‘35 Tudor Slantback Coming Soon!?!

[Low-Blow]

Well, I just verbally committed to the purchase of a ‘35 Tudor Slantback. The car is being represented as all original, garage kept, and rust free. I am going to inspect the car this week. I’ve had various projects in the past, but never a running, driving car. And, never a 30’s car. I am super excited and hope that the car is as clean as the pictures show it to be. Any thoughts or suggestions as to things I should pay attention to? Is there a way to easily tell if it is all original and numbers matching? The car is located a great distance from me. I am contemplating renting an enclosed car hauler and making the drive to pick it up myself. I have also received some quotes to have the car shipped door to door via enclosed trailer. If all goes well, I’ll be posting pics of the car later this week.

[FlatheadTed]

We look forward to the photos .

[JM 35 Sedan]

Sounds exciting to me as well. Definitely one of my favorite early Ford V-8 body styles. Please post as many interior and exterior pictures as possible so we can advise you on our opinion of condition and originality.

[TJ]

Spend a lot of time examining the sheetmetal. Floorpans, rocker panels, cowl panels and the area behind the back seat. It's all about the condition of the body and fenders.

[Low-Blow]

Heading out tomorrow!

[Ron Pilger]

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You made the right decision to go retrieve the car yourself. Take time and take photos. Your road trip will be full of positive memories. If you're like the rest of this in this stupid hobby your cheeks will be sore from smiling the entire ride home. Enjoy and cherish the trip and a year and model of car that just about anyone on this forum would be proud to own.

[flatford8]

That’ll be a great trip!!!!....... Good for you!!!......Wish it was me.......Mark

[Low-Blow]

Going to pick the car up tomorrow (after 1500 road miles! The car hauler that I rented has 4 tie down points in the floor; 2 up front and 2 in the rear. What is the best way to safely secure the car for transport? I have several ratchet straps. I also brought some wood that I am gong to screw to the floor for wheel chocks. I’ve never hauled a car this old. I’m just looking for best places on the car to secure the straps. Thanks in advance!!

[Vics Stuff]

I always use tire straps. Eliminates any question as to how safe the vehicle is going to be.
Vic

[deuce_roadster]

Place the car in the trailer so you have the proper tongue weight. (Maybe you have lots of experience towing and don't need any advice ) When everything is right it is relatively stress free towing. Good luck and I hope the weather isn't a problem for you.

[A bones]

Stop frequently to check straps tor tight.

[Ron Pilger]

make an x with your straps at the front and at the back. i.e. driver's side strap from the front of the trailer goes to the passenger side of the 35. the strap from the passenger side of the trailer will go to the driver's side of the car. straps should go directly into the frame of the car. Straps tend not to loosen. Chains, on the other hand - will loosen frequently! Key to trailering safely is load balance. And, great trailer brakes!

[Seth Swoboda]

Originally Posted by Ron Pilger

You made the right decision to go retrieve the car yourself. Take time and take photos. Your road trip will be full of positive memories. If you're like the rest of this in this stupid hobby your cheeks will be sore from smiling the entire ride home. Enjoy and cherish the trip and a year and model of car that just about anyone on this forum would be proud to own.

Well said Ron.

[barnfind]

Check condition of the trailer tires. My experience is they go bad in a few years if not stored inside.

[Low-Blow]

Thanks for all of the replies. After driving almost 1700 miles, I arrived this afternoon to pick up the car. The gentleman had it stored in a friend’s garage just a few minutes away. He called his friend last night to tell him to move his other vehicles out of the driveway, so that we could get the 35 out of the garage. Needless to say, that did not happen. I was able to go ahead and see the car, as well as hear it run. We left the car there, and returned to his shop to try and get a hold of his friend. After numerous tries, he decided to have another friend come help him move the car that was in the way; by any means necessary. I did not accompany the two gentlemen back to the house, but within 20 minutes he was driving up with the 35!! We were able to get the car loaded and secured for transport. I am beyond excited. The car appears to be super solid. I will post pictures whenever I can get to a computer. For whatever reason, it is not allowing me to upload them from my phone. So, I will sign off for now. Texas is a long way from Pennsylvania!!

[Low-Blow]

Here are some pics.

[Low-Blow]

More pics.

[Low-Blow]

Pics of the car loaded.

[tubman]

Boy, does that look nice! I'll bet you're glad you pulled the trigger. Seeing a car like that makes all the trials and tribulations worth it. Congratulations on your new car!

I bought a 39k mile '36 slantback in 1960. I was a one owner original from the proverbial "little old lady" (a classmates aunt), but I don't think it was as nice as this one appears to be.

[fordv8j]

Great looking car, looks like you hit the jackpot, nothing like driving an old FORD v-8

[GaryU.]

Congratulations, looks awesome. Drive carefully home and take your time, the reward for your journey will be long lasting.

[Ron Pilger]

Black, straight and shiny! Something tells me it will run every bit as great as it looks!

[Mike in AZ]

Looks like a great score. Congrats!!! Mike

[Mike Peters]

Couple questions.. Is that an oil pressure gauge to the left of the gas gauge? What is the pipe with the 90 degree bend under the hood going towards the fire wall? Manifold heater?
Beautiful car. You did the world a favor getting this one out of mothballs.

[petehoovie]

What a great looking car that is. Love the looks of slant-backs. You're a lucky guy! Makes me wish I weren't getting out of the hobby....

[JM 35 Sedan]

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That's a real beauty!! Congratulations, you did very well!! I think the standard models have a unique personality all of their own, and that's the way I would keep it.

[VeryTangled]

Originally Posted by Mike Peters

Couple questions.. Is that an oil pressure gauge to the left of the gas gauge?

Yes it is. Left to right: combination of oil pressure & fuel quantity, spedo etc, combination of temp & amps.

Originally Posted by Mike Peters

What is the pipe with the 90 degree bend under the hood going towards the fire wall? Manifold heater?

Definitely heater. Unique design. See the added knob to the right of the glove box?

[VeryTangled]

Hi Everyone. Low-Blow, wow, just wow.

Somebody has loved-up that car, and you're the caretaker now! YeeHaw! You done good!!

That speedometer is really sharp looking! Personally I'd smile every time my eye set upon that jewel!

Can I be so bold to request some photos of the underside when you get a chance? (Axles, brakes, trans, shocks, exhaust.) It's looking like it's been kept true to original so far.

That's an interesting number on the firewall. Maybe newish water pumps (and no thermostats just like my '36), a sign that someone might have sorted it out. And it's hard to tell what the fuel pump has going on.

Keep this thread alive it's a great start to a story yet to come...

[Dave Castle]

Nice find, enjoy !!!

[Anteek29]

WOW...I am soooo jealous...you SCORED!

[Seth Swoboda]

Low-Blow,

That is a really nice car you have just purchased. I'd be proud to own that '35 Standard too. Drive it and enjoy it. It's an early V8 classic.

I'd like to make a suggestion that you join the Early Ford V8 Club. As John Mason says the bi-monthly magazine is worth the cost of admission alone. The club is having a Grand National meet in Dearborn Michigan this coming June. We'd like to see you and that beautiful car attending. Check out the Early Ford V8 Club web page for details. https://www.earlyfordv8.org/Upcoming_Events.cfm

Congratulations!
Seth

[glennsanders]

Nice looking car, your hooked now.Life will not be the same.At least mine did. Welcome to the 35 group.

[Low-Blow]

Thank you for all the comments. I still have not made it home yet. As of right now I’ve been almost 1300 miles in just over 24 hours. I still have over 200 miles left. Everything has gone very smooth on the drive and the car is exactly where we placed her in the trailer! I will definitely get more pictures when I have some time to get around the car.

[JM 35 Sedan]

Originally Posted by Low-Blow

Thank you for all the comments. I still have not made it home yet. As of right now I’ve been almost 1300 miles in just over 24 hours. I still have over 200 miles left. Everything has gone very smooth on the drive and the car is exactly where we placed her in the trailer! I will definitely get more pictures when I have some time to get around the car.

Yes, please post more pictures when you get a chance. Some pics of the undercarriage from front, rear and sides. Engine compartment, under fenders, grille, and more of interior and exterior would be great. I've seen some things in your previously posted pics that I wanted to comment on (nothing negative) but will wait to see your additional pictures.
Have a safe trip the remainder of your way home.

[Pat/Ohio]

Great find! One of my favorite body styles! I see that it is a later '35 ("X" on the sides of the cowls). I wish I had one. Enjoy your car...I know you will! By all means...look up the nearest Early Ford V-8 Club Regional group in your area. You have many friends "just around the corner!" Good luck, Pat

[TomT/Williamsburg]

That's s great looking car - if it's half as nice as the pics you scored! Good luck with it ....

[TonyM]

Nice looking car. Good luck.

[Low-Blow]

Got the car home on Saturday. Because of some prior engagements that day, and church on Sunday, I was not able to unload the car until this morning. I have a video of me backing the car out of the trailer. I am trying to get it to upload. I may have to put it on YouTube and then just post a link. I decided to take my wife for a ride in the car down to the local country store; about 4 miles from the house. The car drove well. But as we got to the store, I noticed that the temperature was beginning to climb. We left the car running for a few minutes while we went into the store. When we came out, I could see coolant on the ground. And, the temperature gauge was maxed out. I killed the car, and called a good buddy of mine (who happens to be an antique car guy). He came down and picked me up, drove me back to my house, so that I could bring the trailer down to load the car again. I ended up taking it to his house and putting it in his garage until I could take a closer look at where the leak is coming from. Kind of a bummer, but I'm actually not mad about it. I understand that these older cars have bugs that need to be worked out. The car has not really been driven in a long time. My wife and I had to run some errands today. But, I have a feeling that Mr. David is at home working on my car! He is a wonderful man and I am glad to have him so close.

[rotorwrench]

Fords of that era didn't like to sit and idle much but they generally will on cooler days. It may be something simple. Troubleshoot for the usual coolant leak possibilities and go from there. Skip Haney has a better design water pump impellers that a lot of folks go for when they get him to overhaul the pumps. A 4-psi valve can be installed on the overflow tube to increase the coolant boiling point. Lots of other possibles but check the easy stuff first.

That car looks better that the old 35 my Pop had during the early war years. He drove that car from Iowa to California then back to Texas & on to Florida during his training before going overseas.

[mercman from oz]

Congratulations on your new purchase. Great looking car. You did well.

[Low-Blow]

I had a lot of errands to run today, and did not get a chance to work on the car. This evening, I went down to my friend’s house to visit with him about the car. He did not have an opportunity to look at it today. But, we have a game plan for tomorrow. As I was leaving, I snapped this pic of the ‘35 in his garage, along side his ‘57 Thunderbird. I thought it turned out well!

[RalphM]

I love pictures like that, makes me think of some guy burning the midnight oil to get his car ready for the next day!

[mercman from oz]

Picture perfect with just right lighting.

[Low-Blow]

Originally Posted by JM 35 Sedan

Yes, please post more pictures when you get a chance. Some pics of the undercarriage from front, rear and sides. Engine compartment, under fenders, grille, and more of interior and exterior would be great. I've seen some things in your previously posted pics that I wanted to comment on (nothing negative) but will wait to see your additional pictures.
Have a safe trip the remainder of your way home.

I was able to get some more pics of the car today. Undercarriage is dirty, but I have yet to see any rot. Everything looks solid!

[Low-Blow]

Here are some more pictures

[Low-Blow]

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Here are a few of my favorite things about the car. Sorry about the sideways pics. I uploaded them from my phone.

[petehoovie]

I'm wondering....Are the wood braces under the floor correct?

[tubman]

Originally Posted by petehoovie

I'm wondering....Are the wood braces under the floor correct?

They've been on every one I've seen.

[Randy in ca]

Originally Posted by petehoovie

I'm wondering....Are the wood braces under the floor correct?

All but very early '35's had them.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Randy in ca

All but very early '35's had them.

Were they unique to the '35 model year or did the '36's have them as well?....

[Randy in ca]

Originally Posted by petehoovie

Were they unique to the '35 model year or did the '36's have them as well?....

-
Yes, I should have said that '36's also had them.

[Low-Blow]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

Fords of that era didn't like to sit and idle much but they generally will on cooler days. It may be something simple. Troubleshoot for the usual coolant leak possibilities and go from there. Skip Haney has a better design water pump impellers that a lot of folks go for when they get him to overhaul the pumps. A 4-psi valve can be installed on the overflow tube to increase the coolant boiling point. Lots of other possibles but check the easy stuff first.

Well, it appears that the radiator is leaking from the bottom. I am going to pull the radiator and have it checked out. I’ve read a few different threads about removing the radiator. Is it best to leave the grill on, or remove the grill?

[KiWinUS]

leave grille, remove hood ,upper support rods put corrugated cardboard on face of core , disconnect battery , remover fan , generator ,radiator hoses , remove all bolts holding radiator top sides to grille , remove both lowere radiator mount bolt assemblies. Now you are ready to lift radiator out. It is a little tricky but will come out no prob. Look down where the grille & inner panels bolt together & you will see kind of a wide slot both sides , as you lift radiator up these slots give room to slip radiator feet through. Now these instructions work on a 36 so can only assume 35 is same.
Good Luck!
Cheers
Tony

[JM 35 Sedan]

The last time I removed the radiator in my 35 fordor (avatar) I did it by leaving the grille in place. This worked a lot better for me than when I removed the grille to do this previously. There was one tricky part that involved prying up the top of the grille ever so slightly/carefully to allow the top of the radiator to tilt back far enough to come out from under the top of the grille, after doing what Tony described in his post above.

[Low-Blow]

Do I need to remove the distributor? I’m having a hard time getting it past it.

[KiWinUS]

Not in 36 , don,t know about 35.
You may have to twist it sidways some , not just lift straight up.
I don't see cardboard on your core to protect it !!! I very important detail , looks like you may already have some marks on core from coil.
cheers
Tony

[Low-Blow]

Yes, I put cardboard on the core once I noticed it was going to hit / rub the coil. I may need a second person to help me get it out.

[JM 35 Sedan]

I may have had to remove the distributor as well to get the radiator out with grille still in place. Can't remember, its been awhile since I did this.

[Low-Blow]

What’s the procedure for removing the coil?

[Low-Blow]

After site crash bump!

[Brian]

I always remove distributor and water pumps, just to give more room

[Low-Blow]

How much room is needed for the distributor to come out? Does it not have a long shaft?

[petehoovie]

No "long shaft"....

[Low-Blow]

Would it be easier to disconnect the plug wires from the spark plugs and remove the distributor with the wires in tact? Or, should I take the wires loose at the disributor?

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Low-Blow

Would it be easier to disconnect the plug wires from the spark plugs and remove the distributor with the wires in tact? Or, should I take the wires loose at the disributor?

Just unsnap the bails from the side caps on the distributor and pull the cap assembly off....No need to remove the spark plug wires.

[Low-Blow]

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Thanks!!

[petehoovie]

Don't forget to remove the wire from the coil and disconnecting the vacuum line........

[Low-Blow]

Well, it’s finally out! I ended up having to remove one of the water pumps as well. You’ll notice from the pics that part of the cap remained in the housing of the distributor. I hope this is not an issue. Also, can I reuse the distributor gasket, or should I get a new one? I’m taking the radiator to the shop first thing Monday morning. If it can be repaired, I’ll be looking at a day and a half turn around time. I’m looking forward to getting it all back together and on the road!

[Low-Blow]

Not sure why the pics are turned sideways. Sorry.

[petehoovie]

The gasket doesn't look damaged/torn. You can probably get away with reusing it. Sounds like you're in a hurry. Be sure you don't plug that hole above the bearing....

[Charlie ny]

LB,
FYI your distributor appears to be retarded judging by the position of the timing
tab. Clean stuff up and use the age old PERMATEX #2.......comes in 1/2 pt brush bottle.
Be sure to line up the OFFSET tang on the rotor shaft to line up with the OFFSET slot in the cam when you reinstall the distributor.
Love your sedan.......mine was black too with green wheels and stripe
Charlie ny

[Low-Blow]

Can someone tell me what the capacity of the cooling system is? And, is there anything special that I need to use regarding the fluids?

[VeryTangled]

Roughly 4.5 to 5 gal. Your choice of coolant 50/50 with distilled water is my choice.

[Low-Blow]

Well, it's been a little while since I last posted an update. I was able to get the radiator fixed and get it back in the car. Since then, I have put almost 100 miles on it. It appears that the engine is getting about 11 miles per gallon. I figured this to be normal. If not, please let me know. I am not sure how accurate the original gauges are, but the engine temperature runs near the top of the normal range. When I kill it, the temperature pegs out, and if you touch the upper hose, you can feel what appears to be boiling. Maybe it is just air bubbles, I am not sure. The upper hose is not so hot that I cannot hold it for an extended period of time. The radiator cap needs to be replace, as the rubber has deteriorated on the original one. I am also going to replace the hoses and clamps.

On a sadder note, I accidentally leaned on the top of the grill shell and broke the V8 emblem. It mad a clean break just above the Ford ring. I'm hoping I can get something to hold it together, where it won't be extremely noticeable.

[FlatheadTed]

If you have replaced the core and the motor has been sitting for a while there's a chance that rust has deposited on the top of the core in the top tank .reverse flush then Run some stockings in the top hoses ,Ted