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Old 12-27-2012, 02:54 PM   #1
Jeff/Illinois
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Default 1928 multi-disc clutch

Is there an easy way to spot this on a '28 Model A by just looking from the outside of the housing? Is it hard to change over to a single disc clutch? Or do you have to stay with the multi disc?

Car I'm looking at is an August 1928 build. I don't really care for the idea of maintaining a '28 with their early features compared to say a '30 or a '31. Trying to talk myself out of this car
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Old 12-27-2012, 03:00 PM   #2
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Default Re: 1928 multi-disc clutch

Ok, The 28 had a 3/4" shaft for pedals all others 7/8".. You have to change Trans, flywheel, bell housing, & chutch assy. along with the pedals..
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Old 12-27-2012, 03:03 PM   #3
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Default Re: 1928 multi-disc clutch

The bellhousing looks alittle different. Has a smaller pedal shaft and a flat inspection cover. All of which will need to be changed to change to the later clutch along with the transmission housing. I have heard of a couple of people doing some machine shop work to allow clearance for the later clutch inside of the 28 bellhousing. I do not know the details of what all is invloved in doing this. Rod
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Old 12-27-2012, 03:11 PM   #4
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Default Re: 1928 multi-disc clutch

See my picture in #17 reply on this thread:

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=92644

BTW, no need to fear the multiplate, unless the flywheel is shot. They can be tough to find a good one.
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Old 01-22-2013, 03:06 PM   #5
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Default Re: 1928 multi-disc clutch

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rowdy View Post
The bellhousing looks alittle different. Has a smaller pedal shaft and a flat inspection cover. All of which will need to be changed to change to the later clutch along with the transmission housing. I have heard of a couple of people doing some machine shop work to allow clearance for the later clutch inside of the 28 bellhousing. I do not know the details of what all is invloved in doing this. Rod
Any updates on knowledge of what machining has to be done to allow an early 28 bellhousing to fit over a 29 single plate clutch?

Does it HAVE to be machined or could grinding suffice?

What actually hits?

I may have to go through this in 2 weeks.

Last swap I bought a RHD bellhousing and then found it to be AR and will most likely want to fit my best engine that is currently a LHD single plater.

So, if I can modify a RHD AR all is good, or I have to chase up a RHD 29 bellhousing.
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Old 01-22-2013, 03:37 PM   #6
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Default Re: 1928 multi-disc clutch

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Her's a 28 Multi:
Attached Images
File Type: jpg PA080013.jpg (55.3 KB, 362 views)
File Type: jpg PA080022.jpg (63.8 KB, 510 views)
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Old 01-22-2013, 07:14 PM   #7
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Default Re: 1928 multi-disc clutch

Pooch, the flywheel will hit the inside of the bellhousing. Like I said before I do not remember what the whole modifiaction intails as far as cleanancing. About all I can rememeber is being told id a V8 pressure plate was used. With some measuring I will bet you can figure it out. Rod
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Old 01-22-2013, 08:35 PM   #8
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Default Re: 1928 multi-disc clutch

I have a multi disk in my 28 tudor. So far it' the best clutch ever.
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Old 01-23-2013, 01:10 AM   #9
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Default Re: 1928 multi-disc clutch

OK Rowdy, will sort it out down the track when I get it home.
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Old 01-23-2013, 03:21 AM   #10
Ron in Quincy
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Default Re: 1928 multi-disc clutch

I have made the conversation of the 28 belhousing and transmission and installed a later pressure plate and lightened flywheel so I could use the early pedals. When completed you would be unable to identify, from a visual inspection, that anything had been changed. This conversation was on a Very Early 28 with left hand brake and smooth pedals. I did not make any change to the floating brake system.

For starters the 28 bellhousing has to be machined to accept the later transmission input shaft and throwout bearing sleeve and bearing retainer; the multidisc fork has to be changed to a later fork as the multidisc fork is too narrow for the later throwout bearing; the shaft size that carries the fork is the same size in both early and later bellhousings. If you use a cone pressure plate it is not necessary to make any changes to the inside of the 28 bellhousing for clearance. I had a regular flywheel cut down to 39 lbs including the new ring gear; the flywheel was surfaced smooth, drilled and tapped for the pressure plate (Joe Way who posts here on the Ford Barn did the work on the flywheel). If you choose to use the tractor pressure plate, with the counter weights on the outside then you have to do some grinding to the bottom inside of the bellhousing to make clearance. Would also suggest you use the early arm on the throwout shaft as you get better alienment with the clutch pedal.

Ron
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Old 01-23-2013, 05:04 AM   #11
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Default Re: 1928 multi-disc clutch

Ron, by CONE pressure plate, do you mean the same as DIAPHRAM pressure plate?
If so, is the pedal easier to push, and what year is the pressure plate from?
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Old 01-23-2013, 09:58 AM   #12
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Default Re: 1928 multi-disc clutch

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in Quincy View Post
I have made the conversation of the 28 belhousing and transmission and installed a later pressure plate and lightened flywheel so I could use the early pedals. When completed you would be unable to identify, from a visual inspection, that anything had been changed. This conversation was on a Very Early 28 with left hand brake and smooth pedals. I did not make any change to the floating brake system.

For starters the 28 bellhousing has to be machined to accept the later transmission input shaft and throwout bearing sleeve and bearing retainer; the multidisc fork has to be changed to a later fork as the multidisc fork is too narrow for the later throwout bearing; the shaft size that carries the fork is the same size in both early and later bellhousings. If you use a cone pressure plate it is not necessary to make any changes to the inside of the 28 bellhousing for clearance. I had a regular flywheel cut down to 39 lbs including the new ring gear; the flywheel was surfaced smooth, drilled and tapped for the pressure plate (Joe Way who posts here on the Ford Barn did the work on the flywheel). If you choose to use the tractor pressure plate, with the counter weights on the outside then you have to do some grinding to the bottom inside of the bellhousing to make clearance. Would also suggest you use the early arm on the throwout shaft as you get better alienment with the clutch pedal.

Ron
Ron,

I am so glad you posted this...Now you need to take it a step further and do an article about the conversion for Model A News or The Restorer. They are in dier strights for those in the know to do articles for them!

What do you think my friend?

Have a good one at Turlock.

Pluck
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Old 01-23-2013, 10:05 AM   #13
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Default Re: 1928 multi-disc clutch

Can the people who have made all the changes please tell me & others what you gained by doing all this work ?? Not long ago I took apart a multi set up that had 66,514 original miles on it, worked as new & looked the same.. And yes, I do run one in my "28"..
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Old 01-23-2013, 01:07 PM   #14
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Default Re: 1928 multi-disc clutch

I was just asking for the fact I have a LHD 29 and I want to convert to RHD and I only have a spare multidisk bellhousing.

If it involves a fair bit of work including machining, it will prob be easier for me to just source a later bellhousing.

I will admit, I much prefer the round pedals.
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Old 01-23-2013, 01:24 PM   #15
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Default Re: 1928 multi-disc clutch

When I get back from rhe Turlock Swap Meet I will try to get some pictures made of the conversion and post them on the Barn.

Tom, instead of using " Cone " I should have said "Diaphram". The Diaphram Pressure Plate has a much lower profile.

rON
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Old 01-23-2013, 04:45 PM   #16
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Default Re: 1928 multi-disc clutch

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in Quincy View Post
I have made the conversation of the 28 belhousing and transmission and installed a later pressure plate and lightened flywheel so I could use the early pedals. When completed you would be unable to identify, from a visual inspection, that anything had been changed. This conversation was on a Very Early 28 with left hand brake and smooth pedals. I did not make any change to the floating brake system.

For starters the 28 bellhousing has to be machined to accept the later transmission input shaft and throwout bearing sleeve and bearing retainer; the multidisc fork has to be changed to a later fork as the multidisc fork is too narrow for the later throwout bearing; the shaft size that carries the fork is the same size in both early and later bellhousings. If you use a cone pressure plate it is not necessary to make any changes to the inside of the 28 bellhousing for clearance. I had a regular flywheel cut down to 39 lbs including the new ring gear; the flywheel was surfaced smooth, drilled and tapped for the pressure plate (Joe Way who posts here on the Ford Barn did the work on the flywheel). If you choose to use the tractor pressure plate, with the counter weights on the outside then you have to do some grinding to the bottom inside of the bellhousing to make clearance. Would also suggest you use the early arm on the throwout shaft as you get better alienment with the clutch pedal.

Ron
So, upon re reading, the machining is allow the 29 input shaft to fit the 28 bellhousing?

What if I was to use the 28 bellhousing AND gearbox on the back of the 29 motor , would this skip the machining process?

Do I HAVE to use a 29 input shaft/To bearing/retainer?

Are they different?

You had your flywheel lightened, and you had clearance, so I am not sure if the info I heard will still mean the standard 29 flywheel will foul on the 28 bellhousing.
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Old 01-23-2013, 05:25 PM   #17
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Default Re: 1928 multi-disc clutch

Quote:
What if I was to use the 28 bellhousing AND gearbox on the back of the 29 motor , would this skip the machining process?
No, the difference has little to do with the engine itself. Also you will find that the 28 transmission case does not have the 4 bolt holes for the throwout/ bearing retainer. Best to use a later case, but if you wanted to use the 28 case those holes would have to be located, drilled and tapped. Rod
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Old 01-23-2013, 05:44 PM   #18
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Default Re: 1928 multi-disc clutch

The transmission Input Shaft for the multi disc clutch is entirely different than the later input shafts; the multi disc input shaft is set up to attach the clutch to the shaft. Also the throw out bearing is different than the later throw out bearing which attaches to the sleeve of the bearing retainer.

Ron
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Old 11-27-2014, 02:01 PM   #19
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Default Re: 1928 multi-disc clutch

I have an early 28 (June 15). I have all the rebuilt parts to switch from the multi disc clutch.(bellhousing,transmission,pressure plate and clutch housing. However can I use the old universal joint retainer housing that bolts onto the rear of the newer transmission?The only difference is the top part of the old housing is about 1/4" wider for some reason than the newer housing and the centre hole is slighter larger in the older housing.There was no mention of this in any of the posts.
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Old 11-27-2014, 02:07 PM   #20
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Default Re: 1928 multi-disc clutch

Yes, you can use the rear bearing retainer and clamshells. Rod
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Old 11-27-2014, 03:24 PM   #21
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Default Re: 1928 multi-disc clutch

Here is a couple of pictures showing the multiple disc clutch in the bell housing and the difference in the shafts.
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File Type: jpg pilot shaft low res.jpg (32.3 KB, 81 views)
File Type: jpg Multiple Disc Clutch in bell housing.jpg (37.4 KB, 96 views)
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Old 11-28-2014, 12:49 PM   #22
d.j. moordigian
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Default Re: 1928 multi-disc clutch

Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrell In Vancouver View Post
Her's a 28 Multi:
It could optical,....but it sure looks like you have a 30-31 shift lever
in your 28 car,...your knuckles will find the instrument panel a little
hard in Reverse and Second.....


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Old 04-08-2022, 01:29 AM   #23
Ken Head
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Default Re: 1928 multi-disc clutch

When you get it sorted out be sure to keep the rest of us 28ers informed too
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Old 05-24-2022, 07:42 AM   #24
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Default Re: 1928 multi-disc clutch

I have a multi disc setup and have it apart for a cleanup as I was having trouble moving from rev or 1st to neutral.
Hadn’t been apart for 40+ yrs so it was well worth a look.
The flywheel is grooved where the center 3 plates run but the rest is good, the centre hub was very dirty/ dusty where the steels run so a good clean up and I’m thinking it should be okay as the fibres are in great nick also.
I don’t have a lot of adjustment left on the pedal linkage so was looking for worn plates or something like that.
I have the gearbox on a bench and I assembled the clutch to the input shaft, connected up the pedal to see how it looked. I set the pedal with a minimal amount of clearance on the throw out bearing and when I leaned on the pedal,I noticed the input shaft moved forward a 16th or so. Can anyone tell me what the endplay should be on the input shaft?
That and a small amount of play in the throw out fork pin is using up quite a bit of adjustment.
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Old 05-26-2022, 08:30 PM   #25
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Default Re: 1928 multi-disc clutch

Can anyone tell me if there is a procedure to line up the multi plate clutch assembly when fitting the gearbox /clutch back into the flywheel?
Thanks for any help.
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Old 05-27-2022, 01:29 AM   #26
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Default Re: 1928 multi-disc clutch

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For Pooch the English RHD single disc bell housing has the round pedals these are grooved on the pedal face . The multidisc also has round pedals but no grooves . I would think the RHD bell housings should be the same in OZ . I have not seen oval pedals on a RHD bell housing here in UK .

John in sunny morning Suffolk County England .
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Old 05-27-2022, 07:24 AM   #27
Keith True
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Default Re: 1928 multi-disc clutch

Barrelnose if the discs are lined up properly first,that whole assembly slides in a lot easier than you would think.I use 3 chainsaw files laid in the grooves,with a hose clamp around them when backing off the compression tool.I have never once had the fight I anticipated rassling things into place.
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Old 05-27-2022, 09:35 AM   #28
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Default Re: 1928 multi-disc clutch

Thanks for the reply, Iíll give that a go.
Just that fact the fibre plate id is larger that the inner hub, they can easily not be centred.
Cheers again for the idea.
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Old 05-27-2022, 10:56 AM   #29
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Default Re: 1928 multi-disc clutch

fyi
the easiest way to tell if the clutch is multi disk without doing any other research is.
look at the top inspection plate on the bellhousing. if it is louvered it will be a single disc, if it has no louvers it will be a multi disc.
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Old 05-29-2022, 09:34 AM   #30
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Default Re: 1928 multi-disc clutch

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Barrelnose if the discs are lined up properly first,that whole assembly slides in a lot easier than you would think.I use 3 chainsaw files laid in the grooves,with a hose clamp around them when backing off the compression tool.I have never once had the fight I anticipated rassling things into place.
Thanks Keith True, I did it your way and it worked out great, I lightly loaded up the spring and as the fibre rings are slightly larger than the outer steel case I centred them off that and then loaded the spring and did her up.
Perfect, thanks again.
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