1930 tudor rebuilt motor

[kwisor]

hello all
as many of you know i had james at dreamworks rebuild my motor on my 1930 tudor today was the first day i could take it down the road and i didnt go far but boy this motor ran like a it never has before pleanty of power if anyone needs a rebuild i would highly recomend him to anyone i cant wait till the body is done and i can realy drive her
kevin
1930 model a tudor
1923 model t

[Cider Mill]

What kind of build did you do? Stock original, counterbalanced crank, different cam? I am curious because I am about to have one rebuilt up here in CT.

[kwisor]

hello
this was a long block with babbitt bearings,oversize intake valves( upgrade),hi-compression head (snyder 5.5) and recondition flywheel
kevin

[ctvpa]

Before you make a decision, take a visit to http://www.jandm-machine.com/project...ianModelT.html

J& M Machine Company
40 Mt. Vickery Road,
Southborough, MA

They are not far from you. They did mine and they 'go the extra mile' by sending you email photos of your engine, and everything is balanced.

If you are in Conn, you really should stop by their shop, they will give you a tour. They are not limited to Model A or T, they do all antique engines. While mine was there they were doing a Rolls Royce, Pierce Arrow and other high end work.
When I toured the place he said "Model A or Rolls Royce, we treat them all with the same attention. Very nice guys to work with.

[kwisor]

today adj the motor some more and took it futher on a drive i only have the frame no body anyway she ran great i look forward to getting body back on and see what she will do i still have stock set up on the dist but have order the modern upper plate and wirless lower plate new cap rotor and coil hope to put that on this weeknd if it comes in time
kevin
1930 model a tudor
1923 model t roadster

[flathead 1150]

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I been driving a fresh rebuilt engine done by J & M machine with high compression head and balanced engine the engine performs great. Check out their website or,. give them a call.
they are not far from where I live in Shelton,CT.

[Herb Concord Ca]

You might want to give second thoughts on the lower "wireless" plate. The reports on this site about them has not been good.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Wait a minute........you have a stock distributor that runs great and you want to put in the "modern upper wireless plate" which is known to cause problems?

If it ain't broke.........fix it until it is!

[James Rogers]

I would not use the "wireless" plate. If you want to use modern points, use the one with a wire but, like Tom says, they cause problems. I try to use original parts and have lots of spares but have used the modern points with good success if I use a wired plate.

[Mitch//pa]

The wireless plate should come with a free AAA membership

[Kurt in NJ]

For some people the "modern" wireless,and "modern" points are good, they have too much time and need to have problems to occupy them,and a destination to visit(NAPA)

Most modern production point sets I have seen lately have not been of the same quality as a quality point set from the 70s, it seems that the quality production lines are gone, only the cheapo junk production lines are still working--most recently I had to use a modern production set from Bosch --usually good quality, now look like the cheapest, the point contacts are chrome plated and the badly moulded rubbing block was only 2/3 the width of the old fibre ones ---now I clean up original points whenever I can for customer cars ---on my own car I am still using the points that came with it(40 years ago)and for replacement I have a set of nos I got at Hershey---the A&L "burn out proof" condenser is good, I have tried to cook it, got it hot enough to melt solder and it has still worked --have 20 years on it---with it there is no need to try and hide a "modern " one on the plate.