04-29-2016, 04:11 PM | #1 |
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Brake light
Brake light not working. Tail light works. So what do I check first after the bulb, which I already replaced.
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04-29-2016, 04:19 PM | #2 |
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Re: Brake light
Check to make sure you have power going into the brake light switch. If you have power there, apply the brakes and see if you then have power on the "out" side of the switch. If everything is OK so far, keep going downstream till you find no power. Also could be the ground inside the tail light fixture.
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04-29-2016, 05:10 PM | #3 |
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Re: Brake light
Check the brake light switch for sure, they can go bad. Mine quit last year on my 28, and the hook had just come off the brake pedal. Easy fix :-)
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04-29-2016, 05:15 PM | #4 |
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Re: Brake light
If your light is connected to the wiring harness with apigtail, check the juncture f the two wires. Mine came undone just last week.
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04-29-2016, 05:31 PM | #5 |
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Re: Brake light
Just run a jumper wire with alligator clips from one terminal to the other on the stoplight switch. That will turn on the stop light if the bulb is good. If that doesn't do it, replace the bulb and check the wiring from the stoplight switch to the taillight.
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04-29-2016, 06:14 PM | #6 |
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Re: Brake light
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04-29-2016, 08:03 PM | #7 |
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Re: Brake light
Thanks. Where exactly is the brake light switch?
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04-29-2016, 08:04 PM | #8 | |
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Re: Brake light
Quote:
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04-29-2016, 09:24 PM | #9 |
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Re: Brake light
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04-30-2016, 02:19 AM | #10 |
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Re: Brake light
A 2.00 test light is your friend and all you need to figure this out easily
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04-30-2016, 09:05 AM | #11 |
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Re: Brake light
Thanks for the info. No power at the stop light switch. Looks like power comes from the headlight switch to the stop light switch. Jiggling the wire at the headlight switch caused a flicker of the brake light. Guess I gotta go into that headlight switch and rewire. Already had trouble with it before. The bail kept coming off. Probably should replace the entire thing.
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04-30-2016, 11:52 AM | #12 |
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Re: Brake light
A worthwhile modification is to remove the lead on the stoplight switch that comes from the light bail and replace it with a wire going directly to the fuse. If you do not have a fuse attach it to one of the terminals on the fire wall. There is no reason for the brake light power to be routed through the light bail.
With this modification if you are ever out on the road and a short circuit occurs in the light bail you can remove power going to it by disconnecting the wire that runs from the cut-out (or alternator) to the bail without affecting the brake light circuit. Your headlights and tail lights will be inoperative, but You will be able to drive the car during daylight and still have brake lights. Tom Endy |
04-30-2016, 01:23 PM | #13 |
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Re: Brake light
Since my headlights and tail lights work, I am guessing that there is just a bad connection inside the light bail. There are two wires together entering the bail, separate from the larger ones which go forward to the headlights. One of the two must be the brake light and the other the tail light????
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04-30-2016, 01:31 PM | #14 |
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Re: Brake light
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04-30-2016, 01:39 PM | #15 |
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Re: Brake light
In Mitch's diagram above, what Tom is suggesting is to take the green wire that goes from the stoplight switch to the light switch. Re-route it or replace it and connect it to the yellow wire on the starting switch or the junction box.
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04-30-2016, 02:26 PM | #16 | |
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Re: Brake light
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Tom Endy |
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04-30-2016, 04:56 PM | #17 |
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Re: Brake light
I was thinking the same as Tom, but the only drawback would be if the brake light stuck on it wouldn't show in the ammeter. I also look at the ammeter once in a while when I touch the brake to make sure it draws power. On my 28, the original FORD script wrinkle brake bulb burned out about 5 years ago.
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04-30-2016, 06:02 PM | #18 | |
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Re: Brake light
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04-30-2016, 06:21 PM | #19 |
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Re: Brake light
Or connect it somewhere on the load side of the ammeter.The yellow/black wire.
Last edited by Manager; 04-30-2016 at 06:37 PM. |
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