1955 ford station wagon with a V8 302 Engine.

[scicala]

Are you really sure it's a Carter two barrel ? Ford never used a Carter two barrel carb on any engines I'm aware of. Plus a Carter doesn't have the accelerator pump diaphragm in the front. It's an internal piston. Your carb is probably an Autolite (Motorcraft) 2100 two barrel. They have the accel pump diaphragm on the front of the carb.
My opinion is you just have the bad luck of two problems at one time. The accel pump diaphragm will be available online or an auto parts store like NAPA, O'Reilleys or Autozone (one day order).


Sal

[poolplayer1]

Thanks Scicala for your response. In the morning I will check and see if its really a carter or not. Like you say,might be a autolite. I will check with the auto parts here locally to see if the acc pump diaphragm is available as a single part or whether I have to buy the complete rebuild kit. I thought that since the pump is now farther away from the block and thus the pump lever being farther back,that this was causing the problem.
I will find out tomorrow.
Mando

[poolplayer1]

Scicala, you were right about the carb., it is a ford motorcraft carb. I ordered the acc.pump diaphragm and installed it in the carb.and there is no more fuel leaking out of the acc.pump diaphragm.Its all good now.I was going to take it for a drive yesterday to see if its still vapor locking but decided to have the radiator flushed out since its very hot out here right now,114 degrees lately. Hoping to get the rad.back by tomorrow Friday or maybe sat.so that I can take it out for a road test.
I sure hope it doesn't quit on me anymore cause I sure hate to get stranded with this high heat.Will find out soon.
Mando

[5851a]

FRAM G3583 is a fuel filter with vapor separator, goes between pump and carb, has to be oriented correctly. You would have to run return line back to tank though. Sounds like electric helper pump may be easier.

[scicala]

Glad you fixed the leak issue. Keeping my fingers crossed on the vapor lock for you.


Sal

[poolplayer1]

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Thanks Sal. As soon as I get the Radiator back,,I will take it for a test run to see if it still quits on me. If it does shut off on me,what would be the best option for me, the G3583 fuel filter or run an Electric fuel pump. I understand that the electric pump has to be installed as close to the fuel tank as possible. Does the fuel filter also have to be just ahead of the fuel pump in the back or can I leave it close to the carb?
oh, by the way,do you or anyone here at the forum have the electrical wiring to the ignition switch that I can get? I was installing a usb port for my iphone when I accidentally busted a wire off the swich.Thanks to you and everyone else here.
Mando

[scicala]

Mando,


Since the G3583 filter requires a return line back to the fuel tank< I think an electric pump mounted close to the fuel tank is the best option. The fuel filter can be anywhere between the pump and carburetor, but for ease of replacing it, I would put it close to the carburetor.
I don't have the wiring info you need for the ignition switch, but there are a lot of helpful people here that do. Hopefully someone will respond.
If not, send a PM to "Hot Rod Reverend". He should have the info.


Sal

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by poolplayer1

. . .
oh, by the way,do you or anyone here at the forum have the electrical wiring to the ignition switch that I can get? I was installing a usb port for my iphone when I accidentally busted a wire off the swich.Thanks to you and everyone else here.
Mando

I have a couple '55 wiring diagrams but can't get to them for a few days.
Depending on the car model there are slight differences in how the large yellow 'Battery' wires connect to the Ign & Headlight switches. The '57 diagrams are very similar, esp around the Ign switch.
Here's one...
http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/t...re5765-195.jpg

However, the hardest part of fixing your broken wire is (of course) working upside down under the dashboard. You can unfasten the switch from the dash and it will hang down slightly by its wires to make the work a bit easier. There isn't much slack & if the wires are original to '55 they'll be brittle. There is a special tool to remove the bezel that holds the switch in place.

A. Did the wire break off of the crimp-on loop terminal holding it onto the switch stud? Find the loop terminal missing its wire and you'll know where it connects.

B. Can you tell which device or accessory isn't working? Knowing that will tell you if it should be on the Ign or Acc terminal. Most of the wires attach to the Acc terminal.

If it isn't that easy and the wiring is still oem colors, try to see what color the wire is and if it has a colored stripe on it.
Given that your car was converted from 6v '+' ground to 12v '-' ground, is outfitted with at least a 15yr newer engine (plus some new wiring and accessories) things could easily be different but...

Red with a blue stripe goes to the S (start) terminal stud in the center.
Red with green stripe goes to the C or Ign (coil) terminal on the switch, along with a Black & green stripe wire to power the original Oil and Gen dash lights.
The rest of the smaller wires connect to the "Acc" terminal.

[poolplayer1]

Thanks to both of you for your great help.I don't have my radiator back yet so have not taken it for a test run.Hopefully by Monday I'll have it all put together. I might end up putiing in a new electric fuel pump but won't know till I see if it still quits on me. I think the wiring diagram that is on the link is close enough to be able to check the wiring and connect the busted wire back to the switch. I converted the electrical system on this wagon back a few years ago from a 6v to a 12v. The only thing that I did not change was the ignition switch,its still original.Its always been driving ok.
Do you think that I should of changed the switch too or it'll be ok just using the old 6v ignition switch.I made the changes from 6 to 12v when I removed the V8 272 and installed a 302 engine.
Mando

[scicala]

Mando,


12 volt systems draw less amperage, so the switch should be fine. 6 volt systems generally have heavier wiring also. I had no problems years ago when I did the same to my '52 Ford.


Sal

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by poolplayer1

. . . The only thing that I did not change was the ignition switch,its still original.Its always been driving ok.
Do you think that I should of changed the switch too or it'll be ok just using the old 6v ignition switch.
Mando

My '55 was (mostly) changed to 12v by a prev owner. The Ign switch may have been original and was working fine, until after a few test drives with a replacement rebuilt engine.
In theory an original 6v Ign switch has contacts that will take more current than a replacement 12v version, but it's usually older & more worn too.
Mine started acting funny so I lubed the key cylinder and changed the switch for a newer spare I had on the shelf. If yours is working fine leave it alone, but having a spare is very handy.
.

[poolplayer1]

Thanks Guys.Yes,the switch is working good with no problems at all. Ok,one more question (Maybe more). I installed a new coil on this 302 and I transferred the ballast resistor that was mounted on top of the old coil case to the new coil.I understand that the purpose of this resistor is to drop the voltage to less than 12v to protect the points from burning premature.Is this correct? I noticed that the voltage on one side of the resistor is at 13.5v and about 10v at the other end.
Mando

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by poolplayer1

. . . I understand that the purpose of this resistor is to drop the voltage to less than 12v to protect the points from burning premature.Is this correct? . . .

Yes, having the points last longer was the original intent when electrical systems changed from 6v to 12v. I suppose it may help the coil run slightly cooler too.

In later years ignition coils were designed with an internal resistor so an external one was not needed.
It depends on which version you have, they often have a label on the outside:
'Use with External Resistor' or 'Internal Resistor'.

It's not unheard of to find an 'internal resistor' coil on an engine along with a ballast resistor or resistor wire. The voltage to the coil will be too low, which will reduce the intensity of the spark across the plugs, make the engine hard to start or run poorly.
.

[Michaeldig]

Hows it going? I used to be on these forums quite a bit a few years back. I sold my car do to needing some money, and also at the demand of my then wife. Since then I have lost the wife and am ready to put together another car. I was thinking of putting together a third gen t/a with a traditional engine. I was wondering if anyone had any advice or links they could send me to for tackling such a project. Thanks in advance for any help.

[scicala]

Welcome to the Ford Barn Michaeldig. If by T/A, you mean a Pontiac Firebird Trans Am, you probably won't get a lot of info here.


Sal

[poolplayer1]

Morning. Well,I finally got my radiator back from the shop.While I was waiting for the rad,i went ahead and replaced the water pump,thermostat housing,and the thermostat.After putting all this in along with the rad,I filled up the rad.with distilled water just to make sure that there were no leaks before I put in the antifreeze.I ran the engine for about 15 minutes and the gauge went to 205 degrees.I shut the engine off and withing a few minutes I heard a hissing sound and saw the bottom rad.hose had become loose and pushed back like almost coming off the neck of the rad.I know that I thighten the clamp real good so it was not that the clamp was left loose.Anyway,I let it cool off for awhile,pushed the hose back up its neck,filled it up with water and tried again.By the way,i also bought a new radiator cap.Ran it for about 10 minutes and saw the gauge go up to 210 degrees.I shut it off and withing a few minutes,darn hose became loose again and started leaking water.Again,I made sure the clamp was real tight.I have never come across a problem like this.Need some help with suggestions as to what may be causing this problem.The radiator looks real clean and there is no more rust in the water.Thanks for any and all the help I can get. By the way,Is there a way to check and see if I have a busted head gasket or cracked head? I hope not.I have a 302 engine in it.Man,if it isn't one thing,its another.Can't win for loosing.Oh well,it could be worse.
Mando

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by poolplayer1

By the way,Is there a way to check and see if I have a busted head gasket or cracked head? I hope not.I have a 302 engine in it.

Combustion Leak Detector - LISLE LIS-75500

[poolplayer1]

Thank you very much for the tip.
Mando

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by poolplayer1

...I filled up the rad.with distilled water just to make sure that there were no leaks before I put in the antifreeze.I ran the engine for about 15 minutes and the gauge went to 205 degrees.

I shut the engine off and withing a few minutes I heard a hissing sound and saw the bottom rad.hose had become loose and pushed back like almost coming off the neck of the rad.I know that I thighten the clamp real good so it was not that the clamp was left loose.

I let it cool off for awhile,pushed the hose back up its neck,filled it up with water and tried again.By the way,i also bought a new radiator cap.Ran it for about 10 minutes and saw the gauge go up to 210 degrees.I shut it off and withing a few minutes,darn hose became loose again and started leaking water.Again,I made sure the clamp was real tight.

Is the bottom hose the correct one (you have an engine swap with I assume the original radiator)? If pressure built up to that degree, the RAD CAP should have released some of the pressure. You might want to have the system pressure checked along with the replacement cap (may be able to borrow/rent tool from AUTOZONE).

Did you burp the system after refill? It may have air bubbles/air lock in the system.

Do you have any idea of the year 302 or 5.0L? If late serpentine design, the WP may be reverse rotation.

[KULTULZ]

BTW-


The IGN SW (B5A 11572-A) is the same 1952-1959 and both rated 6V and 12V.