Adding a 4 blade instead of my 2 blade fan.

[Benson]

My guess is that your timing light offset DIAL on rear of timing light might be set for 10 degrees advanced.

I tried to post photo but can not make it work.

Originally Posted by old31

CP, I have verified that when the pin goes in I am at TDC. I have one of those small cameras hooked up to my phone so i can see what is going on in the #1 cylinder while cranking and the pin drops in.

Frank, I really need help on your explanation. For me this would be timing and electrical for dummies 101.

When at idle at 400 and the lever is up, the timing gun shows 10 degrees advanced. At 1000 rpm or 2000 rpm the gun still shows 10 degrees advanced if i do not touch the lever. If i move the lever all the way down to my stop i get 25 degrees.

So, my question-issue-is: Shouldn't the gun be reading zero at idle with the lever up, instead of 10 degrees advanced? Especially with the pin just inserted at TDC and it is at zero..

This is the gauge that i am using.

https://www.brattons.com/ignition-ti...ator-only.html

[Benson]

Not likely but I suppose that the front crank pulley could have shifted if it is a two piece pulley, if notch in pulley is wider than notch in sleeve on crankshaft!

THis could move your timing mark on the pulley ...

[frank55a]

Originally Posted by old31

Frank, I really need help on your explanation. For me this would be timing and electrical for dummies 101.

As stated, there is a given delay in time in the primary to secondary ignition circuits in order to induce the secondary current flow to ground via the spark plug. This is basic electrical theory, the magnetic flux created in the coil's primary winding will collapse when the points open stopping the current flow in the primary circuit thereby inducing a current flow in the secondary high enough to jump the gaps to ground causing the spark at the plug to ignite the fuel air mixture. How it goes from 6V to several thousand volts is due to many more windings in the secondary. While approximately 0.002 seconds is very short if you do the math you can see there is considerable movement of the crank past TDC as the RPM increases.

Example: If the points were set to open at TDC what is the position of the crank when the spark ignites the fuel mixture in the cylinder at 400 RPM and 1000 RPM?

• Idling at 400 RPM how far does the crankshaft move past TDC in 0.002 seconds?
360 degrees x 400 RPM = 144,000 degrees/60 sec = 2400 degrees per sec/1000 = 2.4 degrees x 2 = 4.8 degrees The crank is 4.8 degrees past TDC when the fuel is ignited.
• 1000 RPM = How far does the crankshaft move past TDC in 0.002 seconds? 4.8 degrees x 1000/400 = 12 degrees The crank is 12 degrees past TDC when the fuel is ignited.

In conclusion: With the engine stopped (0 RPM) the crank at TDC you should read or assume "0" degrees. However, with the engine running and the timing light leads connected (depending on where they are connected) the crank will not be at "0" when the light flashes.

This is not new. This idea was well known quite a number of years prior to the Model A. While the A had a manual advance, other cars had some type of mechanical advance, then as the years pasted vacuum advance was introduced and now it is controlled by computers but the principal is the same.

[old31]

Yesterday I went for a 100 mile drive mostly at 55 MPH, outside temp was 85.

With the removed 50/50 mix and added 3 degrees the engine temps remained about the same. On the way home I removed the front license plate and that helped a little bit on dropping the engine temps.

Benson, I have a digital timing light. The 10 degree mark on the timing indicator has no bearing as to where I set the light. I can set the gun anywhere from 0-99 and it still shows 10 degrees on the engine timing indicator. So, bad wording on my part when i say "the gun shows 10 degrees" It just happens to show 10 degrees on the timing indicator after i put the pin in at TDC.

Katy, I will bring my IR gun on the next ride and use it on a run.

I am starting to lean to the radiator not being able to handle the heat at higher RPM's. Many have suggested that I rod out the radiator. What is the difference in cost of rodding vs a new radiator? Wouldnt it be less of a hassle just to install a new radiator?

Again, I did bring this radiator to a shop and he did say it was very good.

[WHN]

I’ll say it again, new correct radiator, engine side pans, new leak less water pump, and new aluminum two blade correct style fan.

I would not drive car at the operating temperatures you have talked about. Your cooling system is failing. Needs complete overhaul.

Fix it right the first time. Enjoy.

[katy]

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When you have the IR gun handy, the engine running, check the inlet and outlet temperatures of the radiator to see how much temperature differential there is. You can also move the IR across the front of the radiator to see how even the cooling (or lack of) is.
A radiator can look good, flow test good, but still not cool properly due to scaling inside, or the fins being loose on the tubes.
BTW, has the radiator been painted? If so, what kind of paint? Radiators require a special kind of paint for heat dissipation.