40 ford master cylinder

[Gezer]

I am trying to rebuild the Brake master cylinder on a 40 Ford Deluxe model Passenger car.
Anyone know where I can find an exploder view of the internals. I Have the kit but would like the diagram so I get everything where is belongs.

Also, any tips on things to watch out for would be appreciated too.
Thanks

[russcc]

Someone will post a photo blowup, but if you don't have a hone for cleaning up the bore I got mine from McMaster Carr. It was Lisle, made in USA, and you can get replacement stones for them. Advance Auto may also have them as they stock some Lisle products. It is a simple job, and beats the heck out buying an imported problem.

[Terry,OH]

Most of the rebuilding kits do not appear exactly like the original diagrams. The rubber appearing washer with the hex shaped hole goes in first. Then the check valve. Original check valves had the washer as an assembly. The one diagram below shows the rubber washer and then the check valve.

[Gezer]

Awesome! Thank You

[Cartravel]

I must be dense, because I'm still having trouble reconciling the rebuild parts in the kit with the diagrams. I don't see a "rubber appearing washer with hex shaped hole". The documentation mentions #2178 valve assembly, but the kit just has a hex shaped metal sieve at the end of the spring, and it doesn't seem to fit in the bore without some modification. Does it go in the way I have it laid out in the photo, or does the black vinyl washer go in first? The fiber washer must be the piston stop, #2188.


Sorry, to plow old ground, but maybe this will be helpful to others in addition to me.
Larry Young

[Kube]

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Ya know, you can buy a BRAND NEW master cylinder at NAPA for $50 - no core charge. They are wonderful parts - I've used many.

[Cartravel]

Yes, I know that logic. I’m sure the cheap imports work, but this one is US made and in good rebuildable condition. I guess if I bought a new one, I could pull it apart to answer this simple question.

[Terry,OH]

As mentioned above the kits are not all the same. With your rebuilding kit the round rubber washer is first and then the check valve. When assembled, the metal piston with seals will stop at the metal washer held in by the clip.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Cartravel

Yes, I know that logic. I’m sure the cheap imports work, but this one is US made and in good rebuildable condition. I guess if I bought a new one, I could pull it apart to answer this simple question.

The ones available through NAPA are very good quality.
I suppose it comes down to what you feel your time is worth.

[Cartravel]

Originally Posted by Kube

The ones available through NAPA are very good quality.
I suppose it comes down to what you feel your time is worth.

... and what you believe will give you the best part.

[Cartravel]

Thanks, Terry. I was beginning to think the vinyl washer went in first. The metal-looking washer is actually fiber in this kit.

[Krylon32]

Listen to KUBE!

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Cartravel

... and what you believe will give you the best part.

I agree. Still, most folks that know me, know I do things one way - correctly. These cylinders from NAPA have been perfect each and every time.
In fact, they are even the concourse correct casting. Something that is fairly rare on most cars I've judged.

[std1940]

Kube,
Do the Napa ones come with a metal filler cap or a plastic one.
If it comes with plastic can will an original metal one screw in?
Thanks Tom.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by std1940

Kube,
Do the Napa ones come with a metal filler cap or a plastic one.
If it comes with plastic can will an original metal one screw in?
Thanks Tom.

Tom, Even the cap is concourse correct. I have been amazed!

[5851a]

If NAPA brand part is concourse correct and functions as original I would just save the original on a shelf. It wouldn't be any different than going to the Ford dealer back in the day. Ford subbed out a lot of parts throughout history, Wagner, Lockheed, Bendix Dana, Spicer, Borg Warner, Dodge Bros on and on. I understand recycle/reuse but some times I just stash original and let the relatives figure out what it is when I'm gone. Good to know Napa still has some good parts.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by 5851a

If NAPA brand part is concourse correct and functions as original I would just save the original on a shelf. It wouldn't be any different than going to the Ford dealer back in the day. Ford subbed out a lot of parts throughout history, Wagner, Lockheed, Bendix Dana, Spicer, Borg Warner, Dodge Bros on and on. I understand recycle/reuse but some times I just stash original and let the relatives figure out what it is when I'm gone. Good to know Napa still has some good parts.

About three weeks ago, I tossed eight nice master cylinder cores. I tried to sell them on eBay for a $5 minimum bid. No takes even at that price. A couple were already honed.
Trash can...

[TJ]

Kube, if you threw them in the recycle bin they will come back as new rotors for a Kia

[Dave/Green Bay]

Kube: What part NAPA number do you use for the master. Do you use their wheel cylinders? Thanks Dave

[russcc]

To address the original thread. If you are going to rebuild the original 40 cylinder, the rebuild kit is Wagner FC 5375. The Lisle hone and stone are available at NAPA. Honing should be done using brake fluid as a lubricant. Clean it well after honing, Coat the bore right away with "Brake Cylinder assembly lube" McKay is the only one on the market, available through ebay, about $11., free shippng. Rebuild or buy new, there is logic to each. Some would like to learn the process, and get the satisfaction of doing it."One of the greatest discoveries a man makes, one of his surprises, is to find he can do what he was afraid to do" Henry Ford