oil change question

[duffer]

First time changing oil in my 1930....where is the re -fill hole? And when i pulled the oil pan screw some anti freeze came out first...less than a cup.what is the problem there? car has been sitting all winter

[Mitch//pa]

it is not normal for coolant to get into the crankcase. drain the antifreeze out, retorque the cylinder head, refill it with straight water until your sure the problem is fixed. antifreeze will ruin the babbit
then run the car and retorque again after it cools down. keep an eye for more water in the crankcase by loosening the drain plug, any water will find its way out first. keep a ck on it for next few weeks. make sure the oil is not milky or you may want to flush things out
could be other causes but try this first and hope it works.
to fill the oil remove the breather cap next to the oil dip stick

do you have the les andrews repair book???

[ford3]

to add to what Mitch said, after retorquing head add some stop leak, Bars Leak works good, crush the pellets before adding to radiator

[Aok]

Also keep a eye on the dip stick if oil level is rising and the milky color. After you retorque the head and try some stop leak, say a prayer to the model A gods that it works.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Also when you add the new oil, 4 quarts is enough. If it's too full it's more likely to leak out the rear main.

[James Rogers]

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Originally Posted by duffer

First time changing oil in my 1930....where is the re -fill hole? And when i pulled the oil pan screw some anti freeze came out first...less than a cup.what is the problem there? car has been sitting all winter

You need a mentor. I would join a local Model A club before doing any more work to the car.

[Bob/Kansas City]

The oil fill tube is the tube just behind the generator and above the water pipe that goes to the bottom of the radiator.

[John Butts in CT]

Ahoy, Duffer: The ONE book you must own, read cover-to-cover, understand and follow is the manual that Ford supplied with with your car. Repros are cheap and readily available. Many of the questions posed by self-described "newbies" are addressed right there, in that slim volume. Enjoy your "A."

[Mikeinnj]

Sounds like you are new to the Model A's. As several people said it sounds like your head gasket may be leaking coolant into the combustion chambers. What the members are telling you to try is to re-torque the head bolts on the cylinder head.

You will need a 1/2 inch drive torque wrench and socket and there is a particular pattern that must be followed when torquing the nuts. This pattern can be found in the Bratton's parts catalogue about page 43 I think. The nuts need to be torqued evenly to 55 foot pounds in sequence. Do not go tighter or you will certainly break the stud off that the nut is fastened to. (real big repair job)

As also mentioned, the anti freeze contains silica and it will chew up the babbit bearings on the crankshaft and connecting rods causing you to have to have the entire engine re-built, so do not run the engine until all the anti=freeze has been drained and flushed from the oil pan and the valve chamber. This can be accomplished by performing a few back to back oil changes.

Add pure water to the radiator (takes 3 gallons) and try adding the stop leak additive after re-torquing the head bolts.

To drain the anti-freeze, take off the lower radiator hose, to assure that all the anti-freeze drains out, then re-attach the lower hose and fill the radiator with clean water (3 gallons) and then run briefly and drain the radiator again and re-fill it.

Be sure to refill the oil pan (through the filler tube, located on the driver side, between the generator and the starter) with 4 quarts 20-50 weight oil or straight 30 weight oil. Now warm the engine up and s l o w l y add the crushed Bars Leak (Brown liquid with pellets - crush the pellets all up) sealer to the radiator. - Only fill the radiator enough to cover the tubes so as to leave room for the stop leak. Run the engine for about 1 hour and let it cool off. Check the oil level with the dip stick and the color should be that of the fresh oil. If it is milky, the leak probably did not seal. Change the oil, re-torque the head nuts and run it some more.

If that does not solve the problem you will probably have to change the head gasket , re-torque it when hot and then after about an hour re-torque it again.If you do remove the cylinder head, carefully check the engine block deck (where the head sits) for cracks, especially at the edges of the cylinders and around the valve seats

NOTE : Never run the engine without water or oil being at the correct level. The engine takes 5 quarts when new, however, all subsequent oil changes use only 4 quarts. The reason being is that one quart always stays in the engine even though you drain 4 quarts from the oil pan, there is a "windage tray" in the oil pan that holds oil to lubricate the connecting rod bearings and also, the valve chamber and oil pump also hold some residual oil, so you can only drain 4 quarts and re-fill with only 4 quarts. Good luck, learn by reading and searching this site (search feature will bring lots of answers) and also by doing.