STREET MACHInES, Engines, gearing and etc

[Ol' Ron]

Been a number of post, about rear end gearing, over drives and performance mods to the engine. There are a number of things you should consider before you make a decision, This may help.
Application of the vehicle. Groceries getter, open road travel. Etc.

For this you have to consider the performance of the engine. A bone stock 239 engine in good tune puts out aprox 80 hp at 3000 rpm. Torque runs from a max of 150 at 2k to 133 at 3k . Actually alittle less with generator and fan.

All this information is available in JWL's book "Flathead Facts"
The original Vehicle took most of this information into consideration when built.

For "street use" the only way you can improve this is to increase the torque output of the engine in the operating range. 2 to 3000 rpm and the only way you can do this is by compression and displacement.

Dual exhaust, more carbs and a hot ignition, doesn't get it done, just milling the heads does more in this range. I hope more people take part in this thread, this way we'll all learn allot and maybe save a few buck in the process.

[Pete]

For street engines, both Ron and John have excellent books that cover anything you need to know.

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by Ol' Ron

Been a number of post, about rear end gearing, over drives and performance mods to the engine. There are a number of things you should consider before you make a decision, This may help.
Application of the vehicle. Groceries getter, open road travel. Etc.

For this you have to consider the performance of the engine. A bone stock 239 engine in good tune puts out aprox 80 hp at 3000 rpm. Torque runs from a max of 150 at 2k to 133 at 3k . Actually alittle less with generator and fan.

All this information is available in JWL's book "Flathead Facts"
The original Vehicle took most of this information into consideration when built.

For "street use" the only way you can improve this is to increase the torque output of the engine in the operating range. 2 to 3000 rpm and the only way you can do this is by compression and displacement.

Dual exhaust, more carbs and a hot ignition, doesn't get it done, just milling the heads does more in this range. I hope more people take part in this thread, this way we'll all learn allot and maybe save a few buck in the process.

Good post Rod. And like Pete posted, lots of good information in their books.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Ol' Ron

Torque runs from a max of 150 at 2k to 133 at 3k.

Possibly a LITTLE off topic here, but this is a better reason to consider a 5-speed trans (4gears + O/D) such as a T5 for it's ability to keep the engine operating within the favorable torque band (RPM-wise), vs the importance of the benefits realized from the O/D. When you think it thru, the T5 gives you the best of BOTH worlds. Just a thought for the few folks that are actually considering the use of one of these transmissions. You know what they say....."Once you go T5, you'll never go back", or words to that effect! DD

[Pete]

Originally Posted by V8COOPMAN

Possibly a LITTLE off topic here, but this is a better reason to consider a 5-speed trans (4gears + O/D) such as a T5 for it's ability to keep the engine operating within the favorable torque band (RPM-wise), vs the importance of the benefits realized from the O/D. When you think it thru, the T5 gives you the best of BOTH worlds. Just a thought for the few folks that are actually considering the use of one of these transmissions. You know what they say....."Once you go T5, you'll never go back", or words to that effect! DD

X2 on all of that.
I have converted several and every one has said it is the most fun you can have with your clothes on.

[Ol' Ron]

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Yes, I sometime think it was made for the flathead. As well as the RTS 3 spd with OD

[tubman]

Originally Posted by Pete

X2 on all of that.
I have converted several and every one has said it is the most fun you can have with your clothes on.

These are obviously older gentlemen.

[Pete]

Originally Posted by Ol' Ron

Yes, I sometime think it was made for the flathead. As well as the RTS 3 spd with OD

Forget that RTS3 thing. It has absolutely horrible ratios for either performance or gas mileage driving. Mainly, it is short one gear.

[JSeery]

Pete, when are you going to publish a book? I'd be interested!!

[Pete]

Originally Posted by JSeery

Pete, when are you going to publish a book? I'd be interested!!

LOL....You can't imagine how many times I have had that question.
I have to reply, when would I do it? I am running on 32 hour days now and enjoying every minute of it.
One of the big reasons is, my experience is in circle track and Bonneville racing and interest in that is very small compared to street racing and I use the term "street racing" because when you get right down to it, that is what all of the economy diddling with flathead Ford engines is about.
If you want to go get groceries or go to show and shines you don't need a dry sump oiling system etc etc. You just want to beat the 55 GMC pickup next to you at the light.
All of the data that can possibly be published about somewhat modified flatheads has been published many times.
I know most of the people that are interested in all out flatheads and any new ones can easily find me. My computer is on 24/7 and I spend at least an hour a day answering vintage race email. That is the way I want it.
So, no book for the foreseeable future.

Thanks for thinking about it anyway.

[Terranova]

So if I already have a merc crank and EAB heads I should be ok and switching from a single carb to a duel intake will just be icing on the cake, right?

[Ol' Ron]

Pete, I have an RST in my 47 PU behind a "stock"280 ci engine. 2GC carb abd converted Chevy distributor. 3.73 44A rear. Living in Vermont, it's perfect match. I saved the T-5 for the roadster, have to watch my pennies.

[flatjack9]

I've got the RTS in my 39 with a 3.70 rear axle. Really like it.

[Ol' Ron]

One way to save money is to have your cast iron heads angled milled .050" with the majority of the material removed from the valve side of the head. Then check for piston to head clearance. A Dremel can fix any interfere. adds a point in compression

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Ol' Ron

Living in Vermont, it's perfect match. I saved the T-5 for the roadster, have to watch my pennies.

Ron.....Do you know WHICH T5 you have? There are so many variations with the gear ratios, many of which have a ridiculously low 4.03 1st gear, along with pretty wide spacing between gears. Ideally, it's a close-ratio gear set with the 2.95 1st gear to keep the revs tightly-grouped in the relatively-narrow torque band on that flatty. Generally, if the input shaft has 26-splines, it's gonna be the close ratio set. Remember, any T5 case can be re-fitted with any of the different gear sets (gear ratios). But the gear sets must be swapped as a complete set....no way to individually tailor ONE PARTICULAR gear's ratio....complete gear sets only. DD

[Darrell S]

I need an education. What is an RTS3 transmission?

[frnkeore]

They are good, strong transmissions, with aluminum cases! Maybe not the best for a hot rod but, they would do well in a PU, especially with a 255 ci or larger engine, with stock or mild cam.

They are also know as a Top Shift Over Drive.

They come in different gear sets, for different engines.

Frank

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Darrell S

I need an education. What is an RTS3 transmission?

It's a 3-speed + O/D out of an '80s Ford pick-up that guys are adapting to Model "A" and V8 Ford torque tubes. The only real gain is synchros and O/D. Gear ratios are similar to stock Model "A" 3-speed ratios. This is where the T5 excels with that extra gear (4-speed + O/D) when choosing the close ratio gear set. The RTS 3 (the second picture below), after adapting to torque tube for a Model "A". The first picture is a T5 that we adapted to the torque tube in a '35 Ford. DD


T5 trans in aa '35 Ford below:






RTS 3 below:

[Pete]

I have often wondered how many T5's are installed without short throw shift adapters.
That is kind of like installing a 3 carb manifold with only one carb on it.

[Ggmac]

Anyone ever use a ford single rail overdrive ? 83-84 vintage . I just removed one from a mustang and thought it could possibly work .

[bobgc]

I like what I see in the pictures. I have a t-5 but was reluctant to put it in as I was told you have to convert to open drive, that means spreading the wish bones on the rear. Obviously you don't have to.

[Tinker]

For the regular guy gearing is the most sensible to utilize power. I've said you could make a 8hp briggs go 200mhp with the right transmission. Oh course this is not true, but gearing.

Looks great! Worst part about the earlier way was cutting the frame up and losing the torque tube. new 2019 corvettes use torque tubes. F150 versions were/are available also. Maybe as 3sps become less available to buy, this might free up some.

Coop, were does the shiftier end up in the cab for the sample you shared?


.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Tinker

Looks great! Worst part about the earlier way was cutting the frame up and losing the torque tube. new 2019 corvettes use torque tubes.


Coop, were does the shiftier end up in the cab for the sample you shared?


.

Tinker...If you're not familiar with my "T5 W/TORQUE TUBE" link (click the hi-lited link at the bottom, left of this post), I should have mentioned that this T5 is in Heard's '35 pick-up. The car and truck chassis are identical, and the relative position of the shifter is similar in a car or pick-up with regard to the seat. The picture below (as well as many others) can also be seen if you click my "T5" link below in this post. This is a T5 that we put together utilizing the very short Jeep main shaft and tail shaft housing, along with the Camaro close-ratio gear set (2.95 1st gear) and a .63 O/D ratio. DD

[Tinker]

Pretty slick setup.

[flatjack9]

Originally Posted by V8COOPMAN

Ron.....Do you know WHICH T5 you have? There are so many variations with the gear ratios, many of which have a ridiculously low 4.03 1st gear, along with pretty wide spacing between gears. Ideally, it's a close-ratio gear set with the 2.95 1st gear to keep the revs tightly-grouped in the relatively-narrow torque band on that flatty. Generally, if the input shaft has 26-splines, it's gonna be the close ratio set. Remember, any T5 case can be re-fitted with any of the different gear sets (gear ratios). But the gear sets must be swapped as a complete set....no way to individually tailor ONE PARTICULAR gear's ratio....complete gear sets only. DD

A properly modified and tuned flathead will have a very flat torque curve from 2000 rpm to 3500 rpm.

[Tinker]

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I don't want to be this guy but buy a few books. JWL's and Rons on flatheads. Maybe pick up some manuals too. If you are doing 3sp trans then Van pelt.


or not.


.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by flatjack9

A properly modified and tuned flathead will have a very flat torque curve from 2000 rpm to 3500 rpm.

Hey Flatjack….Every combination of parts used and mods employed will obviously produce optimum torque ranges that will vary to some degree, BUT I UNDERSTAND YOUR POINT. The point I was trying to make is that you want to keep your RPMs (while rowing thru the gears) comfortably within the limits of whatever your particular torque range may be, without dropping the RPMs below the lower limit when you shift to the next higher gear. Using YOUR torque figures, and when utilizing a 3-speed trans, it might be a possibility that you could shift from 1st gear to 2nd gear at 3,400 RPMs. It's also entirely possible that when making the shift that the RPMs may drop to somewhere below 2,000, whereas utilizing the extra gear that a 4-speed offers would obviously make your RPM drop LESS, to a more-desirable RPM well-above your lower limit. Virtually all 3-speeds have too much of a spread between gears for optimum torque utilization.....where acceleration rate is a factor. Go drive somebody's car with a Muncie 4-speed or a T5 and the difference becomes remarkably obvious. DD

[Ol' Ron]

My T-5 came from an 87 Mustang with the HP 302 engine. The car was in a serious wreck, but the driver and Passenger survived. I likr the ratios fpr tins application. 4/10 in the rear. I just replaced the Dana 44A with a Dana 35 Major weight savings, unfortunately I have to install a Locker. Fortunately I have a few friends that run the off road with Jeeps. I don't think the flathead will hurt it.

[JSeery]

Ron, does it have the tag on it still? There are charts where you can look up the gear ratios from the tag number.

[Ol' Ron]

Not sure about the tag. It;s amazing how a thread on street engines, can shift to transmissions. Not that I mind. However I think that modifying the trans to work with the original rear is going backwards and is an unnecessary expense. The original rear isn't much better than the trans your replacing. The cost of a late open drive rear isn't that much and you get a modern rear and brakes. I like the Dana/spicer 35 It' light,which improves ride and comes in a bunch of gear ration and you can buy a bolt pattern adapter now the reliability factor of your vehicle goes war
y up. Don't forget to mill the heads. get more torque.

[JSeery]

Ron, there should be a metal tag connected to one of the cover bolts. Without the tag it is difficult to tell what you have and they are often missing. You can determine the gear ratios by turning the input and output and carefully counting the rotations. Or just removing the cover and counting the gear teeth.

An 87 mustang should have a 3.35 1st gear and .68 OD behind the 5.0. The 4 cyl engines had much lower gearing.

[Ol' Ron]

I've had the trans for several years, and had the gear ratios written down some place and the opinion was it would make a good start. The engine will be a 258 with some extensive porting and a Earson D410 cam. I hope to pull the torque curve up over 5k. Might work, might not, we'll see????

[Bored&Stroked]

The best factory gear set is still used in the T5Z Ford Racing version of the T5. It has the 2.95 first. I take this transmission and then put a .80 or so overdrive gear in it - which keeps all the gear spreads where I want them. The only challenge is that this transmission is NOT cheap, so it is not about saving money by any means. I'm probably heading this route in my 34 roadster . . . but that project is further "back in line" behind the rest! LOL

[Gene1949]

Originally Posted by V8COOPMAN;

Go drive somebody's car with a Muncie 4-speed or a T5 and the difference becomes remarkably obvious.

Well spoken, for sheer drivability a 4 speed or a 5 speed were made for the flathead. I put a T-10 and a Granada [Ford] automatic rear in 25 years ago, long before many had thought about the conversion. The T-10 and Granada are basically "bolt-ins".
Once I drove it never once thought about reinstalling the OD.
The auto gear makes for a very comfortable [2600rpms] 70MPH car. The drop-in center section makes for an easy gear change if desired.

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

The best factory gear set is still used in the T5Z Ford Racing version of the T5. It has the 2.95 first. I take this transmission and then put a .80 or so overdrive gear in it - which keeps all the gear spreads where I want them. The only challenge is that this transmission is NOT cheap, so it is not about saving money by any means. I'm probably heading this route in my 34 roadster . . . but that project is further "back in line" behind the rest! LOL

Not cheap is currently correct, but a few years back I could purchase T5z's from a Ford dealer for really low prices and with free shipping to the dealer! Purchased several of them and have two left. They were cheaper new than you could build a good unit. But, those days are gone.

[Ol' Ron]

the Ford T-10 to the dealer was $205, back in the 60's.

[Ole Don]

FYI, a pre 1990 Ranger rear axle from a 4x4 should be a factory Traction Loc that is 56 5/8 from mounting flange to mounting flange. It should be a 3.73 or 4.10. The four cylinder ratio may be 3.45, same width but with small brakes.

[Pete]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

The best factory gear set is still used in the T5Z Ford Racing version of the T5. It has the 2.95 first. I take this transmission and then put a .80 or so overdrive gear in it - which keeps all the gear spreads where I want them. The only challenge is that this transmission is NOT cheap, so it is not about saving money by any means. I'm probably heading this route in my 34 roadster . . . but that project is further "back in line" behind the rest! LOL

The basic gear set number for that is 202. You have to add the .8 OD yourself.
I have had one like that in my car for 20 years.

The cheapest way to arrive at all of this is buy or exchange the internal parts at a transmission shop or, if you wish, just have them assemble one with the 202 gears. You will get all of the late synchros etc also. While you are at it you can add a second tail shaft bushing in line with the original. This gives the slip joint more bearing surface. Put a street "L" in the fill plug hole facing up with a pipe plug in it. This will raise the lube level a half inch which helps parts longevity. It helps oil the slip joint also.
Also makes it a LOT easier to fill.

Transmission shops always have good used gears so you can save a few bucks by using these also.

[Tim Ayers]

All this makes perfect sense, but it seems to me like you need to keep working back and out if going with a different trans.

A built flathead with a modern trans equals more speed and acceleration. More speed and acceleration means you'll need a stronger rear with a better ratio.

More speed and acceleration also means you'll need to stop better, so upgrading the brakes is a consideration.

I guess it would make sense to start with all these parts first vs. retro fitting.

Just throwing my worthless opinion into the mix....

[David Lien]

[QUOTE=Ol' Ron;1795297]Not sure about the tag. It;s amazing how a thread on street engines, can shift to transmissions. Not that I mind. However I think that modifying the trans to work with the original rear is going backwards and is an unnecessary expense.

OK Old Ron
How about a stock cam shaft in a 276 Cu. In. 59 AB engine used for street driving???. Do I really need a different (( hotter, bigger, faster, cam)). I Never get more than 100 miles from home. Car is a 1946 ford coupe that has 81,000
miles on the engine and car. Engine is coming out this month, I have 4" crank turned and ready to go. I also have pistons, rings, new valves and Guides, Gaskets. NOW IF I KEEP THE LIFTERS AND CAM ALL TOGETHER and not mix the lifters up, MAYBE I can reuse the Cam. MAYBE THIS IS A VERY BAD IDEA.??? WHAT SAY YOU???. This thought is not money driven, But the car now starts easy, even in the winter, and is pleasant to drive. No slipping the clutch or always keeping the RPM up. I have been driving 46-48 fords for most of 65 Yrs., and I know what it is like to drive a flathead ford that is not lazy. I would really like to hear Old Rons, and others thoughts on this. Has any one here ever run a stock cam with a 276 Cu, In. engine, one carb and stock heads. I would like to thank all you guys for this site, and all the knowledge that is here. David

[Ol' Ron]

My "280" engine was a 276. L-100 engine I was going to supercharge. Unfortunately ny Partner died ansd I had to leave the shop and build one of my own. The truck went into vegetation, I opened the hood and found no spsrk plugs were in the engine. So it came apart. I bout a set of .020" over 3 5/16 pistons from Egge (145 over), put in an EAB cam milled a set of EAB heads for /045" piston to head clearance. Bored out a Merc intake for a 2GC carb installed a converted SBC dist. WE put in the RTS trans a 44A dana real with 3.73 gears and went after the Weston/ Andover hill a 14% grade. Bet my friend George it could make it in OD at 50 mph, starting at 50 mph.
I lost, went over the top at 43, engine was turning 1300 RPMs. The thing is a torque monster. Might put the 3.30 back in.

[Pete]

[QUOTE=David Lien;1795475]

Originally Posted by Ol' Ron

Not sure about the tag. It;s amazing how a thread on street engines, can shift to transmissions. Not that I mind. However I think that modifying the trans to work with the original rear is going backwards and is an unnecessary expense.

OK Old Ron
How about a stock cam shaft in a 276 Cu. In. 59 AB engine used for street driving???. Do I really need a different (( hotter, bigger, faster, cam)). I Never get more than 100 miles from home. Car is a 1946 ford coupe that has 81,000
miles on the engine and car. Engine is coming out this month, I have 4" crank turned and ready to go. I also have pistons, rings, new valves and Guides, Gaskets. NOW IF I KEEP THE LIFTERS AND CAM ALL TOGETHER and not mix the lifters up, MAYBE I can reuse the Cam. MAYBE THIS IS A VERY BAD IDEA.??? WHAT SAY YOU???. This thought is not money driven, But the car now starts easy, even in the winter, and is pleasant to drive. No slipping the clutch or always keeping the RPM up. I have been driving 46-48 fords for most of 65 Yrs., and I know what it is like to drive a flathead ford that is not lazy. I would really like to hear Old Rons, and others thoughts on this. Has any one here ever run a stock cam with a 276 Cu, In. engine, one carb and stock heads. I would like to thank all you guys for this site, and all the knowledge that is here. David

What you are proposing was one of the most popular modified stock car racing engines there was in the 50's. Yes, your proposed combination will work fine, EXCEPT, it is NOT a good policy to use a used cam and lifters. You may get away with it but there is a good chance it will fail early. Have your cam reground stock or to 53 Ford EAA grind and have the lifters refaced. It is cheap insurance.

[frnkeore]

Much of this transmission talk, has been, based on competition gearing and I believe that by far, the membership of this forum are restorers and cruiser's so, most any of the T-5's would be usable transmissions and better, overall, than the '39 box. Even ones with the 3.5, 3.76 and 4.03, first gear. The RTS has a place here, too. In all cases, the gearing is better that the standard early Ford gearing.

For example, one of the T-5, 3.76 first gear trans, has almost identical ratio's as the 25 tooth Zephyr OD transmission, with a extra 3.76 first gear. Meaning you can run a higher final drive ratio. What be could be wrong with that? There are times when you may want that low first gear, such as a parade.

For actual racers (very, very few) the way that you gear the car, is to gear for the top speed that you can attain at the track you run and then, select the closest gear set that you can find, that has a progressively smaller rpm splits as you increase speed. The engine has to work harder as speed increases, mostly because of aerodynamic forces. i.e. It basically takes 4 times the HP, to double your speed, all other thing equal.

I both drag raced and road raced. In road racing, first gear (5 speed trans), isn't to important, as it's purpose is to get you started w/o stalling and at all the tracks that I ran, you didn't get much under 60 mph, second gear covered that. There was a exception, in Formula Ford, you could only use 4 speed trans so, it was geared so that 1st gear was usable (all gears can be changed) but, they had a hard time getting to speed and had to slip the clutch but, we had rolling starts so, it was just out of the pits and when you sat on the grid, that it mattered.

A racer doesn't care about gas mileage, he wants to burn as much as he can, in the time allotted.

A cruiser wants a easy to drive car. Starts off easy, runs quite and has as good a gas mileage, as possible. A street race to a cruiser last a few seconds and usually ends by 60 mph.

Here is a very extensive list of gear sets for different cars that had the T-5.

Frank

[Lawrie]

Long range, we run a 265 cuin 99a engine in our 33, stock 33 cam,stock 33 manifold and 97 carb, stock 3 speed trans,(48 gearset) stock 33 rear end 3.78.
this tows our caravan all day at 50-55 mph, Its a really nice engine, could do with a bigger carb for sure but its very nice like it is.
Lawrie

[JSeery]

Just like any vehicle, you want it to drive like a truck, use truck gears, you want it to drive like a car, use car gearing, you want it to drive like a high performance car, use high performance gearing. A weak engine is another reason for wide ratio gearing.

Racing is a whole different world.

[V8COOPMAN]

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Originally Posted by Ol' Ron

the Ford T-10 to the dealer was $205, back in the 60's.

Yup, and my '65 Corvette coupe with eleven options was only $5,500 back in the '60s, too. DD

[Tinker]

Originally Posted by Lawrie

Long range, we run a 265 cuin 99a engine in our 33, stock 33 cam,stock 33 manifold and 97 carb, stock 3 speed trans,(48 gearset) stock 33 rear end 3.78.
this tows our caravan all day at 50-55 mph, Its a really nice engine, could do with a bigger carb for sure but its very nice like it is.
Lawrie

You have to respect this. It's quite great!

[Ol' Ron]

Pete, we need a grind like the EAB/EAC with alittle more lift. I use the rotators on the sterrt engines that use up to .350 lift and only 45/50 lbs of spring pressure. so I don't think i have to worry about the cam. The big prise here is the torque and fuel mileage.

[Talkwrench]

Originally Posted by Tinker

You have to respect this. It's quite great!

Indeed it is. You really have to understand how remote the areas Lawrie travels too as well.

[glennpm]

... or if you need to pull some stumps out ;-))

Originally Posted by frnkeore

For example, one of the T-5, 3.76 first gear trans, has almost identical ratio's as the 25 tooth Zephyr OD transmission, with a extra 3.76 first gear. Meaning you can run a higher final drive ratio. What be could be wrong with that? There are times when you may want that low first gear, such as a parade. Frank

[Ol' Ron]

Let's not forget, we're talking "street vehicles" here. I do have a T-5 in the roadster..

[JSeery]

The stock Ford gears should give a good hint as to the best 1st gear. Depending on the transmission they were:

Ford 1st gear ratios were: 2.820, 3.114 & 3.520

Zephyr 1st gear ratios were: 2.820, 2.330 & 2.120

The 2.95 & 3.35 T5 gears are a fairly good fit, with the 2.95 being the better of the two.

There is really no reason to bring racing issues into a street gear selection discussion. With racing there are just be many variables and specific applications to have much relevance on street driving. Math is math and physics is physics, but the application/environment is very different.

[frnkeore]

My point was/is, that all of the T-5's (including the 4.03 first) are at least as good or better than the standard '39 (85 HP), gearing of 2.82, 1.604 and direct. The top 4 gears of the 4.03 trans are, 2.37, 1.5, direct and .82 OD. They are similar to the 26 tooth Zephyr of 2.33, 1.577 & direct, with a OD bonus.

Frank

[JSeery]

Guess we just have to disagree.

[frnkeore]

Originally Posted by JSeery

Guess we just have to disagree.

Yes

[Ol' Ron]

I don't call it a disagreement, just a difference of opinions. Allot of good information here, learn sumpin every day, Till they throw dirt un ya.

[flatford8]

I’ve learned a lot from this thread and this “ learn sumpin every day, Till they throw dirt un ya.“.....is now my philosophy on life!!!!....LOL.....Thanks, guys.....Mark

[Tim Ayers]

Funny, I remember something that Pete said a while back. With a hot flatland, LZ gears may help a guy not break as much stuff for the take off torque isn’t as high as a 28 or 29 tooth gear set. I may have to go this route with 296 ci and a tad over 200 hp

[Ronnieroadster]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

Funny, I remember something that Pete said a while back. With a hot flatland, LZ gears may help a guy not break as much stuff for the take off torque isn’t as high as a 28 or 29 tooth gear set. I may have to go this route with 296 ci and a tad over 200 hp

Oh boy there goes the fuel economy LOL

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by Ronnieroadster

Oh boy there goes the fuel economy LOL

Haha. Yeah and I have you to blame!

Well, I have a 1 mile commute to work. Between a full house flat head, straight exhaust headers made out of '36 Ford drive shafts and a light, AV8 roadster powered by a 296 ci flatty put together by one of the best out there, I think I'll be able to wake up the kids for school as I drive by.

[Ol' Ron]

Pete, I'll probably use something like that, but I don't think I;ll be doing aby drag racing with it. Circlr track is where it belongs. i had allot of fun there. I was glad they had all those rules, it kept the cost low enough for us to compete. When the rules changed to late models with OHV engines, the cost went up and the crowd went down and 2 years later they built a Maul over the place. I try to help the guys that want a reliable street vehicle, without spending an arm &leg on the wrong "Stuff"

[Pete]

Originally Posted by Ol' Ron

Pete, I'll probably use something like that, but I don't think I;ll be doing aby drag racing with it. Circlr track is where it belongs. i had allot of fun there. I was glad they had all those rules, it kept the cost low enough for us to compete. When the rules changed to late models with OHV engines, the cost went up and the crowd went down and 2 years later they built a Maul over the place. I try to help the guys that want a reliable street vehicle, without spending an arm &leg on the wrong "Stuff"

I quit pro racing many moons ago because it was taking up too much time and the cost was going up too fast. The traveling finally got to me also.
I think I enjoyed vintage racing more. We didn't have to make it pay and there was a LOT more partying involved.

I don't get too many inquiries about street engines other than cams but it takes me awhile to answer the email about circle racing each day. I like helping out.