Forged gas sediment bowl crack repair...

[Steve Plucker]

We all have had one at one time or the other, well, some of us anyway. So you have a real nice forged gas sediment bowl with a hairline crack on it and when put on the car, gas weeps from the bowl.

What have you done, besides finding one that is not cracked, to fix the situation with any luck at all?

Thanks.

Pluck

[JDupuis]

Although I've "never" had to repair one.
My thoughts go to JB weld on exterior, an a gas tank sealant on the inside.
Would this sound like a feasible repair?
I await for the other suggestions.
Jeff

[mike657894]

I would braze it with brass

[wrndln]

Steve,
I think if you thoroughly bead or sandblasted the inside of the bowl first, especially where the crack is. Then make sure the sand or glass bead remnants are clean out well. Then apply a thin coat of JB Weld inside where the crack is, that should seal the crack permanently. Let the JB Weld cure for a few days to make sure it is "set" well before allowing gas in it. I always beadblastor sandblast my cast iron sediment bowls, inside and out. Usually there is a lot of rust deposits inside the sediment bowl, formed over many years. I have found sand or beadblastiing is much better at removing rust than rust removers like Evaporust and give an excellent base for paint, etc. This way the outside will look as original and a coat of paint or two will probably cover the crack.
Rusty Nelson

[jw hash]

they are cast iron not forged. first, I would throw it away. but if you must fit it, go to NAPA and get some gas tank patch sealer sand blast it real good and apply the sealer.
Pluck if you need a good one let me know, I do have a some

[redmodelt]

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Clean and silver solder or braze. Or replace with glass bowl type so you can see when it needs to be cleaned.

[Purdy Swoft]

I consider the cast iron sediment bulb to be the very best that was used on the model A .Ford must have also thought so because they went back to it in 31. I had one to freeze and crack years ago because there must have been some water in the gas . The cast cracked on the back side so the repair would be mostly hidden . I ground the area clean around the crack down to bare clean metal . I V notched the crack and brazed it up . I did not use any flux because clean metal needs none. Flux makes a mess that can't be covered up for any length of time with paint . I ground the repair smooth and painted it . It has held up for over 30 years . Only one person has ever noticed the repair. If the guy hadn't been looking real close he wouldn't have noticed where the paint had began to come off the brass repair .

[Tom Wesenberg]

Section it and use it for a display item.

[Russ/40]

A word of caution, JB weld is not a good solution for an internal repair. External is fine. I have run the experiment of full immersion of JB weld in gasoline, and it does not hold up long term when fully immersed. V notching the crack with JB externally in my testing has not yet yielded any failures.

[fundytides]

Brazed one several years ago and never had a problem

[Dollar Bill]

+1 I've had the same experience as Russ/40 with JB Weld & gas leak repairs.

[Mad Mac]

In my bulb the problem is a weak thread at the top. Anyone got any ideas about reconditioning the thread? There seems to be very little depth of thread, so not sure if a tap or die would achieve much. Maybe it was a design flaw to have so little thread on the sediment bulb?

[quickchange]

Mac I have a few here if you need in Nelson ,