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Old 04-23-2018, 10:18 AM   #1
cederholm
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Default removing and separating the rear spring pack

Hi guys,

Any advice on how to remove and separate my rear spring pack without killing myself?

Thanks,
Carl
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Old 04-23-2018, 10:20 AM   #2
1930artdeco
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Default Re: removing and separating the rear spring pack

Using a spring spreader and being VERY, VERY careful. Not trying to be a smart ass but those pack lot of energy.

Mike
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Old 04-23-2018, 10:24 AM   #3
cederholm
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Default Re: removing and separating the rear spring pack

Thanks Mike, that's why I asked. I thought I've seem home-made spring spreaders made from thick all-thread, nuts and black pipe.

Can anyone confirm? Perhaps with a plan.

~ Carl

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Originally Posted by 1930artdeco View Post
Using a spring spreader and being VERY, VERY careful. Not trying to be a smart ass but those pack lot of energy.

Mike
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Old 04-23-2018, 10:28 AM   #4
Tacoma Bob
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Default Re: removing and separating the rear spring pack

The real deal for me is to wrap a large (gauge) length of tow chain around the spring pack. That way if spring spreaders or c-clamps slip the chain will contain the energy. Helps to have a safety person on hand.
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Old 04-23-2018, 11:51 AM   #5
1930artdeco
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Default Re: removing and separating the rear spring pack

I have heard of them as well. When I took mine off I borrowed one from another member. IT does need a 'blade' to fit into the spring where the 'eye' is. It may be beneficial to just buy one? Dad also told me he did what Bob said. No use in having your head come off by accident.

Mike
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Old 04-23-2018, 12:08 PM   #6
Tom Endy
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Default Re: removing and separating the rear spring pack

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Be sure to use a proper spring spreader. The one shown in the photo can be purchased from Snyder's for less than $100. A more deluxe one goes for $135. Both are safe to use. This is very important as an improper spring spreader can inflict injury and damage. As long as the spring is retained in the frame with the two U-bolts it is safe. You take your life in your hands if you remove the rear axle assembly with the spring still attached as all that it holding it together is a 3/8" center bolt that could be 80 years old and rusted.


Put the rear of the frame on jack stands. Install the spring spreader and spread the spring. make sure it is properly secured at each end around the shackle boss.


Remove the shackles and lower the rear axle assembly.


Collapse the spring spreader and remove it. The spring is then no longer lethal.


Remove the nuts from the two U-bolts and lower the spring. Best have help as it is heavy.


Put the spring on a work bench and put a C-clamp next to the center bolt. This is done not for safety reasons, but to make it easy to remove the nut from the center bolt. There is very little tension left in the leaf stack.


The center bolt will likely be peened at the end so you may have to grind it flush with the nut in order to remove it.


Take a center punch and make a line of marks on the edge of the leafs somewhere so you will know how it came apart.


The individual leaves should be degreased, sand blasted or bead blasted.


Take a disk grinder and round the sharp edges at each leaf end. Grind the witness marks out of the area on the top of each leaf where the sharp edge has dug in.


Spray the contact portion of each leaf with a heavy coat of slip plate graphite lubricant. Most of the suppliers carry it. It goes on black and dries quickly.


Reassemble the spring using a new center bolt. They come twice as long as need be to aid in the reassembly. Make sure it has a square head on it as it has to fit in the square hole in the frame.


A C-clamp placed next to the head of the center bolt will make it easy to run the nut on. Tighten the nut, cut the excess of the bolt off and peen the end. Make sure the square head is oriented correctly.


The line of punches you put on the edge of the leafs will tell you how it came apart. You can put it back the way it was or reverse every other leaf, which is what I do.


As the leafs came together some amount of slip plate will squeeze out. Wipe it off with rag with lacquer thinner and paint the spring black.


This is a good time to replace the shackle bushings in both the spring ends and the two axle housings.


Reinstall the spring in the car using the two U-bolts. Make sure the square head of the center bolt is properly inserted in the square hole of the frame. I use chalk marks to line things up. The spring is still heavy, so you should have help, or use a floor jack.


Once the spring is secured in the frame install the spring spreader and spread the spring and install the shackle bolts. Once the shackle bolts are secure remove the spring spreader.


Tom Endy
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Old 04-23-2018, 01:15 PM   #7
cederholm
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Default Re: removing and separating the rear spring pack

Very helpful Tom, thank you.

~ Carl
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Old 08-20-2018, 10:10 AM   #8
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Default Re: removing and separating the rear spring pack

delete

Last edited by duke36; 08-21-2018 at 10:28 AM.
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Old 08-20-2018, 10:37 AM   #9
Charlie Stephens
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Default Re: removing and separating the rear spring pack

Contact your local Model A Club and see if they have a spring spreader to loan to members or rent to others.

Charlie Stephens
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Old 08-21-2018, 07:59 AM   #10
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Default Re: removing and separating the rear spring pack

Made my own spring spreader out of heavy walled pipe and 3/4 threaded rod,if you have a welder it is not difficult.I would c clamp and chain the spring before you remove center bolt,safety first.
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Old 08-21-2018, 06:32 PM   #11
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Default Re: removing and separating the rear spring pack

I had pulled the A Ford rear axle with the spring still attached. After I had them out, I decided to replace the spring shackles. With my spring spreader spreading the spring, I proceeded to remove the shackles with a punch and a hammer. When the first shackle cleared the spring eye, the shock from the hammer dislodged the spring spreader and as my spring spreader went flying by my shins, it about took my leg off. Bruised bones, ripped flesh and deep pain immediately followed. And I thought that I was being careful.
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Old 08-22-2018, 12:38 AM   #12
Chris Haynes
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Default Re: removing and separating the rear spring pack

There is a genuine K R Wilson spring spreader on eBay now. I bough one myself and I love it.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/KR-WILSON-M...oAAOSwQf9befrC
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Old 08-22-2018, 01:05 AM   #13
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Default Re: removing and separating the rear spring pack

Tom Endy has a good narrative. But. Even when the spring is off the axel housing ans just sitting/laying on the work bench it can be still lethal. When relieving the tension on the 8 to ten leaves with just a c clamp or trying to pull the 8 to 10 leaves together with just the long center bolt can be dangerous. The clamp can break or the threads on the bolt strip. I have seen it happen. pictured below is my home made tension relief contraption. Slow but works when either relieving or pulling back together.
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Old 08-22-2018, 02:42 AM   #14
john charlton
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Default Re: removing and separating the rear spring pack

I have found when taking a rear spring apart the pack still holds a lot of energy. When moving a rear spring I used to carry it by holding it in the centre bolt position . I got to thinking if that nearly 90 year old rusty nut lets go it could take my arm off .I now drag them by one end so if anything does let go I am more or less out of the line of fire. I regard a rear spring with great respect,wrapping with chain and hefty "C" clamps when fitting to an axle .

John in lovely sunny morning Suffolk County England out this morning in my 76000 miles from new 28 phaeton to visit with a local club member with starting problems.
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Old 08-22-2018, 07:13 PM   #15
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Default Re: removing and separating the rear spring pack

The REARS: They sure do!!! ^ The repo are not as bad but original watch out. (Talking about taking the spring apart)
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