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Old 04-27-2017, 10:14 AM   #1
steamgas
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Default v8 babbitt motores

do the early v8 Babbitt motors have shims under the bearing cap like the model a engines have to take up the wear of the Babbitt material
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Old 04-27-2017, 11:07 AM   #2
deuce_roadster
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Default Re: v8 babbitt motores

V8s with Babbitt are the mains only.
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Old 04-27-2017, 01:25 PM   #3
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Default Re: v8 babbitt motores

Quote:
Originally Posted by steamgas View Post
do the early v8 Babbitt motors have shims under the bearing cap like the model a engines have to take up the wear of the Babbitt material
Yes, they do.
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Old 04-27-2017, 03:49 PM   #4
Lawrie
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Default Re: v8 babbitt motores

Are you sure?
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Old 04-27-2017, 03:49 PM   #5
Kurt in NJ
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Default Re: v8 babbitt motores

I say no, there may be in the aftermarket, but so far I haven't seen them in the Ford book, or service information

Pictures of nos caps - semi finished
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Old 04-27-2017, 05:12 PM   #6
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Default Re: v8 babbitt motores

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I'm not sure about factory blocks, but when I had an engine rebabbited, shims were included.
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Old 05-01-2017, 08:44 AM   #7
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Default Re: v8 babbitt motores

thanks guys for the reply.it only stands to reason that shims were used.why scrap a perfectly good motor for only .002 wear on the Babbitt when all you have to do is remove a .001 shim and have a almost new motor.
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Old 05-01-2017, 04:58 PM   #8
Lawrie
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Default Re: v8 babbitt motores

From time to time there are shims on e/bay.
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Old 05-01-2017, 05:39 PM   #9
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Default Re: v8 babbitt motores

I've never seen shims used on any of the original factory built 21 stud babbitted mains engines that I've torn down, but I do have them in the rebuilt '35 babbitted engine that's in my avatar fordor sedan.
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Old 05-02-2017, 07:39 AM   #10
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Default Re: v8 babbitt motores

I have read that the thicker the babbit the the more likely for failure. I'm thinking Ford felt they got it right at this point and used no shims. The smoother running of the V8 vs the Model A or B may also be a factor.
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Old 05-02-2017, 10:41 AM   #11
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Default Re: v8 babbitt motores

Thicker babbitt usually only applies when you get a block re-poured & machined to fit under size crank pins. The shims wouldn't do any good when the crank gets worn too far and has to be ground undersize a good bit. Babbitt can crack or spiderweb under certain conditions and little pieces of babbitt start to flake off. The thicker it gets, the more this happens

The de-shimming of worn main bearing journals only works for a while. Some of those old crank journals are kind of small so they can only be undersized a small amount anyway but your limited on how many journal shims you can start out with effectively too. Egg shaped bearings don't last as long as nice round ones.

All this makes conversion to replaceable shells more appealing all the time if you want to keep using the old original engine blocks for the 1932 to 36 vehicles.

One of my older friends knew a guy with a model A when he was in the army back in the 50s. The guy would drive his old banger back home once a month to see his folks. Before he would make the trip, he would scour the billets for troops that needed new combat boots. He'd trade them out cigarettes for the old boots so he could cut the tongues out to reshim his rattle trap crankshaft journals with the leather. By the time he would get back to base from home the old car already had a few good knocks going on in there. I guess he did this for near a year before the old motor finally gave out and he had to take the train.
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