Front and Rear Spring Restoration

[WHN]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

I have heard conflicting info on this so I will yield to your knowledge but when you do go to their website it shows that due to tarriffs being imposed, there will be a price increase. Wouldn't those tarriffs only be imposed on imported raw goods?


As for a used spring being installed, how many original springs have you ever seen broken on a restored vehicle rendering the vehicle and its occupants in a dangerous or life-threatening situation?


I have disassembled plenty of spring assemblies with one broken leaf, and in all instances that I can remember the tie-bolt was broken too. This is generally caused by loose spring clip nuts. Maybe others can cite specific instances however the only broken main leaf
(A-5313 or A-5563-*) that I have ever seen or heard about failing is on springs when the eyes were heated and rolled the opposite way. Outside of that, you just do not find broken main leaves. The Ford design of the properly tightened spring clips and the spring clamps installed would keep a spring from coming apart even in the event one leaf did break (which happens in the tie-bolt hole area). One additional thought, how many Model-T springs have you ever heard failing, ...and remember these vehicles are between a decade or two older than the A springs with potentially subjected to more life cycles under more compromising road conditions?!?!!


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A-Spring states on their web site, “All products are USA made”. Snyder’s web site also lists their best quality show springs as USA made and they explain the process used to manufacture them including the type of steel used.

They are out there, for the GO car. Enjoy.

[MickeyT]

The instruction sheet that comes with "A" Springs says to use a "high pressure" grease to lub the leaves. I put on two of them , front and rear.

[Railcarmover]

What happens if a main leaf fails at the eye?the cars body drops about 1.5"on the broken side and the car continues to track straight. The radius rods (wishbone) hold the axle true,not the spring..running a loose wishbone ball with 90 year old studs way more dangerous than a 90 year old spring pack

[Bud]

Is there any evidence that Ford lubricated either the front or rear springs?

Be aware that the friction in a spring helps to dampen the force upon it. The friction turns the bending into heat. It also creates wear (thus the groove worn into the leaf). It would tend to make the ride a bit harsher. I doubt any Ford spring ever got lubricant once the vehicle left the dealer.

I have used MoS2 lubricant myself when I replaced my front spring with a reproduction. I bevelled the leaves before lubing and reassembling. I have not noticed any detrimental effects.

[cpf240]

Originally Posted by Bud

Is there any evidence that Ford lubricated either the front or rear springs?

The service bulletins clearly talk about proper spring lubrication when discussing the spring covers. Whether the springs were lubed during assembly is another question.

[Pete]

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Leaf springs.

For exposure to high cycle fatigue crack initiation one can undo accumulated local slip strain by reheat treatment.
High cycle fatigue crack initiation ocurrs from accumulated slip strain on a microscopic level.

To put it simply, a spring with NO cracks and not worn beyond original dimensional specifications can be re-arched and re-heat treated.
The cost in the past was about the same as an American made new spring.

As far as assembling a spring with no lube between the leaves, that idea came from a spring manufacturer wanting to sell more springs.

The best dry lube for leaf springs is Tungsten Disulfide, commonly called WS2.
MolyKote and Sliplate work well also.