Flywheel opinion needed

[Bob/Kansas City]

I took the transmission out of the roadster over the weekend and when I removed the pressure plate and clutch I found that water had gotten into the clutch housing during the 25 plus years the car had sat in storage.

Although the pressure plate is ruined and will need replacing along with the clutch, pilot bearing, release bearing etc. I wonder if the flywheel is usable as is. It had only some surface rust that quickly sanded off leaving only the "shadow" of where the rust had been. The flywheel surface is smooth with no cracks, scores or pits.

Before I began dismantling the car it actually was drivable and although there was some chatter the clutch worked ok.

The car had apparently had a new clutch not long before it was put away. The old clutch mics right at .325" and still has plenty of facing left. I would guess that the flywheel had been off for resurfacing at that time.
What does anyone think? Is this flywheel usable as is or do I need to pull it and have it resurfaced? The friction surface measures right at 1.125" from the outer edge so I don't think it has been cut too much.
I would appreciate your opinions.
Thanks
Bob

[Jon]

If the rust is the only reason you think the PP is bad, it may not be. Don't know what your mechanical abilities are, but if you clean it up and check for cracks and flatness it might surprise you how good it is. I took a similar one apart, bead blasted it, painted all of the parts and its in my car now.

[Logan]

I'd take it to a machine shop and have them surface it and balance it while it's all apart. You might as well do it now since it's all apart and out of the car.

[Joe K]

Heck, I don't see anything here you can't use with a little elbow grease. Surfacing either pressure plate or flywheel may be nice - but won't add an iota to your clutching. And your clutch plate itself I would buy for $3 at Amherst and use a small wire wheel and clean up the center - and use it.

Your previous chatter was just the rust "dusting off." Some driving would have set this to right.

Some have said with good reason to bring it somewhere for small money and let them "handle" it. And somewhere will thank you for money easily earned. But you also leave yourself open to them screwing it up - or at a minimum changing a flywheel balance that might have been achieved with the flywheel attached to the crank (this how I did mine - all parts together.)

I would clean it up as best as I can and then go for a drive.

And hairline cracks are part and parcel to clutch surfaces.

Joe K

[MikeK]

Where's the dowel pin retainer? Missing! Apparently so are the pins. I guess the idiot who incorrectly safety wired the bolts left a few parts out. That would be my first concern.

[Terry,NJ]

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I'm gonna start a "discussion" here, But while it's, the Fly Wheel, at that Machine shop getting everything else done, Why not have some excess metal (Weight) taken off of it. The engine will run better for it. From what I'm reading, there's some rusty metal say in the bottom half of the Clutch assy. What kind of rust is it? The deep pitted kind? or just the surface kind. It is important that you know because the clutch is part of the rotating mass and must be in balance. If a lot of metal is missing, it will be out of balance and must be replaced. Also, there is a drain hole in the bottom of the FW housing. It has a cotter pin to keep it clear. Is it blocked?
Terry

[Patrick L.]

I think I would recommend putting a dial indicator to the wheel and see what you have to start with. That'll tell you quite a bit. If you remove the wheel, pay careful attention to any previous alignment/punch marks. I've seen the wheels installed 180º out. The dowel retainer ring is missing and its hard to determine if the dowels are missing or installed too 'deep'. I'm not impressed with the safety wiring.
There are close to a bizillion reasons for a clutch to chatter, so, it might better go back together correctly.

[Purdy Swoft]

For surface rust on the mating surface of the flywheel and pressure plate, I have used a grinder with a seven inch 24 or 36 grit disc. The surface rust usually comes off easily and doesn't remove anything but rust , unless you really bare down. You need a slightly rough surface on the flywheel and pressure plate or the clutch can or will slip. I hesitate to make recommendations. this has always worked for me.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I've used my 1/4 sheet palm sander to lightly go over the flywheel clutch surface and it worked great.

[Wick]

Don't forget a new pilot shaft bushing/bearing and Throw out bearing.

[Patrick L.]

When installing the new pilot bushing, remember to load it. Do not grease it.

[Bob/Kansas City]

The dowel pin retainer is definitely missing but the dowel pins are there but set in too deep. I'm going to go ahead and pull the flywheel and have it cleaned up and will replace the dowel retainer and wire it back up correctly.
Thanks to all for the responses !

[Sixseven]

Originally Posted by Patrick L.

When installing the new pilot bushing, remember to load it. Do not grease it.

Patrick, can you explain "load it" versus greasing it? Is this the same technique as loading a front wheel bearing?

[Patrick L.]

Originally Posted by Sixseven

Patrick, can you explain "load it" versus greasing it? Is this the same technique as loading a front wheel bearing?

The pilot bearing should be made from oil-lite which is porous. Loading can be kinda related to packing a wheel bearing. On a small one such as the pilot, I just set it on a finger or in my palm and fill the hole with oil. Then use another finger or other palm and put pressure on the oil until you see it coming thru the pores on the outside of the bearing. Its then lubed for life, however long life may be. Grease will just pack into the pores and then end up burning. I've changed more than I care to think about over the years that have been greased and ended up squealing.

[Drive Shaft Dave]

It look's like he has a ball bearing pilot to me.

[Patrick L.]

Originally Posted by Drive Shaft Dave

It look's like he has a ball bearing pilot to me.

You know what ! Good point. Most replacements for the 'A' are ball bearings aren't they. Most pilots are bushings and I've seen them in As, but, most are ball bearings for the As aren't they. Another brain fart I guess, sorry.

[Drive Shaft Dave]

Your advice on loading an oillite bushing is a good one though.

[Ron W]

Chatter is often caused by a worn throwout bearing and uneven pressure plate fingers. I would check them before reusing. Ron W