wheel studs

[Ol' Ron]

Putting a set of aluminum wheels on a set of 1940 hubs and the studs are about 1/2| short. any idea where to get longer ones?? Be a big help.
Gramps

[A bones]

Hey Ron, looked several places. The best result was from Speedwaymotors.com Several choices by searching "1940 Ford axle lug studs over length for aluminum wheels

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by A bones

Hey Ron, looked several places. The best result was from Speedwaymotors.com Several choices by searching "1940 Ford axle lug studs over length for aluminum wheels

It ain't that simple, believe me! Just removing the factory studs is no easy process....IF DONE CORRECTLY. To remove, the swage must be cut away on each stud with a 5/8" hole saw. Then, you must press each stud out the back side, taking care to support each stud being pressed with a tubular support to press the stud's head into. If un-supported, you WILL bend the hub flange.....NOT COOL!

Your best bet will be to find a DORMAN stud of the length you need, that has a 0.600" diameter shank with something like about a 0.621" knurl diameter. You'll have to ream the five stud holes to the 0.600" diameter before pressing studs into flange, WITH A SIMILAR TUBULAR SUPPORT backing-up each stud when pressed into flange.

Coop

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[cas3]

And, I'm sure Ol' Ron probably knows this, but anytime you replace studs check your lug nuts often as they can loosen up if a stud is not seated all the way down

[John R]

The online Dorman hardware catalog is the best source for finding wheel studs. It lists their line of wheel studs with each stud shown in a photo with complete specs including knurl diameter, shoulder diameter and length and overall length. There are a huge number of 1/2 inch studs available.
John

[Newc]

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40-41 hubs use 'shorty' studs and the Ford wheels have 'innie' nut holes. Newc

[Ol' Ron]

Thanks Coopman and others for this information. I've never done this beore and have a fellow near by who has. He asked me to get the studs and he'll install them. I realize tha just wacking the old ones out and ponding the new ones in isn't quite right. It depends on the "stupid factor" for men, we wake uo with a rather low 2 to 3 SF. girls are near zero when they wake up. However it gets worse as the day goes by. Starts to get expensive when it gets over 6 or 7.
Gramps

[Mart]

Call me old fashioned, but don't we use lug nuts on alloy wheels? The shank of the nut extends down the oversize hole in the wheel. It is not normally necessary to fit longer studs.
Like the Mag seat lug nuts in the image.

[Ol' Ron]

Thanks Mart, but I don't want to modify the wheels to use thedifferent nuts.. Might change them if I were to go racing.
Gramps

[rich b]

Might be smart move to go over what procedure the fellow that has "done it before" used previously plans to follow this time.

Removing swaged studs from early Ford hubs and reinstalling splined studs is entirely different deal as outlined by V8Coop above.

I use the following studs; but you would need to check to see if these will work with your aluminum wheels.

Dormann 610-234 studs are 1-5/8" long and require the hole be opened up to .60 and the head clipped.

[corvette8n]

I had my local NAPA machine shop remove the old studs and put in longer ones. The guy that works at my local shop says he rebuilds about 1 flathead a month.

[Bored&Stroked]

Hey Ol' Ron - most mag/aluminum wheels are specifically designed to use a long shank lug nut. Measure the diameter of the wheel holes - as well as know if they have a taper at the top for centering. There are 'standard' designs that many brands use.

I recently purchased a set of Rocket Racing Wheels - their 'Igniter' series (kind of a Halibrand copy) - they work fine on early Ford hubs, but you have to buy the correct style/length of lug nuts to reach down through the thick aluminum flange.

[Ol' Ron]

Well, the only wheels that I could fing came from a 91/2010??? Jeep GC 16 x7 5x 5.5. However the addition of the brake rotor complicated the issue. Working with a limited budget.
Gramps

[alchemy]

Here is how I did it.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...-hubs.1128114/

Scroll down to the end to see the studs and methods I ended up using. Hopefully the non HAMB members can see the pics.

[larrys40]

Ron
I got some 1 1/2 inch long studs recently from cw moss for new drums with old hubs I was doing for a guy who is using 35 wires in the later drums. The studs worked out fine and were a bit longer as needed.
Larry

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by alchemy

Here is how I did it.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...-hubs.1128114/

Scroll down to the end to see the studs and methods I ended up using. Hopefully the non HAMB members can see the pics.

This link BELOW that "alchemy" has posted has some great information for a "BACK-YARDER" undertaking this stud replacement.


https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...-hubs.1128114/

For anyone not able to see the pictures, these four pics should tell the story. BIG PICS for RON.

Coop








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[Ol' Ron]

Yes, I see how it has to be done, but I'll leave it up to the professionals. I nosiest the hub in the photo had another bolt postern, I was going to buy a set of aluminum Ford hubs with the 3 on 4.5 wheel pattern because there are so many wheels with tthis pattern, however, thes cost almost 700bucks for the pair, I have several grand in the chassis and almost the same in the engine, IF??? I ever get it running, i will need a sponsor to get it to louden for it's 100 mile per lap. be awhile tho.
G

[Yoyodyne]

Originally Posted by Ol' Ron

I nosiest the hub in the photo had another bolt postern,

Just about anyone with a Bridgeport mill can put an extra bolt circle in those hubs. I have a friend who taps the hub to 1/2-20 and screws socket head capscrews in from the rear for studs so he can just screw them in and out while still on the car

[alchemy]

My 40 hubs in the picture were some swap meet purchases (probably about $30 worth, I'm a cheapskate) that had been used for a hot rod in their mid-life. I thought they would enjoy returning to an old Ford pattern in their twilight years. They did. Now they can either get a nice original Ford drum slipped over them, or a pair of the new Boling Brothers repro drums. The studs are long enough for either.

I had my buddy with a mill do the oversized drilling, mostly because he could center every hole. But also because he had the odd size bit. After he was done I ground the one side flat on the stud head, then pressed them in with my Horrible Freight 20 ton press. My part took about an hour for two hubs.

One other thing I want to point out, is that I had the face of the hubs trued on a brake drum lathe before I pressed in the studs. I wanted to be sure they would have zero wobble in them after a lifetime of abuse.

[Pete]

Just remember one thing, you can NOT run an alloy wheel directly against a thread. (At least not for very long)

[Ol' Ron]

Learned allot here. Now that I have the new wheels I can check stud length and get new ones. I'll post his. However I won't be doing this right now, chassis. however this won't take place rightt now, we're just about ready to take it out for a test ride, to make sure everything is working as plaanned. I just got a seat in it and the steering wheel is in the wrong place. Not bad for a street machine, but needs to be changed. I will have some videos of this, I can have my grand kids post them
Stay tuned.
Gramps

[Randy in ca]

Originally Posted by Pete

Just remember one thing, you can NOT run an alloy wheel directly against a thread. (At least not for very long)

Lost me here - can you clarify?

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Randy in ca

Lost me here - can you clarify?

Think about how the special seat works in combination with internal threads to fully support aluminum wheel. Using correct lugs here, there's no way that the threads could rub directly on aluminum wheel holes. Coop

[Ol' Ron]

Like they say, Learn sumpin everyday, till they throw dirt on ya.
Gramps

[Bored&Stroked]

If the allow wheel was originally designed for a lug-nut with a shoulder/sleeve that went down into to the wheel, then that is what I'd be running.

[Pete]

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If the wheel was designed for taper seat nuts that is all that will work right, BUT, many of the earlier wheels were designed for pin drive and required sleeve type nuts.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Pete

If the wheel was designed for taper seat nuts that is all that will work right, BUT, many of the earlier wheels were designed for pin drive and required sleeve type nuts.

Those are the ones that I was really looking for. It was well beyond getting-late, and I was having a hard time finding an appropriate picture....SORRY guys!

BUT....To save the day, here is a picture of the type that Pete is talking about.

Coop

[Ol' Ron]

Yes Coop, I've considered this. We;ll see, after we drive it with the original 40 wheels and tires. Too many things to consider right now.

[Bored&Stroked]

Also, there are mag wheel nuts that include BOTH a tapered seat (like at 60 degrees) as well as a long shank that goes down into the flange. It is important to have the right ones for the given wheel brand/type.

[Pete]

I wonder how many wrecking yard alloy wheels are dye checked before installing on a hot rod?

[Ol' Ron]

The yard I use has a wrecking yard for car parts. Once a car/truck reaches a certian age it's scrapped in another yard. The"NEW" yard sells parts to the public. I have access to both, unfortunately, The wheels I wan come from older models and these have been removed and crushed foe aluminum. AND the "NEW" ones are very expensive, I was luckey to find these.
Gramps

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Pete

I wonder how many wrecking yard alloy wheels are dye checked before installing on a hot rod?

Fortunately for our collective eyeballs, there ain't many folks using wrecking yard alloy wheels on real hot rods these days.

Coop

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[rich b]

Thought only the old Jeeps had 5 on 5-1/2 steel wheels and the modern kind had 5 on 5 alum wheels.

[Ol' Ron]

There are several cars that had 5 on 51/2, but I wanted 16X7/8 wheels and these were few and far gone by know. For Pates information, IF 9big IF) this car ever gets on a race track, allot of things will have to change, let me get it running first!!