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Old 10-11-2017, 05:35 PM   #1
Curtis in MA
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Default Wiring problem

My brake pedal doesnít fully retract and the brake lights stay on. If I donít notice the ammeter the battery dies. I have resorted to opening the hood and pulling the fuse every time I stop.
So I rewired the system tonight by running the wire from the ammeter to go to the key and then from the key to the terminal box. The two wires that did go to the key I connected together.
This worked great until the switch is turned off. Because the alternator is now in line with the coil/points the engine still runs a little. Since with the low rpmís the alternator is not producing much power it hasnít run long.
I like having all the accessories on the key and if I can solve this I might buy a new switch with an accessory terminal.
If I put a switch in only for the brake lights I might forget to turn it on when I start.
I know I should fix the real problem but I havenít found it yet.
Any ideas?
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Old 10-11-2017, 05:37 PM   #2
1931 flamingo
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Default Re: Wiring problem

The light stays on because the brake pedal doesn't fully retract.
Paul in CT
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Old 10-11-2017, 05:42 PM   #3
Patrick L.
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Default Re: Wiring problem

I happen to agree with fixing the real problem as you're probably driving around with the brake lights on.
The problem is probably just a cross shaft/ brake rod/ anti-rattler spring issue.
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Old 10-11-2017, 06:16 PM   #4
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Default Re: Wiring problem

It would be a lot easier to fix the pedal travel and switch.
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Old 10-11-2017, 06:25 PM   #5
Chris Haynes
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Default Re: Wiring problem

Get the brake pedal return spring kit.
http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/br...-return-spring
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Old 10-11-2017, 06:27 PM   #6
Curtis in MA
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Default Re: Wiring problem

I have a helper spring on the pedal and when driving the pedal returns fully.
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Old 10-11-2017, 07:14 PM   #7
cpf240
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Default Re: Wiring problem

Perhaps add a battery disconnect switch to prevent battery drains.

Of course, the actual problem should be fixed too... :-)
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Old 10-11-2017, 07:18 PM   #8
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Default Re: Wiring problem

Even with the pedal fully retracting, the linkage between the switch and the pedal linkage may be hanging up or the switch may just be defective or needs an adjustment. Still easier to fix the switch or linkage and have them work correctly than the rewiring you are suggesting. Just saying.

Also, if you don't already have a battery cut-off switch that turns off the battery entirely which is the equivalent of pulling the fuse, you should get one. It is recommended.

I know one person who pulls the fuse out every time he shuts off the car just for the sake of making sure everything is off. He does not have a cut-off switch.
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Old 10-11-2017, 08:05 PM   #9
larrys40
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Default Re: Wiring problem

I agree with the guys above but let's cover your pedal issue thoroughly. The return of the pedal is all about the brake system at each wheel functioning properly with good return springs.

I recommend the Snyder springs as they are better at tension than most of the others.
The "wire type" return springs on the rods are better than the flat type. Make sure they are install correctly for return.
Put a little oil and grease at your Clevis pins will help make sure all pivots well for return. Make sure your cross shaft isn't rubbing on the torque tube which if it is would indicate sagging rear engine mounts.

Also sometime a little oil and grease in the end of the stop light switch helps with them. The 28-29 style that uses the link between the pedal and the switch may also need adjusting as the switch is slotted . The 30/31 is not adjustable

Hopefully after some checks and fixes you will have a pedal and switch functioning much better
Larry
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Old 10-11-2017, 08:47 PM   #10
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Default Re: Wiring problem

The OP didn't mention the year of his A. 28 and 29 use a switch bolted to the side of the transmission tower. Both holes are elongated so there is some adjustment. I'm not familiar with the 30/31 switch, except that it mounts differently, but I would think that it should be adjustable as well.
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Old 10-12-2017, 08:38 AM   #11
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Default Re: Wiring problem

Until you get the brake system working properly, you could connect a wire with the wire coming off of the brake light switch and mount a bulb somewhere near the dash where it will indicate if your brake light is on. I had one like that years ago and used to pull the pedal up with my toe, it is probably best to just lubricate the system and replace bushings where needed as lots of slop can develop over the years.
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Old 10-12-2017, 09:13 AM   #12
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Default Re: Wiring problem

John Reagan at FUN projects has a different opinion on the cut off switch and I wish he would chime in here. After hearing his technical analysis of the switch in the system I took mine out. It has to do with OHMS law. If the starter takes 150 amps to turn over the car , then at six volts the restenance can only be .04 ohms. Since the contacts are not gold or silver in the switch, how long will it take to exceed the .04 ohms and reduce power (current) to the starter? Jack
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