stuck 8BA

[46international]

I picked up a stuck 8BA motor the other week and I'm in the process of taking it apart and seeing what I got. First the pistons are stuck real good, there may be one or two that will come out easy but most are stuck. I think I can deal with that part, the real problem is the valves, lifters and cam, They are all junk so I don't have a problem cutting off the valve stems and the heads of the valves and driving the guide and all out. The hardest part of this would be cutting the heads of the valves that are closed. Planning on using a torch to burn the heads off. Any better ideas?
The biggest problem is the main oil galley, it is rusted through (mice nest) can they be replaced? in a cross section view in a Motor's Manual it looks like it is a pressed in tube that could be installed from one end or the other. Has anyone done this?

[flatford8]

I think John Lawson (JWL) removed and replaced one in his book but I don’t have it handy. A torch right in the center of the valve head? I don’t see why that wouldn’t work……Mark

[Frank Miller]

Torch them all open or closed up towards the guide. Now remove the lifters. Yo can probably get a punch on the stuck ones. Now that the lifters and hopefully the cam are out you can go through the lifter holes on the stuck valves and open them. The stuck open will probably drive the guide down to remove the lock. If you have a tool you can probably mangle the locks off and drive the whole thing up.

[Tim Ayers]

Before you tackle that main oil gallery pipe, I'd strip it down and make sure it's good first. If it all checks out, then it would be worth replacing that pipe.

As others have mentioned, it sounds like the red wrench is going to be friend here. Torch it all out and go from there.

Sometimes too much force causes damage. I've read a few times of guys cracking cylinders by driving stuck pistons out of the bore using too much force.

Soak, soak, soak for as long as you can before taking this engine apart.

[tubman]

Fill the valley with charcoal, fire it up and put a piece of sheet metal over it. Let it go until it's cool (which may take several days). It's a last ditch procedure that has worked for some in the past.

[46international]

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Thanks for all the ideas on this, I have been working on the valves this morning and glad to say it's going pretty good so far. They don't cut very good with a torch, it's more like melting stainless or cast iron but I got more than half of them out. I decided to take a little break on the valves and rolled it over to try to get the crank out or at least loosened up some. The last stuck motor I messed with was a Y block and this is so much easier to do with the shorter crankcase. So far the block looks ok, just the standard cracks at the bolt holes to the water jacket holes, no cracks at the valve bowels or the pan rail.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by 46international

Thanks for all the ideas on this, I have been working on the valves this morning and glad to say it's going pretty good so far. They don't cut very good with a torch, it's more like melting stainless or cast iron but I got more than half of them out. I decided to take a little break on the valves and rolled it over to try to get the crank out or at least loosened up some. The last stuck motor I messed with was a Y block and this is so much easier to do with the shorter crankcase. So far the block looks ok, just the standard cracks at the bolt holes to the water jacket holes, no cracks at the valve bowels or the pan rail.

Sometimes, depending on where the piston is stuck, that rod will not allow the crank to rotate enough to come out. You may need to torch a rod or two in order to help with crank removal.

Good luck!

[Pete]

A plasma cutter will work much better than a torch. Lots less heat involved.

[46international]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

Sometimes, depending on where the piston is stuck, that rod will not allow the crank to rotate enough to come out. You may need to torch a rod or two in order to help with crank removal.

Good luck!

cutting a rod or two would make it a lot easier but I would like to save the rods if I can. I think I will add some oil down on the bottom of the pistons today and let it sit a while. I hope I can drive out the couple pistons that are at the top of the bore.

[46international]

I wish I had a plasma cutter but I think I only have two more valve heads to go and a lot of the stems have been breaking when hit with a hammer/punch so that part is going good. At least so far.
How common is it to have the pal nuts on the rods? This motor still has them and a fiber cam gear. Maybe no one has been in it before, not that it matters with all the rust and stuck parts.

[46international]

I'm sure everyone knows who Mart is, he has a video of him knocking out pistons on a stuck flathead. He just goes in from the bottom with a punch and breaks off the piston head, then the rest comes out easy, I think mine are more rusty than his. But I have hope.

[corvette8n]

I had a Honda motorcycle that I had to chisel out the piston, the rings were welded with rust to the cylinder wall.

[Mart]

Hello. Glad you have been given some good advice here. Thanks for the mention.

Be careful knocking the pistons out. I got overconfident and managed to crack one bore. Make sure the head really has gone.

As it is an 8BA and has conventional valves, there shouldn't be any reason the valves can't be extracted without resorting to the methods normally reserved for 59A splay footed valves.

I would be interested to see the thread that dealt with changing the oil pipe again.

Mart.

[Mart]

Mr google is your friend: Shame some of the contributors have passed.
https://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=153739
https://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=132389

[46international]

Originally Posted by Mart

Mr google is your friend: Shame some of the contributors have passed.
https://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=153739
https://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=132389

Thanks the links! Well, these threads answer my questions about the tube. I have a lathe so I should be able to make a new one if I get that far with this block.

[46international]

Just a little update, I got the crank and all the pistons out. Working on the lifters now I think only two will move. I have cut the cam out so there is only the journals left.

I was thinking of pressure testing the block if I can get the rest of the parts out with obvious damage. My plan is to install a cylinder head with gasket, make a plate for the water pump and a plate for the water outlet on the head. Then in one of the plates, weld in a fitting so I can pressurize with water or air. If I use water it would be easy to see any leaks, my house runs 60psi. If I use air I can regulate down to any pressure and use soapy water to look for leaks. Anyone have any thoughts on what would be the better way?

[Tim Ayers]

Glad it coming along. Keep soaking those lifters in the meantime. I think it sound good. Only snag is won't be able to see the top end/valve area with the head on. You'll need to check from the bottom.

Pricey, but this kit works well.

https://www.ebay.com/p/668559869

[tubman]

Here's what I made, similar to what you are proposing. The black vinyl cap goes over the water pump inlet for in car testing. BTW, I found out the hard way that 1/4" aluminum flexes enough to make sealing against the block problematic. I would suggest thicker aluminum or steel.

[marko39]

I pressure tested mine as you are planning and found air leakage around heads and pumps. Used 20psi and soapy water. After using copper coat on head gaskets and making a thick rubber gasket for pumps the leakage slowed but didn’t stop completely. I couldn’t find any other leaks and got block to hold pressure for 2 hours best which I consider success. Copper coat will ruin head gaskets if you want to reuse them.

[flatford8]

I have the Speedway kit that Tim provided the link to. It works well and if you plan on tearing into more engines it could be handy to have. It’s cheaper than putting money into a bad block......Mark