‘36 window replacement - step by step guide

[50droptop]

Well, after cussing the drivers side window in last night, I determined there had to be a better way. So this morning, I took my time and found a very simple way to get the regulator and window installed requiring only 1 set of hands and no foul language. It’s so simple it literally took minutes to install. For clarification, this was performed on a ‘36 5W that used the later 8 bolt/screw regulator. Below are some assumptions (prerequisites) before starting.

-Both front and rear window channel fuzzies are installed inside the door.
-Glass has been measured and found to be relatively the same size as original.
-Window fuzzies are attached to the outside edge of the door (will help protect the glass and impossible to install once glass has been put in).
-Garnish molding and attached interior window fuzzy has been removed.
-Window channel/track is installed on bottom of glass and center guide roller has been removed.


Tools required:
Flat blade screw driver (install original screws)
7/16 box end wrench (window channel guide roller nut)
Drill with 1/8” bit
Spray grease

Steps:
**Front roller install**
1. Install the regulator in the door. Install all screws where they are holding loosely. The regulator has some forward and aft adjustment and the loose screws will allow the regulator to ‘find’ its place.
2. Use a window crank handle or small adjustable wrench to move the regulator arms to their bottom/lowest position.
3. Insert the window into the door with the forward edge facing almost straight down. The objective is to align the front track with the front roller on the forward arm. This arm will be visible in the big opening at the bottom of the door inner structure.
4. Once the front track contacts the roller, use one hand to squeeze the washer/spring while guiding the roller into the track. The other hand is topside supporting the back side of the glass which will be pointing skyward at about a 45 degree angle.
**I should state the I had used spray grease on the regulator before install and applied grease to the roller/spring/washer assembly**
5. Once the front roller is in the track, you will begin to slowly rotate the glass to the horizontal position, all while ensuring the front edge stays within the front fuzzy channel and the rear edge finds its way into the rear channel. In order for the glass to rotate, the roller will need to move within the channel and the glass will need to move slightly forward. Once the glass is horizontal the front roller will be close to the center of the channel.
6. As you move the glass to the horizontal position, there will come a point where the glass will need to be supported from the bottom rather than the top. As the glass lowers into the channel and door, the rear track will come to a rest on top of the rear roller. When this occurs, align the rear roller with the center of the rear track.

***Rear roller centered in track but not installed***
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/attac...1&d=1565383961
***

7. Once the rear roller is centered with the track (but not inserted) you’re ready to move to part 2, the rear roller install.

**Rear roller install**
8. While providing support, slowly crank the regulator to the upper most/top position. You will notice the front roller is in the track and the rear roller is simply centered with the rear track but not inserted.
9. While rolling the window up, just as it reaches the top, slide the window forward until it contacts the front fuzzy channel. At this step you will find the front roller is towards the rear of the front channel and the rear roller is just behind the front opening to the rear track.

***Photo showing drivers side front roller installed in track with window all the way up***
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/attac...1&d=1565384340
***

You will also notice there is about approximately 2” space between the rear edge of the glass and the back of the door. You will use this space to insert the rear roller.

***Gap between back side of window and door frame***
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/attac...1&d=1565384528
***This is the 2” gap that will be used to install the rear roller***

10. Slide the glass rearward until the rear roller is just clear of the track. Once clear, you will see you can now slide the glass forward and engage the rear roller into the track. Applying slight pressure from the outside of the glass, you can compress the washer/spring assembly while gently moving the glass forward. Once the glass moves forward, both the front and rear rollers should be nicely nestled in their respective tracks.

***Photo showing all rollers in the windows final up and forward position***
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/attac...1&d=1565384571
***Passenger side door shown above

**Center guide roller install**
11. Now that both rollers are in the track, gently lower the window again to its bottom/lowest position.
12. Install the guide roller using the 7/16” wrench to tighten the nut on the backside of the pin.
13. Lubricate the window track and guide roller at this step with sprayable white grease.
14. Once lubricated, gently begin to raise the window again. The window will need to be supported vertically since there is no garnish molding. You will raise the window about 1/2 way up and will likely feel resistance, or a stop. At this step, use the front to aft adjustment in the regulator to find the spot where the center guide pin enters the regulator smoothly. It may help to take a flashlight and look inside the door to best determine which way to move the regulator. Remember all the screws should be loose to allow the regulator to move. Gentle upward pressure on the crank handle while coaxing the regulator to move may help it ‘find’ its spot.
15. Once the center pin finds the regulator channel, you should be able to continue to crank the window up (with support so it doesn’t scratch on the metal tabs the garnish molding screws to). Watch as the window raises and finally moves forward into its final position.
16. At this point, tighten all screws holding the regulator to the door structure. Once tightened, work the window up and down to ensure smooth operation. I could always feel the spot there the center guide enters and exits the regulator, but there is little (if any) resistance and the window moves freely up and down.
17. Once satisfied with the operation of the window, the final step is to drill and install the ‘alignment’ sheet metal screw. There is already a hole in the door, just behind the top forward most regulator screw. Drill a hole in the regulator frame where the hole in the door structure is and install the sheet metal screw.

Now you’re complete and can go have a beverage of your choice.

[Tinker]

Installing 36 door windows are interesting as they roll up to the top of the frame, then move 2-3in forward.

[Jembow]

Thank you. This is a job I will have to do so I will bookmark this page.

[johndee138]

I too am bookmarking this, as I have been dreading the re installation of my window glasses after painting is completed

[50droptop]

Originally Posted by Jembow

Thank you. This is a job I will have to do so I will bookmark this page.

Originally Posted by johndee138

I too am bookmarking this, as I have been dreading the re installation of my window glasses after painting is completed

I should have mentioned to keep a rag handy to wipe any grease off your hands while coaxing the rollers into the tracks. Good luck and feel free to reach out if you have any troubles.

[TagMan]

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Excellent! I removed my windows 10-years ago and I'm sure I've forgotten how to reinstall them, which I hope to do this Fall. Thanks for taking the time and making the effort to post your notes.

[marko39]

Originally Posted by 50droptop

I should have mentioned to keep a rag handy to wipe any grease off your hands while coaxing the rollers into the tracks. Good luck and feel free to reach out if you have any troubles.

How similar is this to a 39? I am having a very hard time with the Tudor rear windows. Mark

[50droptop]

Originally Posted by marko39

How similar is this to a 39? I am having a very hard time with the Tudor rear windows. Mark

I wish I could comment but I don't have any experience with the windows on a '39. It may be good to post a new thread asking the question. I've found the group to be very helpful.

[JM 35 Sedan]

50droptop, thank you for posting this step by step guide on window replacement. I'll copy this for my "How to Do" book I keep. Someone sent me instructions like this for a fordor sedan, but it's always good to see how someone else approached the same job, maybe with some new tricks.

[marko39]

Originally Posted by 50droptop

I wish I could comment but I don't have any experience with the windows on a '39. It may be good to post a new thread asking the question. I've found the group to be very helpful.

After reading your instructions I think the mistake I made was putting the sheet metal screw back in the original hole.i see now you have to find the spot the regulator works and drill a new hole when reg. Is working. The difference is how the new glass was installed in the channel. If it was not exactly the same as factory, the reg. Has to move. It sounds very much like the 39. Thanks, Mark

[50droptop]

Originally Posted by marko39

After reading your instructions I think the mistake I made was putting the sheet metal screw back in the original hole.i see now you have to find the spot the regulator works and drill a new hole when reg. Is working. The difference is how the new glass was installed in the channel. If it was not exactly the same as factory, the reg. Has to move. It sounds very much like the 39. Thanks, Mark

That’s exactly right. The location of the channel on the glass will determine where the regulator ‘finds its spot’.

[marko39]

Originally Posted by 50droptop

That’s exactly right. The location of the channel on the glass will determine where the regulator ‘finds its spot’.

On a related subject, the garnish mounding must be installed bottom first. If you try it top first you risk breaking the glass prying the mouldind on. I broke new glass and invented some new vulgarities that day. Mark

[50droptop]

Originally Posted by marko39

On a related subject, the garnish mounding must be installed bottom first. If you try it top first you risk breaking the glass prying the mouldind on. I broke new glass and invented some new vulgarities that day. Mark

This is good info, as I have yet to install the molding.

[VeryTangled]

Now I understand why the whiskers are missing on my 35. Oopsie, idiots working for previous owner left them out before the glass went in.

[marko39]

Originally Posted by VeryTangled

Now I understand why the whiskers are missing on my 35. Oopsie, idiots working for previous owner left them out before the glass went in.

On my 39 I installed the whiskers after the glass was in, just rolled down the window. True, it should be done before the glass goes in. Mark

[Karl Wescott]

Originally Posted by VeryTangled

Now I understand why the whiskers are missing on my 35. Oopsie, idiots working for previous owner left them out before the glass went in.

Whiskers were a 1936 innovation, 1935 used bumpers on the bottom of the garnish and bottom of window opening.

[50droptop]

I’ve added some additional photos to help clarify things.

[VeryTangled]

Originally Posted by Karl Wescott

Whiskers were a 1936 innovation, 1935 used bumpers on the bottom of the garnish and bottom of window opening.

Thank you for that great info Karl, I'm in the market for some replacement bumpers for a Fordoor now.

[Shadetree2187]

I understand the need for glass location in the channel. My drivers side measurement is 1 3/16" from the glass back edge at the fuzzys to the channel end where the glass sits. Since the glass was missing on the passenger side, is there a starting point for glass placement? My mockup was used 3 times before falling apart. 1 3/16", 1 1/16", and 1/2" were my tries. The last time both rollers came off the channel. I am assuming the regulator is original as seems to be the case for the rest of the car. Frustrating!

[36 3-window]

50droptop - thanks for this timely post. My husband and I are fighting with a 36 3 window drivers side right now. Passenger side went in with no problems, roller pin engages, window rolls up, goes forward and is great. Driver's side is not so cooperative. Have tried 3 different regulators, repositioned glass on the channel so that front edge of glass is 15 1/4 in. from the roller stud hole on channel, adjusted regulator forward and aft and still having an issue. The window rolls up but binds about 1 1/2 inch from top - using a mirror and flashlight we see that the roller pin enters the cutout but just stops before it finishes the arc. It's doesn't finish the up motion and doesn't move forward. Funny thing is that when we remove the roller pin the window goes up and moves forward (due to the nature of the regulator arms). Anyone else have this issue? Any suggestions would be much appreciated.