to get there you go with it. If ya need an auxiliary electric, go with it. I pretty much run my Flatty only in warmer weather Spring, Summer, early Fall. I currently am running stat's & one side is giving me a PIA not opening half the time and I have to shut down and wack the housing with a big wooden screw driver handle to get it to open then fine till next shut down. Have had issues in the past with stat's sticking. IMO, and from my experience while they work when opening and closing properly great, but my experience is they frequently don't. I've run without & in the warmer weather mine comes up to temp just fine and stays in a nice operating zone ( 175 while at speeds & 200 in slow to stopped traffic. I will probably remove mine before my season begins (again) as I'm sick of seemingly always having some kind of an issue with stat's. A lot is written about Flatty's being cooling challenged.

[joe plumber]

My engine a 53 flathead.It is completely rebuilt,I'll say it again completely rebuilt and far from stock.Even got one of Bubbas 12 volt dizzys in it.I don't know everything about heating and cooling but have been in the plumbing and heating business for 50 years,put in my share of hydronic systems.My engine runs great without stats,course I don't drive the vehicle in the winter.All the gauges are new also.I guess there are those that know or think they know everything,but I'm not one of them.

[joe plumber]

Originally Posted by AnthonyG

Hey I understand ya gotta work with what ya got. All our Flatty's are old blocks, yea most have been checked for cracks but ya never really know about the cooling internals. Some work great some not so much. Typically we don't find out til it's running in our cars. If ya get it working in the right range and gotta go without stat's to get there you go with it. If ya need an auxiliary electric, go with it. I pretty much run my Flatty only in warmer weather Spring, Summer, early Fall. I currently am running stat's & one side is giving me a PIA not opening half the time and I have to shut down and wack the housing with a big wooden screw driver handle to get it to open then fine till next shut down. Have had issues in the past with stat's sticking. IMO, and from my experience while they work when opening and closing properly great, but my experience is they frequently don't. I've run without & in the warmer weather mine comes up to temp just fine and stays in a nice operating zone ( 175 while at speeds & 200 in slow to stopped traffic. I will probably remove mine before my season begins (again) as I'm sick of seemingly always having some kind of an issue with stat's. A lot is written about Flatty's being cooling challenged.

Amen