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01-21-2022, 08:30 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Solihull, England.
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Broken stud removal with a new twist! + Engine stand mods! Machining time at Mart's!
Hello! Welcome to Mart's Garage. While building my last Flatty I realised my engine adaptor was bending. In Part 1, I set about strengthening it up using some handy material I had about the place. I had previously made some studs to use when bolting the block to the adaptor. I realised I could improve those so had a bit of quality time on the mill. While I was in the mood for some machining I made up some custom nuts to replace the nuts and multiple washers I had been using. All good simple stuff that makes the shop a better place to work in. Identifying weaknesses and making improvements is what we all like to do.
In Part 2, I show a broken stud being removed by drilling and welding. It worked well and might just represent one more weapon in the arsenal when dealing with those stubborn studs. So sit back and watch me getting one job out of the way and trying to make my shop equipment a little bit better one piece at a time. Mart. https://youtu.be/FhkV0M6-4UY |
01-21-2022, 10:11 AM | #2 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Chester Vt
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Re: Broken stud removal with a new twist! + Engine stand mods! Machining time at Mart
With alittle practice, you can burn them out with an a cutting torch. This only works on a through hole. I used your method for years, with liminated success and allot of time. The torch method is quick and doesn't hurt the block. Remember it doesn't work on a blind hole. George Perry thought me this.
Gramps |
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01-21-2022, 11:45 AM | #3 |
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Join Date: May 2010
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Re: Broken stud removal with a new twist! + Engine stand mods! Machining time at Mart
Well done Mart. Your hands-on problem solving skills are exceptional. Thanks for posting such a complete and detailed video. There is no doubt that drilling the 1/4 in. hole in the stud allowed the arc welding to work.
I would think it takes some skill to make sure the arc welding rod remains inside the 1/4 in. drilled recess and does not come in contact with the threads in the block that are above the broken off stud. Otherwise the broken stud could not be backed out if the threads above it were "buggered" up. Would it be possible to drill and tap the stud with a 1/4-28 LH thread and then back the broken stud out using a 1/4 -28 LH bolt? https://www.google.com/search?q=1%2F...hrome&ie=UTF-8 and https://www.amazon.com/Left-Hand-HSS.../dp/B006YIM8NY Does the welding heat the block enough to distort the deck surface or effect the hardness of the valve seats and surrounding cast iron block area? Last edited by 19Fordy; 01-21-2022 at 12:22 PM. |
01-21-2022, 01:25 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Finland
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Re: Broken stud removal with a new twist! + Engine stand mods! Machining time at Mart
Mart,
thanks for posting this. I allways enjoy your videos, them are real. You beat that stud, very good! I allways use TIG, much cleaner and safe. never drilled though, that was new to me. first weld build up then washer and finally nut. and then it is time for coffee. I believe a cup of tea in your part of world? I feel it is better wait till weld and stud cools before try to remove it. at least this works for me! |
01-21-2022, 02:48 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Marana, AZ
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Re: Broken stud removal with a new twist! + Engine stand mods! Machining time at Mart
Hi, Mart!
Yet another great video!! I was right there with you on the stud removal!! Have found that, and just as you said, your first weld is very important. I've done this by welding on a nut, with lots of weld build up between it and the broken stud in order to keep it from breaking away, but then each "operation" is different on these difficult patients!! Also, set my MIG toward the upper end of the amp range. Thank you again for posting!! |
01-21-2022, 03:30 PM | #6 | |
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Location: Liberty, KY
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Re: Broken stud removal with a new twist! + Engine stand mods! Machining time at Mart
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Quote:
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01-22-2022, 09:03 AM | #7 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Solihull, England.
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Re: Broken stud removal with a new twist! + Engine stand mods! Machining time at Mart
Thanks for all the input guys.
I only tried the gas axe once, it was a disaster. There are always more than one way to skin a cat. This method worked for me. THIS time. If I had some more to do I would try many variations on the theme. I did one recently and had to resort to drilling it out completely. That was 3/8 UNC though, a bit more difficult to get a good grip on with the welder. Thanks again for the interest. Mart. |
01-22-2022, 10:58 AM | #8 |
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Location: Reno Nevada
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Re: Broken stud removal with a new twist! + Engine stand mods! Machining time at Mart
On the initial stick weld. You should have quenched that spot with cold water. That will shock the bolt in becoming loose.
Then continue with another hit with the welder , then quench again. I have had 100% success with this process. Sometimes even surprising myself. Vic |
01-22-2022, 11:35 AM | #9 |
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Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: ohio
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Re: Broken stud removal with a new twist! + Engine stand mods! Machining time at Mart
Times 2 on what 19Fordy said. Dad was a machinest and he sure would have loved & enjoyed watching the things you do. THANKS Mart.
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01-22-2022, 12:30 PM | #10 |
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Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Albion PA
Posts: 1,677
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Re: Broken stud removal with a new twist! + Engine stand mods! Machining time at Mart
Mart,
Good job reinforcing the engine stand adapter and the custom attachment features! I never had a lathe of a mill. sure would be n ice to whittle out some parts! I must say you are persistant in the sxtraction of the broken stud. Personally I dont think I would have welded down inside the stud. Iy you had to drill that it would be hard. I have weld the washer and nut on several broken bolts or studs. Most of the time it works. Sometimes I have to drill and retap. Thanks for taking the time to film this and post it. Regards, Chris
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01-22-2022, 12:34 PM | #11 |
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 5,064
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Re: Broken stud removal with a new twist! + Engine stand mods! Machining time at Mart
I do like the idea of drilling the center of the stud - maybe only 1/4" or so down. This would give me more area for my TIG weld to adhere too - which in my mind would help the whole deal. I have some pesky blocks to work on this Spring/Summer, will have to try a few "new" methods. Thanks Mart - you gave me some ideas!
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