Need Help in Identifying Location of Short

[shew01]

I wrangled the new (rebuilt) ignition switch back out of the car and wrangled the old switch back into the car. The problem went away. That’s not the solution I hoped for, but it is what it is. The guy that rebuilt the switch is happy to take another look at it. He has been fantastic to work with.

Thanks, everyone, for now. :-)


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[shew01]

Originally Posted by The Master Cylinder

What a waste of time. I told ya it was the switch back in post #16. I'm done.

This has been a learning experience for me. It looks like we got on your nerves. What is obvious to a seasoned Model A person is not so obvious for me because I’m still learning. This is the very first time I’ve had the ignition apart on a Model A.

The annoyance was not intentional. Thanks for your help.


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[rotorwrench]

Just because they are simple doesn't mean they can't be a PITA sometimes. There were several internal configurations to the Electrolock ignition switch & cable assemblies from late 27 thru 31. One is a bit better than the other as far as opening the breaker circuit. If the car would shut down with the points open every time then it wouldn't be as much of an issue but you can plainly see that it's hit or miss. The rebuilder will likely find out where the tiny little connection is being made. He has a lot of experience with them.

Aside from thread bare wiring laying against a bare metal ground path somewhere, another problem can be brake light switches that don't open all the way. Many of the reproductions can be like that Electrolock switch & cable causing just enough of a dim brake light to drain a battery.

An alternator that can put out a good bit more amperage than the old 3-brush gen. Loose terminals on hot circuits can create resistance and resistance will make heat. I've seen those plastic terminal boxes melt due to loose terminals. It's good you caught that one. Alternator diode bridges will generally stay in good condition for a long time. Shorts and voltage spikes can kill them but normal operation is usually no problem. They shouldn't cause any current draw unless something is wrong with one of the diodes in the bridge. They won't motor like a generator with a stuck cut out but more like a basic electro magnet on all the time. They have to have that bridge to turn AC current into DC current for charging but they would prevent back flow of current from the battery during rest as well.

[CWPASADENA]

Originally Posted by cpf240

You said this was a rebuilt original ignition switch, yes? If so, not to be rude, but are you aware that it needs to be pushed in to be off?

Exactly what I was thinking

Chris W

[The Master Cylinder]

Sorry, Jim. BO is a term we use at work when something is not working correctly/needs repair or is in "Bad Order".

[katy]

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Originally Posted by The Master Cylinder

Sorry, Jim. BO is a term we use at work when something is not working correctly/needs repair or is in "Bad Order".

First time I've heard that one. I have heard of using US, meaning UnServicable.