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09-15-2017, 05:30 PM | #1 |
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I believe I found the leak
So I took the car for a short drive then brought in it and put it on the lift to check where the oil leak was coming from. The side cover was weeping a bit but the majority was dripping off the cotter pin in the clutch cover. I pulled the pan to check the condition of the drain tube and found.......no drain tube. The boss that the drain tube screws into has a piece broke out of it and there is evidence that the tube was spot welded in place at one time (poorly obviously). No tube rattling around in the pan. Anything else I should be checking out while the pan is off?. I could plastigage the rod caps I suppose. [IMG][/IMG]
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09-15-2017, 05:36 PM | #2 |
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Re: I believe I found the leak
Might ck the clearance on the mains??
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09-15-2017, 07:19 PM | #3 |
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Re: I believe I found the leak
Especially the middle one.
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09-15-2017, 07:31 PM | #4 |
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Re: I believe I found the leak
Screw the drain tube back with some JB weld, tighten the valve cover and plastiguage the mains and rods. You should be good to go.
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09-15-2017, 10:40 PM | #5 |
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Re: I believe I found the leak
We just went thru the very same thing on a customers car this last couple of weeks.
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09-15-2017, 11:05 PM | #6 |
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Re: I believe I found the leak
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09-16-2017, 08:19 AM | #7 |
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Re: I believe I found the leak
When adjusting the valves, do yourself a favor and remove the spark plugs so that you can more easily and precisely hand crank the engine. If your engine has the original solid tappets, you won't be able to adjust the valves without removing them and grinding the ends. That means pulling the cylinder head. Hopefully your predecessor installed adjustable lifters, although given that he didn't even know enough to put in a rear main drain tube, I would suspect he didn't put in adjustable lifters. Either too cheap or too ignorant to have done so.
By the way, remove the dipper tray from the oil pan so that you can clean out the sludge on the bottom of the pan. It may be that the oil drain tube is trapped in goo down there. That's where I have found poorly-installed drain tubes in the past. Marshall |
09-16-2017, 08:27 AM | #8 |
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Re: I believe I found the leak
Also, do not screw in the new drain tube too far! You do not want to screw it in until all the threads on the tube are not visible. That will block the oil passageway inside the cap. Screw in the new tube so that you can still see a couple threads. It would be a good idea to order a couple welch plugs when order the new drain tube. Pry out the old one before you screw in the new tube. This way, you can ensure by looking into the hole that the tube is not too deep. Then simply tap in the new welch (freeze) plug. Order a 3/8" tube, even if your cap has the older 5/16" tube. You'll need to re-tap the threads in the cap for this larger tube. JB Weld or braze the new tube in place. By installing the 3/8" drain tube, you will help the rear main drain oil back into the pan better. Ford changed from 5/16" to 3/8" in 1930 because of rear main leakage complaints.
Marshall |
09-16-2017, 09:13 AM | #9 |
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Re: I believe I found the leak
I have never seen anyone try brazing the tube in place, always saw electric welder used.
BUT I hope the brazing process does not melt the Babbitt in the rear main cap... I wonder if maybe a wire welder would be better as it does not heat up the area of the main cap so much? Last edited by Benson; 09-16-2017 at 10:47 AM. |
09-16-2017, 09:39 AM | #10 | |
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Re: I believe I found the leak
Quote:
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09-16-2017, 09:42 AM | #11 | |
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Re: I believe I found the leak
Quote:
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09-16-2017, 09:43 AM | #12 | |
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Re: I believe I found the leak
Quote:
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09-16-2017, 09:59 AM | #13 |
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Re: I believe I found the leak
I would not trust just JB weld to hold it in place. A quick zap with a wire feed mig or what not would be better. Think about the vibration and oil sloshing back and forth, it's not just hanging there without some forces working on it. Ok not a lot but...
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09-16-2017, 04:13 PM | #14 |
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Re: I believe I found the leak
Ditto.... I used a Mig welder to properly fix my loose oil return tube. It screwed in too far and it created draining interference. The Mig welder welded it exactly where it needed to be, and made it real tight too. My biggest problem was getting just the perfect angle of the tube for its proper clearance with my crank shaft's added counterweights.
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09-16-2017, 04:30 PM | #15 |
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Re: I believe I found the leak
What about a good cleaning and some sort of thread loctite?
John |
09-16-2017, 04:43 PM | #16 |
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Re: I believe I found the leak
An old time local Model A motor re-builder near me used to braze the tube into the rear main cap in the many motors he overhauled. I asked him how he did it without melting the babbitt and he stated that he submerged most of the cap upside down in a pan of water and had great success that way. A very simple solution that worked for him. The same solution could be used when spot welding the tube in place.
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09-16-2017, 05:10 PM | #17 |
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Re: I believe I found the leak
You are dealing with two dissimilar metals. The cap is cast and the tube is mild steel. The only proper weld, would be to TIG weld it with Ni rod. This will generate a lot of heat so if you went this way, I would do as John suggests and submerge the cap. It can also be brazed or silver soldered the same way. Tricky, but it can be done. Don't waist your time with a JB Weld type of repair. If you are going to do it, do it right.
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09-16-2017, 07:20 PM | #18 |
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Re: I believe I found the leak
Well THAT's unfortunate. I removed the rear main and a piece of babbit broke off. I seen the crack before taking the cap off and was extra gentle but it was already broken. I'm missing a piece about half the size of a fingernail. Tried to post pic but can't seem to get them from my phone to the computer (not very tech savy). Bummer
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