Go Back   The Ford Barn > General Discussion > Late V8 (1954+)

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 01-20-2020, 05:36 PM   #1
cavecreekjake
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 24
Default 312 rear main seal

Can the rear main seal be replaced without pulling the engine?
Thanks
cavecreekjake is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-20-2020, 06:23 PM   #2
Dobie Gillis
Senior Member
 
Dobie Gillis's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Middle TN
Posts: 548
Default Re: 312 rear main seal

Yes, if you can get the pan off. You may need to drop the drag link. Also may need to rotate the crank to get the counterweights up out of the way of the pan unless you're really lucky.
__________________
Diapers and politicians should be changed often and for the same reason.

Mark Twain
Dobie Gillis is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
Old 01-20-2020, 07:58 PM   #3
miker98038
Senior Member
 
miker98038's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Kent, WA. Tucson, AZ
Posts: 754
Default Re: 312 rear main seal

I replaced the rear main on my 312 with the engine in place in my roadster. I used the Best Garket black neoprene seal, and followed the instructions by Ted Eaton. One caution, Best made some silicone seals that were orange, and they failed often under 500 miles. That's what I replaced. If you get one (and you shouldn't, they should all be gone) don't use it.

Ted's article

http://www.eatonbalancing.com/2008/0...-y-and-others/
miker98038 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2020, 03:04 PM   #4
cavecreekjake
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 24
Default Re: 312 rear main seal

Ok - thanks Guys...will give it a shot. Canít leak any more than it does now! Thanks
cavecreekjake is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-23-2020, 07:44 PM   #5
harleyjohn45
Member
 
harleyjohn45's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 50
Default Re: 312 rear main seal

Quote:
Originally Posted by cavecreekjake View Post
Can the rear main seal be replaced without pulling the engine?
Thanks
Jake, my engine is probably 35 years since it had gaskets. I had several small leaks, enough to really upset me. I changed oil to mobile 1 and added 1 qt of Lucas stop leak, I also added a little of the transmission stop leak and a little power steering stop leak. That was a year ago and I drive the car often. Every now and then I see a drop. Getting oil leaks out of a 63 year old car is a task.
If the only leak you have is a rear main, then it would probably be a good idea to replace the rear seal.
Good luck

Wrong car, the car I was referring to, is a 1956 Ford Fairlane 292

Last edited by harleyjohn45; 01-23-2020 at 07:57 PM. Reason: correction
harleyjohn45 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2020, 05:35 PM   #6
Sid
Senior Member
 
Sid's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Rathdrum Idaho
Posts: 642
Default Re: 312 rear main seal

If you still have the rope seal still you will need to get creative to remove it. Slightly loosen the main caps and make some little picks and needle nose pliers to remove. That's the hardest part. And as miker98038 stated use only the black colored "Best" Brand seal. I have found it best to slightly clock the new seal slightly when installing. Maybe 1/4-3/8" and either red silicone or Permatex "Right Stuff" on the cap mating surface. Silicone is okay as long as you aren't too messy. Clocking probably is not necessary but it helps seal the mating surface. Before installing the side rails put a little sealer in the groove first. The new seal should have a horn to help getting it started around the crank. I myself prefer Permatex.
Sid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2020, 07:21 PM   #7
Ole Don
Senior Member
 
Ole Don's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: St. Michael, Minnesota
Posts: 1,547
Default Re: 312 rear main seal

I have seen more leaks at the holders mount than the actual seal. Make all the parts very clean, use lacquer thinner or acetone and Q Tips. The threads on the two bolts too. Use sealer very sparingly, but very accurately.
Ole Don is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2020, 08:07 PM   #8
miker98038
Senior Member
 
miker98038's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Kent, WA. Tucson, AZ
Posts: 754
Default Re: 312 rear main seal

First I saw this tool I was 16. I'm 70, so it's been around for a while. Don's right about the seal retainer.

Look at Ted's site about offsetting the seal. I linked it above.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-27000-S.../dp/B0002SRCJW
miker98038 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2020, 08:48 PM   #9
Sid
Senior Member
 
Sid's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Rathdrum Idaho
Posts: 642
Default Re: 312 rear main seal

[QUOTE=Ole Don;1845606]I have seen more leaks at the holders mount than the actual seal. Make all the parts very clean, use lacquer thinner or acetone and Q Tips. The threads on the two bolts too. Use sealer very sparingly, but very accurately.[/QUOTE

On a 312 don't rule out a cracked block either.
Sid is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:44 PM.