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06-08-2021, 01:39 PM | #1 |
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Radiator shell mounting flange distance
Folks - on my '30 Town Sedan the radiator shell is about an inch wider at the lower mounting points than the distance between the flanges. When tightened up the movement put a stress on the lower part of the shell to the point it folded and split at the center. Now that I have the split welded up and reinforced, it's forcing a buckle where the side curves around. Obviously this isn't right, but I don't know if the problem is the radiator mounts or the shell.
Anyone with a 30/31 have a radiator with shell off that can measure the distance between the lower shell mounting flanges? My radiator is 20-1/2" outside to outside. I'm hoping the issue is the radiator, I can more easily bend the mounting flanges (or make a spacer) than I can the shell. Thanks in advance. JayJay
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JayJay San Francisco Bay Area ------------------------ 1930 Murray Town Sedan 1931 Briggs S/W Town Sedan Last edited by JayJay; 06-08-2021 at 02:58 PM. |
06-08-2021, 04:44 PM | #2 |
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Re: Radiator shell mounting flange distance
I check three shells and two are 20 1/2" and one is 20" the radiator was 20 1/4"
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06-08-2021, 07:47 PM | #3 |
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Re: Radiator shell mounting flange distance
I think he needs the to know the distance of the bottom tab on the radiator itself, not the shell.
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06-09-2021, 07:35 AM | #4 |
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Re: Radiator shell mounting flange distance
My bottom tabs on my 1930 original radiator are 20 3/4 inches outside at the holes. They are canted outward towards the rear of the car.
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06-09-2021, 10:36 AM | #5 |
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Re: Radiator shell mounting flange distance
Thanks, all. To redmodelt's point, in a perfect world the inside dimension of the shell would be the same as the outside dimension across the flanges. In my case it looks like the radiator is OK, and the shell is oversize (I measured it, it's 21-1/2"). I suppose that somewhere in the last 90 years it could have been replaced with a non-OEM, although the Ford logo at the top sure looks its alleged age. I'm going to have to think on how to resolve this, the turned in flange at the bottom of the sides pretty much stabilizes the sides against being teased in 1/2" on each side. Longer mounting screws and spacers might work, but that might horse up the relationship to the hood clamps. Or cutting and rewelding the bottom flange (which doesn't show). Oh, the joys of restoration!
Thanks again. JayJay
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JayJay San Francisco Bay Area ------------------------ 1930 Murray Town Sedan 1931 Briggs S/W Town Sedan |
06-09-2021, 04:42 PM | #6 |
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Re: Radiator shell mounting flange distance
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06-09-2021, 06:45 PM | #7 | |
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Re: Radiator shell mounting flange distance
Quote:
Thanks to all for your help. Good to have help thinking things through. JayJay
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JayJay San Francisco Bay Area ------------------------ 1930 Murray Town Sedan 1931 Briggs S/W Town Sedan Last edited by JayJay; 06-09-2021 at 07:09 PM. |
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06-09-2021, 07:07 PM | #8 |
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Re: Radiator shell mounting flange distance
First pic - tear at lower center due to stress (original issue)
Second pic - welded up, I've done a lot of filing and filling to complete this Third pic - dimension across lower mounting points (should be closer to 20-1/2") Fourth pic - distortion at bottom of each side since I fixed the center, this is occurring as I push the sides in to take up the 1" of slop. JayJay
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JayJay San Francisco Bay Area ------------------------ 1930 Murray Town Sedan 1931 Briggs S/W Town Sedan |
06-09-2021, 08:03 PM | #9 |
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Re: Radiator shell mounting flange distance
That's a strange place for a stress crack. They usually crack at the bottom directly underneath the crank cover. If it's an original shell, it's possible it was restored at some time and there might have been some hammer & dolly work to remove dents from the side panels causing a stretch in the curvature on the sides. Also possible, if the shell was ever polished out, it was not reinforced while working it with the polishing wheel. The heat from polishing against a motorized wheel can do some pretty interesting things to thin sheet metal if there's nothing keeping it rigid. When I polish grille shells I make a buck behind the front face of the shell out of 1/8 to 3/16" plywood paneling. I reinforce that with two strips of flat stock attached horizontally behind the paneling and bent to shape on either side to be fastened to the shell at the mounting tabs that locate the shell on the radiator. This keeps the shell stiff enough to avoid heat distortion and allow for some control while polishing.
You could try a similar setup to try and work the shell back into the shape by hand without "kinking". Take a length of 3/16" thick flat stock across the bottom of the shell. It will be flat across the inside of the shell opening (In other words, mounted inside the shell) and bent up on the sides with a hole on each end to fasten the flat stock to the shell at the lower radiator mounting tabs. The flat stock is basically now a flat "U" shape if viewed on end. The outside measurement, from side to side, of the mounting holes in the flat stock will be the desired 20 1/2" (or so) that you want as your final measurement for fit on the radiator. This may allow enough rigidity to "work" the front of the shell by hand (or gentle hammering with a rubber mallet or block of wood and hammer) such that the sides conform uniformly and the front of the shell lays flat. Hopefully, in the end, the measurement across the mounting tabs will end up close enough to fit without bending anywhere. Perhaps a lot of work but you're otherwise at a loss right now. Good luck. Bob Bader |
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