Question about por-15 putty or filler

[Sid]

Has any one had any experience with the por-15 fillers? There is a patch and also a putty. As far as sanding,shaping,durability or top coating? I have a very very small spot on a roof next to the drip rail that needs attn. If I try to cut out and do a proper repair it will open up a big can of worms. Not to mention removing the headliner on a pretty much finished car. I would like to seal off the pin holes with the por-15 then use metal to metal to finish of any imperfection. This car will probably not see much rain in my lifetime. Will top with K-36 and base coat clear coat. Has any body worked with this product for this use? Which one works the best?

[Bob T]

Yes and it will work fine. I also tried to repair steering wheel cracks but had poor results.

[mikhett]

METAL to METAL and any "METAL' based fillers are JUNK!I bought a 56 ford that was taken down to bare metal and the P.O. used it.Wereever he used it it cracked .Fine hairline cracks all over.Si I went down to bare metal and ground it all out(ir wasn't thick thank god!) and It only had 3 coats of primer so the do over wasn't to bad.

[Daves55Sedan]

I hope more folks will respond as I also have been curious about POR15. Particularly if it has been effective in SEALING metal against the elements over time (like an acid etch)? If anybody has used it how long ago did you apply it and how has it held up?

[Alaska Jim]

I have had good luck with metal to metal body filler.

[okiedokie]

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I used a filler called All Metal several years ago to seal some small Pitts/holes in a 40 windshield opening "lip" discovered after paint. Had to replace the wIndshield a couple of years ago and the filler was still doing it's job.

[frank long island]

all metal is a very good product for what its intended to be used for you cant expect to fill a rot hole and have it work as water is going to attack it from the back I would clean the rusted area and use a sealer/rust converter then apply your filler the key is to use a product that wont attract moisture they also make a short strand fiberglass spreads like filler I use this over my welded in patches before body filler

[Alaska Jim]

I guess I need to clarify that the product I used was the all metal. Frank is correct about it's use.

[Sid]

It's not a "rot hole" It is some pin holes. The situation is the proper repair would involve removing the rear window,head liner and cut out a 1" x 2" piece on roof near the drip rail on a fairly nice car. I think the problem is because some moron failed to repair the old seam sealer in the drip rail. This is a car that will probably never see rain and maybe a water hose twice a year. The POR products are supposed to be pretty good but I am Leary about how other fillers and primers will adhere to them like K36 etc. I wouldn't think much moisture would ever be on the inside of the roof to cause a problem. That is why I was thinking that one of the POR fillers would act as a moisture barrier then finish of with metal to metal or evercoat extreme body filler. In another 5 to 10 years it will probably be someone else problem anyway. Any info. will be appreciated....Thanks

[Daves55Sedan]

Sid, you mentioned "pin holes"? If you mean holes that completely penetrate thru to the backside, I kinda doubt that any type of filler will permanently stop the rusting through. The metal at that spot may be rusting thru from the backside outward and unless you can seal it on the backside, most putty's will absorb moisture and perpetuate rusting.
Regardless of weather the car ever gets rained on or seldom washed, there will still be condensation collecting there from sweating due to temperature changes from evening to nightfall and dusk to dawn.
Based upon my observation of patch jobs like this with putty's, I give it maximum two years before you start to see it bubbling up.

[Daves55Sedan]

Originally Posted by Bob T

I also tried to repair steering wheel cracks but had poor results.

Body fillers are not the proper application for filling steering wheel cracks and they will not work. Bondo and other such products expand and contract at different rates due to temperature changes in comparison to the plastic material molded around steering wheels.
I forget the brand of the stuff that is widely used by most folks in the know about this, but it is available at most chain auto parts stores, a package contains two tubes of goop that must be mixed together, is highly toxic, carcinogenic, and you must wear gloves while mixing and applying it. I would also recommend using a facemask so you don't breath the toxic fumes while mixing.
Perhaps some of our friends here remember the name of that stuff.

[Daves55Sedan]

Just a thought, since it is such a small area (AND if you can get all the rust removed from the inflicted area somehow), why not try mixin up a little batch of JB-Weld and trowel in over the bad spot. It's like a epoxy putty. After it dries, you can smooth it out with sandpaper. It would be way less expensive than POR15 and might even hold up longer.

[willowbilly3]

Originally Posted by Daves55Sedan

Sid, you mentioned "pin holes"? If you mean holes that completely penetrate thru to the backside, I kinda doubt that any type of filler will permanently stop the rusting through. The metal at that spot may be rusting thru from the backside outward and unless you can seal it on the backside, most putty's will absorb moisture and perpetuate rusting.
Regardless of weather the car ever gets rained on or seldom washed, there will still be condensation collecting there from sweating due to temperature changes from evening to nightfall and dusk to dawn.
Based upon my observation of patch jobs like this with putty's, I give it maximum two years before you start to see it bubbling up.

Exactly what I was thinking. Anytime you see a pin hole through the paint, the metal is probably gone in that area. Nothing you do from the outside will keep it from rusting more

[Lanny]

I would use the JB Weld Marine Epoxy part # 8272
It is moisture resistant, and you can get it at Walmart for about $5 or so.

Click on pic to Enlarge.

[Sid]

Thanks Lanny..That may work well as a moisture barrier then finish off with All metal or Metal to Metal. I've done enough of this kind of repair that I know this is not the proper repair. Maybe in a few years when the car needs new upholstery this can be addressed properly.

[frank long island]

just a question is this area in the window channel or on the roof itself and is it covered by window rubber

[Sid]

The roof area. Probably no more than 1/4" above the drop rail. I'm thinking the JB Weld,scratch with some 40 or maybe even 80 then go over it with either metal to metal or some Kitty Hair. I have just the slightest little body line to adjust just above the seam sealer level.

[Lanny]

Sid, you can sand the JB Weld marine epoxy and prime right over it.
If your Walmart don't have it, you can get it on ebay or amazon too.






.

[Bob T]

Daves55Sedan... Por 15 two part epoxy isn't 'bondo' or body filler . It is advertised as a repair for steering wheels but I have had poor results with it. I have used it to repair 'pin holes' and even leaky water pipes with good results . Not a proper repair but it did what it was supposed to do and that's what the O.P. asked. I've used JB Weld with similar results.

[Lanny]

Originally Posted by Bob T

Daves55Sedan... Por 15 two part epoxy isn't 'bondo' or body filler . It is advertised as a repair for steering wheels but I have had poor results with it. I have used it to repair 'pin holes' and even leaky water pipes with good results . Not a proper repair but it did what it was supposed to do and that's what the O.P. asked. I've used JB Weld with similar results.

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Bob, there is a 2 part epoxy called PC-7 that people brag about
for repairing steering wheels. I have never used it but I'm sure
some on the Barn here have, and maybe they will chime in about it.







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