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Old 04-19-2016, 05:36 PM   #1
waterboychuck
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Default Painting

I am beginning to start to paint my 46 coupe. Right now it's just the body with doors off. I was thinking if it were to better for me to paint the inside of the doors along with the jams and do the same on the body alon with any other interior paint and then install the doors for paint. I'm thinking that would allow me to lay down the paint with the doors on and not have any variations in color etc. I plan on using PPG single stage concept. Am I right on thinking this?

Thanks
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Old 04-19-2016, 05:57 PM   #2
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Default Re: Painting

I painted my Roadster all apart with concept,no problems with matching....
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Old 04-19-2016, 06:21 PM   #3
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Default Re: Painting

Quote:
Originally Posted by waterboychuck View Post
I am beginning to start to paint my 46 coupe. Right now it's just the body with doors off. I was thinking if it were to better for me to paint the inside of the doors along with the jams and do the same on the body alon with any other interior paint and then install the doors for paint. I'm thinking that would allow me to lay down the paint with the doors on and not have any variations in color etc. I plan on using PPG single stage concept. Am I right on thinking this?

Thanks
Using the above method is the safe and prudent approach! Especially with the cost of paint these days.
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Old 04-19-2016, 07:25 PM   #4
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Default Re: Painting

Problems are more apt to happen if you are using a metallic color. They are very sensitive to air pressure and distance from the gun to the painted surface. Non metallic color you are most likely fine.
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Old 04-19-2016, 07:46 PM   #5
waterboychuck
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Default Re: Painting

One problem that I think may become real is if I painted the doors off the body I would have to be very careful when installing them. Right now the body is off of the frame and I was thinking that I have to paint the firewall before I can put the body on the frame and then finish, but I thought that I would also do the interior of the car including the door frames and rockers and then do the inside of each door including the frames leaving the outside skin to be done later.

Am I overthinking this?
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Old 04-19-2016, 08:32 PM   #6
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Default Re: Painting

Metallic or solid color?
You should also paint the hood and trunk lid with the doors and body if metallic.
Paint the cowl and fit body to frame bolted down last time. Fit doors to openings and pull hinge pins for paint if you paint the doors off the body.
Or leave doors on and with door check arms removed, so that the doors open wide, you could spray them on the body.
The difficult area to spray with doors on is the hinge post, the leading edge of the doors and the door bottoms.
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Old 04-19-2016, 08:49 PM   #7
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We assuming it is solid color. That said, Paint it in as many pieces as you want. You can paint the inside of the doors and later turn them over and paint the outside skins, etc. If you are not a highly skilled painter, doing individual pieces a side at a time allows you to hang them in a perfect position for painting and have plenty of room to work around each piece. if something goes wrong, you can just stop.
You will have no problem with color. You should not worry about damaging the parts when you hang them on the car. Since you painted it, you will be unbelievably careful.
My opinion
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Old 04-20-2016, 04:52 AM   #8
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Default Re: Painting

Have the doors hanging or off to paint the edges and jams .then mask them hang them then spray the out side as one unit ,Even with solid colour you can sometimes get a colour change , depending on the clear content or thinning ratio .When I worked on the line in the 60s the doors were always on a frame next to the opening ,this insures the texture is the same .Ted
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Old 04-20-2016, 05:08 AM   #9
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Default Re: Painting

Ted is correct, with a disassembled vehicle texture is important. By paying close attention to your mix and air pressure you can have a matching texture to give the car visual appeal. Remember, thinner paint mix, higher air pressure, and slower dry times equals less texture. Thicker paint mix, lower air pressure, and faster dry times equals more texture. By thicker paint mix as little as a spoonful of reducer per gun full of paint can change the flow rate. Air pressure the same, 5 psi can make a difference, and temperature variations can affect flow out. Don't try to paint in extremely high humidity unless you have a good drier in your air supply, hazing and color spotting can happen. A dash of retarder can stop it, but then your texture will be affected (smoother). Gary
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Old 04-20-2016, 01:02 PM   #10
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I made an assumption that you are going to wet sand and buff the paint when you are done. Therefore there will be no "texture" when you are finished.
Concept, like Nason are single stage paints and can be easily color sanded and polished to a perfect finish.
If you are just going to leave it in "gun finish", then there are lots of issues unless you are a really good painter.
I am not a great painter ,but 3000 grit and Norton ICE makes me way better than I am.
Just an opinion
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Old 04-20-2016, 03:49 PM   #11
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Default Re: Painting

Maybe the OP will answer solid or metallic?
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Old 04-20-2016, 05:20 PM   #12
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Default Re: Painting

The car will be a solid maroon which I will have matched using the cowl vent. I also do plan on wet sanding as I'm doing this in my shop and not a painting booth. Right now I have made a device that hold each door off the ground and I can also roll this unit around but not real happy with it as it might be a little low . I've attached a photo.
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Old 04-20-2016, 05:34 PM   #13
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Default Re: Painting

Chuck, I can't offer any advise for painting, but I am glad you're up and around now. The foot must be a lot better now.
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Old 04-20-2016, 06:14 PM   #14
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Default Re: Painting

OK a solid color so you can paint pieces.
Your door fixture won't allow access to the door bottom so I would spray coats of color to hiding on the door bottoms, immediately hang them on the fixture and proceed with the remainder.
Be sure to extend the color on the interior side a few inches past where the edge of the upholstery panel edge will be.
Don't ask how I know this.

Also some around the interior of the window opening.
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Old 04-20-2016, 09:42 PM   #15
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Default Re: Painting

I would, and have, painted the doors on the car. Doors are very heavy and even if you have two or three bodies lifting them into place, the odds of damaging the paint while lining up and installing pins is pretty high. Just my opinion. Good for you for doing it yourself. It is tedious and frustrating at times, but the satisfaction level is amazing.
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Old 04-21-2016, 09:46 AM   #16
waterboychuck
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Default Re: Painting

Another thought that I had was to lay the doors on the outside skin and then spray the inside, the bottom and the edges of the door. Once dry I could then install them on the car and resume to paint.
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Old 04-21-2016, 10:41 AM   #17
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Default Re: Painting

That method would require a lot of masking to prevent over spray on the previously painted areas.
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Old 04-21-2016, 11:07 AM   #18
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Default Re: Painting

I understood waterboychuck to be saying he was thinking about painting the inside and edges of the doors off the car and the outside surface on the car. To me any overspray through the door gaps wouldn't be an issue and no more of problem than any method of painting the doors on the car.
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Old 04-21-2016, 12:09 PM   #19
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Again it all depends on your skill and confidence as a painter. Some guys on the barn can lay on a glass like finish with a street broom. Me, not so much. I did my 32 by painting pieces and painting one side at a time. I did mask off the "other side" each time I painted. Yes, it does take time, but it is cheap and not so much of a skilled job to do more masking. It does provide a much better chance to a great outcome for the not-so-skilled. And nothing takes more time than screwing up a painting session. Masking and painting each side is a safe way for the common guy.
My opinion.
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Old 04-22-2016, 03:35 AM   #20
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Default Re: Painting

hello

i have a 35 rodster, what is the original colors from 1935 ?
best regard's
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