Oil leak before start up

[branch133]

Putting re-built engine back into my 29 Tudor. Not run yet, but after pouring the last quart of oil through the distributor hole, engine began leaking right rear camshaft area where the bell housing bolts on to the block. I put bell housing gasket on dry (no sealer) per instructions. I'm guessing this is where the leak is. Any other opinions?

[branch133]

As a follow up, is it time to pull the engine back out and replace the gasket? Any other place it could leak without even running the engine? I have refilled the valve chamber several times through the distributor drive hole and it leaks every time. Am I to assume oil is leaking past camshaft end at the bell housing gasket? Kinda wanted a second opinion before I take out the engine. Any place else to be suspicious of? Thanks

[Dave in MN]

If you put the gasket on dry, you are likely to get a leak at the rear of the camshaft. Did you seal the rear main bolts? They can weep a little oil if they were installed dry. Check the 4 bolt holes that hold the flywheel housing to the block to the front of the flywheel. Some of these holes are "wet" holes and will leak oil from the crankcase if you don't seal the bolt.
Rear main: Oil seal should be set in sealer in block. Rear cap should be sealed to the block along with the shims. Take care with the rear cap...not too much sealant. (I would assume your engine rebuilder set the oil seal, rear main cap and bolts and ...would have sealed components.)
Good Day!
Dave Gerold

[branch133]

Thanks, Dave. Everything you said about the bolts and gasket makes total sense and I did none of them. I could just kick myself. I know what I need to do: take out the motor and fix it! Thanks for the confirmation.

[James Rogers]

If I were going to pull the engine, I would drain the oil from the pan and set theengine up in the same level as in the car. Pour the oil in the same way you did when it is in the car and watch where it is coming from. You got nothing to loose but a little time and you might save some time and find the leak somewhere else like at the valve cover if it is cracked or something.

[Brian T]

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If its leaking that badly just adding the oil without running the engine I would check for something broken, as James mentioned I would look at the valve cover and gasket first, I couldn't see a dry gasket passing oil even running..

[Kohnke Rebabbitting]

Adding to what Dave said, even if everything would be right, and by pouring all the oil down the Distributor hole, the chance is great the excess will run, or drip out the rear main, until that excess is gone. As the crank is at rest, and all the shaft clearance, as it is cold, is at the top under the tube, and it will run in faster then the return will take it, and that would be normal. Don't for get to check the oil return in the cap by looking in the soft plug, pull the plug, just blowing air through the tube will tell you nothing, and make sure the tube is 3/8's, and a clear hole above the oil tube, of a full 3/8's.

Put on some pictures of the rear main, with what you find.

Herm.

[branch133]

Oil is running down (or out) the right rear of the block where the bell housing joins up. Therefore, the basis of my original thought of the gasket issue. I like the idea of re-flooding the valve compartment with oil when the engine is on the stand and the clutch and flywheel off to observe where the oil comes from. It may be a couple of weeks (because of travel) before I get back to this, but will give you a follow-up of what I find. Thanks to all for your suggestions. Bob

[Benson]

Originally Posted by branch133

Oil is running down (or out) the right rear of the block where the bell housing joins up. Therefore, the basis of my original thought of the gasket issue. I like the idea of re-flooding the valve compartment with oil when the engine is on the stand and the clutch and flywheel off to observe where the oil comes from. It may be a couple of weeks (because of travel) before I get back to this, but will give you a follow-up of what I find. Thanks to all for your suggestions. Bob

When testing consider that the engine installed in car sits at an angle of 3 degrees with the front end higher.

You might be able to install an intake/ext manifold and use a bubble level on the carb flange then shim front wheels of engine stand until the carb flange is level.

Looks like James and others beat me to it ...