Ford F1 Steering problem

[George/Maine]

I have never driven a stock 52 f1 pu.My 52 f1 now has a toyota ps box.This kit is for 53thur 56 says can be made to fit 48-52.Before I cut the pitman arm want to know what you think.It wants to dart into on coming traffic when hitting bumps.The front end is stock and the hook arm is, center of ball 14 1/2 inch from floor,and the pitman arm is lower 13 inches.To make level with front i would have to shorten pitman arn by 1 1/2 inches.This will make the steering quicker and hopfully stop so much bum steer.

[4tl8ford]

First get rid of the Drunkin' Monkey wobble.
Check King Pins and replace if worn.
Check Drag Link ends and replace if worn
Check Tie Rod ends and replace if worn
Check Spring Shackle Pins and Bushings and replace if worn.
Check the Alignment and adjust if necessary.
Now see how it drives - then we can discuss the Drag Link Alignment.

[Frank The Plumber]

George, Im all little worried about this mounting hole that seems to be put through the frame, it looks like there could be a ton of motion on this part.

[Ken Crans]

Check all moving parts and make a new pitman arm on a milling machine that is shorter in length, and fatter at the spline, maybe a 3rd shock that mounts to the axle and to 1 tie rod end, that should do it! Ken

[George/Maine]

It sure does,nt look good but it on there ok.

There is 3 bolts holding it on ,ran into rivet on spring hanger so there is a small piece on there. I had many trys to get it right LOL

[George/Maine]

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I have the 3rd shock,I had header clearance problems had many trys to get it on.The pitman arm is about 1inch below front ball and aren,t sure if thats the problem.I just put new tires and it does look to be toed out.

[George/Maine]

I may have lost 1 inch down and back some,with my many trys.

[Andy]

I don't think the pitman arm location is any problem. I would check condition of all the front end parts. What is with the hose clamp on the drag link?
Do you just have two bolts holding the mount on? It might be twisting under load. I would get someone to twist the wheel while I looked for movement. Not a bad idea to look at everything.

[George/Maine]

The reason I think it maybe the pitman arm,when hitting a bump when the body goes down wants to turn right,when the body goes up it wants to turn left and is at its longest length or even.The link was a nos and badly rusted couldn,t get the screws out both ends so i made a slice ,hoes clamp just to keep together.My thought if the balls were even the L-R movement would be less.It darts to left when hitting bumps no mater how tight i hold the wheel,new rebuilt box,no play.On a stock f1 are the balls level to ground.The truck is like me, one ball lower then other. LOL

[Gary in La.]

Check your toe in ,it appears you may have a toe out problem from your description of how it reacts to the road conditions.

[Ken Crans]

That steering box has to be where Henry designed it, plus the pitman arm is too long so the drag link is not level, it has to be for the way that you hit bumps that stabilizes the shock. no mater how tight the box it is all the force on that pitman arm and the location of the box.Thats why it pulls to the left when you hit a bump. After you fix the problem or you might be able to use a 3rd shock too. Good Luck Ken

[Frank The Plumber]

I recommend that you make a bridge plate to reinforce the frame where you installed your steering component, you have removed a lot of frame material and you could have a failure if you hit a bump at high speed. There are a lot of factors and geometry to consider when modifying steering and suspension components, most of the calculations are based upon new or good condition components, if you had one item, including tire quality issues, that was wrong or worn you could get yourself into a variation. The one principle of the geometry is that as you accelerate your tire plane will load or steer out, the faster you go the more they steer out, if they get parallel or past they become unstable, the tires can bounce or dribble making the car a hell ride, as all of the components work together to provide resistance, worn parts can cause this instability. A worn spring or a tired shock can cause the wheel to go past parallel, thus, when you hit a swail or a bump you get a steer reaction from your assembly. You cant tune worn parts, your toe in and camber have to be so much to compensate for high speed and bumps that the car will steer itself at low speeds. Comb thru your whole system and please fix your frame, I like talking to you and dont want to hear that you hurt yourself. Your Friend Frank

[George/Maine]

Frank Thanks for help and now think that I may have those spring to tight in the ends.Not using the cotter pins they are in almost all the way.I 'll turn them out to 1 1/2 turns after 5 years they kept them, they maybe for the darting .Also take the tie rod off and clean threads so i can turn easier,and make toein adjustment.Once i get it set i will fill in the holes with plate steel its so hard to get box out with engine in there.
Thanks everyone for the help and ideas.

[JWL]

First, your original statement that shortening the pitman arm will make the steering "quicker" is opposite of the fact. Next, any slack, wear, or flex has to be removed before diagnosing any problem.

[George/Maine]

Update today,backed off 2 turns both ends were to tight.What I think they is anti dart perventers.There is no other good reason for the springs.Toed it in little to much i can see the wheel draging in the dirt.Took for test drive think its about the best its going to get.The idea is not to make quicker, but to level the pivit points.Right now i have 2 turns to lock one way.