1936 Truck restoration

[1stford]

My grandfather had a restoration shop in California and he worked on late 30 and 40 ford and Mercury's. This 1936 Ford truck was his shop truck, bought by him in 1961. This truck is the truck my mom learned to drive on. About 20-25 years ago He took this truck apart and it sat there. Last year he got sick and gave me as many pieces to the truck he could find. Im taking it down to the bare frame and making it a truck that hopefully I will teach my girls to drive on. I know not much about early fords but have been finding my way slowly. I will post pics here for help and to show. Any pointers or thoughts would be appreciated.
Thanks

[JSeery]

Nice!

[1stford]

Thought I would show gramps Merc.

[mhsprecher]

Both nice. The truck looks great for "just a bunch of parts."

[1stford]

[cmbrucew]

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Your grandfather produced fine work. I hope you paid close attention and inherited his
skills.
If you post your general address everyone here on the barn can bid you welcome as I have.
Probably some are close and be able to assist you better.
Bruce

[1stford]

I'm trying to get my pictures all up. I needed to rebuild the trans and motor. By my estimate and research it appears the transmission is a 36 model and the engine is from a 49. heads marked as 8BA. Thinking I might need to change out the spark plug wires for the original look?

[JM 35 Sedan]

The truck looks nice to begin with and appears to be a pretty solid piece for restoration.
The transmission looks more like a '39 to me, or it could be a '35-'36 case with '39-'48 gears, and '39 style shifter top/tower. If you check the serial number on the flat area above the clutch inspection plate, that would tell which year and month the case was used in production. There is also a casting part number on the back of the case that will tell which year(s) it was used in production.
Welcome to Fordbarn

[Mike in AZ]

welcome to the 'Barn...nice project....and it looks like you've inherited some of your grandfather's skills with your work so far....link is to MacVP's website with ID numbers, etc...lots of good info there....Mike

http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/f...ialnumbers.htm

[VeryTangled]

Originally Posted by 1stford

Thought I would show gramps Merc.

I think your gramps did you a real 'solid' with that deal! I think I'd take yours over his though!

Welcome to the FordBarn Forums!

[Jeff/Illinois]

VERY nice '36. You have a really nice pickup to start with, and thank you for doing it stock and not chopping up and cobbling this fine example all to heck

[FlatheadTed]

Man n n that's one beautiful truck, look at all the patina on the bed, just keep it like Jeff says, I am glad your not monkeying with it ,Ted

[1stford]

Originally Posted by Jeff/Illinois

VERY nice '36. You have a really nice pickup to start with, and thank you for doing it stock and not chopping up and cobbling this fine example all to heck

When I picked up the truck gramps "suggested" that it stay stock. He said that there are plenty of fords with small blocks floating around. I'm doing my best to keep it original.

[Heard]

That thing looks GREAT! Congrats! Lots of help here for just about any questions you may have.

[FortyNiner]

Good project. Always a worthy task to get a legacy truck back on the road - especially in close to original condition. Enjoy the ride.

[1stford]

Are there in general torque specs or a book that has chassis torque specs for my truck. Specifically, now, I'm wondering how tight to get the bolts that hold my front backing plates to the spindle.

Thanks.
Jeremie

[Mike in AZ]

here ya go with some torque specs....again from MacVP's website....Mike

http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/f...ecs32-48V8.htm

[KDL]

Great looking truck.

[big job]

Real sweet but I think you really need a steering wheel ?

[1stford]

Originally Posted by big job

Real sweet but I think you really need a steering wheel ?

That was going to be one of my next questions. Anyone know who does a great job at restoring steering wheels or sells a nice one already restored?

[1stford]

I'm still getting caught up on the progress of this thing. I had all the frame parts powder coated and I got it back about a month ago. If any of you guys see anything that looks wrong let me know. I'm still learning.

[Scott H in Wheaton]

Where's all the junk?

[1stford]

Does anyone have any pictures of the fuel line location from fuel tank to engine. I'm wanting to make sure I run it correctly.
Thank you

[Jeff/Illinois]

Beautiful. Can't wait to see the finished product well done.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by 1stford

Does anyone have any pictures of the fuel line location from fuel tank to engine. I'm wanting to make sure I run it correctly.
Thank you

Here's a couple of pics of a '40 chassis (essentially the same thing) that will give ya an idea of the path from the tank, to where the hard line stops at the firewall area. It basically runs inside the main frame rail, and is clamped securely every so often. The rest of the way is easy to run, up the firewall. Use STEEL lines. What you see in the pics is copper-coated steel......NOT copper lines. Pay no attention to the copper vacuum lines going to the Columbia O/D. Hope this helps! Thanks to KUBE for the pics of one of his beautiful restorations. DD

[V8COOPMAN]

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Here's one last pic to show the rest of the run. Note the copper-colored line at lower right of pic, near frame/firewall junction. It heads UPward, then turns horizontally to meet with the soft line, which ends-up at the fuel pump. This is all STOCK '40. DD

[Byron Warwick]

Congrats. on starting your restoration. I know some like to see the original scratched up paint just waxed and kept as is. However by the looks of your frame work, you are going to make it look like new and i think it will look great. Mine took 10 years to complete. Lots of help on "The Barn".

[1stford]

That 40 looks awesome. Thank you guys for the help. I'm going to try and post some more recent pictures of the project.

[Talkwrench]

All to shinny.......

[Ron Pilger]

Near as I can tell there is only one problem with this truck.....that being that this truck is not in my garage. Oh, how jealous I am. What an outstanding specimen of a truly great year of Fords finest work. Best of luck in what appears to be a first class build.

[coupeA31]

Nice truck! Do you have may be a horn in your spare part box for my 35 ford pickup?
[email protected]

[Adam/Mill Valley CA]

Love your truck, and your shop space is like a small piece of heaven!

Adam

[1stford]

I'm sorry I don't have any extra horns. My truck appreciates all the nice things you guys have said. I told her and she blushed. I do have these two parts and I'm not sure where they go, any ideas?

[VeryTangled]

Hi Everyone. Those are splash pans. Mount from underneath. The pointy one with the hole goes under the radiator. The other one is one of the sides. I think there are three. Almost all of them look like yours, off the car, stacked with the battery cover, cuz when on they prevent access to dizzy for example. Still, they help cooling, and water coming from below onto the engine bits.

[1stford]

Another question, sorry I've got so many. In regards to the running boards on the truck, were they just painted from the factory or is there some type of cover that should be over the running board. If there's something that goes over it what would it be?

[VeryTangled]

1stford, I don't have one of those beauties, but my impression is that the running boards on a '36 'commercial' 1/2 ton are painted with nothing on top.

[1stford]

Does anyone happen to have any pictures of the above mentioned splash gaurds installed? I can't figure out where they bolt up to.

Thanks.

[Bored&Stroked]

You're doing a great job and I'm very happy to see that you're continuing with a flathead, a 39 transmission and sticking with an original type build. Very nice work - can't wait to see when it is done.

[kiwitony]

Yes you are doing a great job, The only problem that I can see is you have put the brake pedal on the wrong side. HaHa. Tony.

[1stford]

Here are a couple of pictures that bring it up to where I am in my project. Thanks for looking.

[1stford]

Just wanted to put some updated info on where I am. Anything that anyone sees through this process please PM me or post any help. I'm looking for any help or suggestions.

[Jeff/Illinois]

You're doing a first rate job love your truck

Pop's '36 PU was originally that color. Did they call it Vineyard Green or something like that?

[1stford]

Jeff,

Thank you. The color I'm spraying this is vineyard green. If my research is correct this is a 35 color but it seemed to match the best to what I could find as original paint on it.

[Bored&Stroked]

Very nice work - you're going to have one heck of a nice truck and will enjoy the heck out of taking it down the road. Keep after it!

D

[Brendan]

Looks good!

[JM 35 Sedan]

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Hi Jeremie, good talking to you yesterday. It looks like you are doing a great job based on the pictures you have posted here. I'm not certain that radiator splash pan is correct for your truck, but with all the folks here who have these trucks, someone should know which pan is correct, and could probably post a picture. The right side engine splash pan you have looks correct, all you need to find is a left side engine splash pan. Both L&R engine splash pans bolt to the underside of the top frame rail, and are the same as parts used on passenger cars. The steering wheel shown in your picture looks like a later model Ford wheel to me. Not sure a 35 - 36 horn, light switch rod will fit up correctly with that wheel. There is a repro 36 steering wheel available that would put you back to looking and working like the stock set up.
I would suggest keeping this thread alive with your updates, pictures, and questions. Many of us here can help you with info and parts necessary to get this truck done.

[1stford]

Thanks a bunch for you input John.

[1stford]

The engine and transmission went in yesterday. As mentioned above this is my 1st run with a rig like this so if anyones see's anything that I'm missing please let me know.

Thanks

[Bored&Stroked]

Looks fantastic to me - I bet you can't wait to drive it!

[V8COOPMAN]

Something's WRONG here! That shop, everything in it, PLUS the workmanship on that chassis is just TOO CLEAN for words. I'm diggin' it ALL big time. Your brake lines turned-out SUPER nice. In fact, that whole chassis is SUPER nice. DD

[1stford]

Originally Posted by V8COOPMAN

Something's WRONG here! That shop, everything in it, PLUS the workmanship on that chassis is just TOO CLEAN for words. I'm diggin' it ALL big time. Your brake lines turned-out SUPER nice. In fact, that whole chassis is SUPER nice. DD

Thanks so much! Appreciate all the help you were in getting me some pics of the lines.

[1stford]

Body work is getting closer to being done. I'm thankful that no metal had to be replaced as this body is very solid.

[GB SISSON]

Originally Posted by 1stford

Body work is getting closer to being done. I'm thankful that no metal had to be replaced as this body is very solid.

Very nice workmanship! The chassis you put together is a work of art.

[Talkwrench]

Ohhh so shiny ...

[1stford]

Posting some update pictures. The cab, doors and hood were all painted this weekend. Thanks for checking her out.

[JSeery]

Very nice indeed!

[AnthonyG]

Wow, great shape, as said love the patina. Consider just cleaning up and sealing and keep the look. Looks like you've got the jump on rebuilding the tranny and engine, nice job. beautiful PU. Love Grampa's Merc. too, real beauty. Looks like he really took pride in the build. didn't see any reference to your '36 having an engine update. Engine looks like an 8BA? https://www.google.com/search?q=1949...y-eMjMGRaX-vM:
I believe 1936 had an engine designation #68 21 stud 221 with cast in bell housing. http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/f...cs-85early.htm
Yours has no cast bell housing & newer distributor. I like the 8BA, better power a little easier to work on. Distributor not as cool as the Dizzy but much easier to play with.
Best of luck with a great looking Ride & welcome to the Barn.

[Steel 35]

Look's great. I replaced my steering wheel and am very happy with it.

I also put line x on the running boards, I new they would get scratched up using the truck and it would drive me crazier.

[fordv8j]

A real jewell

[Lawson Cox]

I see you have an early 36. Around March or May Ford began making the bed sides from a little bit thinner metal, and added a bed side stiffener on the sides of the bed at about the center of the wheel line or axel. This continued for several years.

[Karl Wescott]

Originally Posted by 1stford

I'm sorry I don't have any extra horns. My truck appreciates all the nice things you guys have said. I told her and she blushed. I do have these two parts and I'm not sure where they go, any ideas?

This is the correct under grille pan for the 1936. The pointy end bolts to the bottom of the grille... you should be able to find holes to attach it in the back.

[Karl Wescott]

Originally Posted by 1stford

I'm sorry I don't have any extra horns. My truck appreciates all the nice things you guys have said. I told her and she blushed. I do have these two parts and I'm not sure where they go, any ideas?

This is the correct under grille pan for the 1936. The pointy end bolts to the bottom of the grille... you should be able to find holes to attach it in the back.

[al's28/33]

GREAT project and PLEASE keep posting pics. YES...keep it in the family and use it!
Best of Luck!!!!!

[zippi]

Very nice looking 36. Work looks great.

[Jeff/Illinois]

1stford..... only 'problem' I see with your project is, it's going to be too nice to drive!! You're gonna hafta find a 'driver' and put this one away!!

Beautiful thanks for the updates keep them coming as you go

[1stford]

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So I was going through a box of parts and found these gems. It's my understanding that my G pa restored these some time back. The temp sending line has been cut, is there something to do so I'm able to add a new line or extend this one?

[Bored&Stroked]

I don't believe you can 'fix' the temp unit yourself - it is like a sealed thermometer. There are places that restore gauges and can fix the unit, test/calibrate it, etc..

You might want to call these guys (not sure they do your particular unit, but worth checking out):

Ron Beliles
WILLIAMSON'S INSTRUMENTS, INC.
2018 E. Front Ave.
Chester, Arkansas 72934
479-369-2551

[1stford]

Thank you. I live in Arkansas so thats perfect!

[1stford]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

I don't believe you can 'fix' the temp unit yourself - it is like a sealed thermometer. There are places that restore gauges and can fix the unit, test/calibrate it, etc..

You might want to call these guys (not sure they do your particular unit, but worth checking out):

Ron Beliles
WILLIAMSON'S INSTRUMENTS, INC.
2018 E. Front Ave.
Chester, Arkansas 72934
479-369-2551

Wanted to say thanks for referring me to Ron. He currently has my temp gauge and is adding the sending unit to it. Much appreciated.

[1stford]

Thought I might give a quick update on where I am.
I just got my radiator back and it was here long enough to go right into the car. Getting things set on the body and lined up.

[Mike in AZ]

looking good...Mike

[Jeff/Illinois]

Love it thanks for keeping us posted.

[1stford]

Some updated pictures. Thanks for looking

[JM 35 Sedan]

Looks like it's coming together very nicely!! Heck, at the pace you're going, you might be driving that baby in a week or two

[JSeery]

Looking Good!

[1stford]

Default Re: Restoration help
So I'm at the point where I'm going to start on my electrical. I've not ever done a car this far back but want to keep the appearance of original most likely using 12v. I have all new wiring harnesses for everything and and a voltage regulator, that's the extent of my electrical parts. Just needing some direction ok what else I will need and where to get an original look 12v battery. (Does it go in the engine compartment or under floorboard for a 1936 truck.
Thank you for your feedback.

[JSeery]

You'll need a generator that can output 12v. Several ways to get there, the best approach IMO is the alternator conversions inside an original generator housing. I have used Whitney if your interested. I keep the voltage regulator and use it for a wiring terminal. If your wanting to stick with a generator they can be reworked to output 12v. Also need to decide if your going to go with something similar to original for a fuse panel or something more modern. If your using original gauges you will need the voltage drops.

[1stford]

Originally Posted by JSeery

You'll need a generator that can output 12v. Several ways to get there, the best approach IMO is the alternator conversions inside an original generator housing. I have used Whitney if your interested. I keep the voltage regulator and use it for a wiring terminal. If your wanting to stick with a generator they can be reworked to output 12v. Also need to decide if your going to go with something similar to original for a fuse panel or something more modern. If your using original gauges you will need the voltage drops.

Thanks for the info
I don't think I've even seen, I have not looked, a fuse box yet. Is there anyone that sells an original looking 12 v battery?

[1stford]

I'm going to go with original wiring and fuse block. I'm going to run a 12 volt system so any tips on what I might need to convert that would be helpful. I currently have the generator that went in a 49 8ba.

[flatheadmurre]

Either you take the regulator and fields from a -56 up and use them to convert your generator to 12 or go for a alternator coversion as Jseery recomended.
You need a regulator to drop the voltage feeding the gauges.
A dropping resistor to heating fan.
A 12v flasher relay.
Some bulbs.

[1stford]

Thought I'd give some updated progress.

[Vintage Copper 47]

Beautiful... I wish I had a garage like that.. my house (built in 1948) has a one-car garage & a workshop.. but nothing like yours!

[totto]

I like the color----Looks REAL NICE!!!!

[1stford]

Originally Posted by totto

I like the color----Looks REAL NICE!!!!

Looks a little bit like your color!

[Lawson Cox]

To be original, your running boards should be black. Pinstripe on 36 is on the belt mold on the hood, doors and cab. 35 had stripe 5/8" below belt mold. I like stripe location on 36 better. BEAUTIFUL TRUCK.

[1stford]

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Originally Posted by Lawson Cox

To be original, your running boards should be black. Pinstripe on 36 is on the belt mold on the hood, doors and cab. 35 had stripe 5/8" below belt mold. I like stripe location on 36 better. BEAUTIFUL TRUCK.

I just sent you message to get a little more info on the pinstripe.
Thanks

[corvette8n]

The color reminds me of the "ma bell" telephone trucks that ran around my neighbourhood 60 years ago.

[Jeff/Illinois]

Thanks for the updates much appreciated looking good

[Bored&Stroked]

I love it - who wouldn't want this truck!

[1stford]

Heres some updated pictures of the project

[GB SISSON]

That's about as nice as it gets for a pickup IMHO.

[47Sooner]

Excellent job on the restoration of this 36. I'm not sure my 36 could be brought back to this condition but the 37 I picked up could be. Enjoying your progress.

[36and63]

Your truck is really looking nice!!

Pat

[1stford]

Thank you guys for the replys. I ordered what should be the last of my bolts, screws and hardware from Roy Nacewitz tonight. Still have to finish the interior and wire her up.

Ive made zero progress on exhaust yet so if anyone has any thoughts on that I'm open ears. Love to just buy a stock system.

[FlatheadTed]

Its up to you whether to go to 12 volt but a 6 volt optima has a kick like a 12 volt ,so that leaves only your lights to deal with and you can sort that with the Drake /Macs quarts halogen kit ,If you go 12V you need to consider the chances of being on the side of the road with a broken bendex Ted

[FlatheadTed]

Here's a few exhaust shots ,the trucks the same as a car, Nice truck to ,Ted

[FlatheadTed]

I just did a up grade on my 35 so these may be of help ,yours will be a mirror of this since its left hand drive ,The two rusty pipes are Ford issue , the front pipe enters the muffler at 12-0 and exits at 8-0Ted

[1stford]

Need some electrical help from some pros, here's where I am:
All new 1936 wiring harness
8ba motor and generator.
It's been converted to Hydo brakes so I'm thinking about moving the battery to the passenger side floor board, under it.
What additional electrical will I need to make this work? I understand my harness is short one wire to the generator as well?

[Charlie Stephens]

Originally Posted by 1stford

Need some electrical help from some pros, here's where I am:
All new 1936 wiring harness
8ba motor and generator.
It's been converted to Hydo brakes so I'm thinking about moving the battery to the passenger side floor board, under it.
What additional electrical will I need to make this work? I understand my harness is short one wire to the generator as well?

Any chance an Optima would fit on the drivers side?

Charlie Stephens

[1stford]

12v?

[flat-v8]

Boy you sure know how to paint, awesome job, looks great!

[Lawson Cox]

Originally Posted by FlatheadTed

Here's a few exhaust shots ,the trucks the same as a car, Nice truck to ,Ted

Ted:

The exhaust system on the car and pickup is the same EXCEPT the tail pipe on the pickup is 4" shorter. I still need to circumcise mine. I keep hitting my leg on it. (Tailpipe that is.) LOL

[marko]

This question is gonna show ya how lil I know., but isn't that one pic of the starter.. isn't it on backwards? I thought the starter spring drive thingy would be point in the opposite direction towards the back of the engine.?

[Don Rogers]

Don't forget that with a later engine and exhaust manifolds you can use a 35-36 exhaust pipe.

[1stford]

Worked a bit on the inside tonight. Heres a few pictures of the gauges in the truck. Didn't break or scratch anything so I'm thinking it went well. Have a question about he starter button you see here on the left. There was a hole there and the switch was in the pile of parts but I don't see it in any diagrams as they all show a foot starter switch. Anyone have any info on that?

[Jeff/Illinois]

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1stFord our '36 pickup was converted to that starter button on the dash, same as yours, I'm guessing back in the 50's. Pop's '36 one owner original pickup that he bought in the early 50's already had had that done.

I think it was common practice as that freed up a foot to do other things while you start the truck. I don't believe it will affect your truck's value, I may be wrong. Joe's Antique Auto parts lists them at about seven bucks, page 51. Get his catalog if you don't already have it, good source for Early Ford V-8 parts. Download parts catalogue here:

http://www.joesantiqueauto.com/

[36Bill]

My '36 has the light switch there and the starter on the floor.

[1stford]

Originally Posted by 36Bill

My '36 has the light switch there and the starter on the floor.

Its my understanding that the light switches with the horn button? Is there another light switch that is needed.

Thanks

[Jeff/Illinois]

Originally Posted by 1stford

Its my understanding that the light switches with the horn button? Is there another light switch that is needed.

Thanks

You are correct same set up as a Model A Ford. Light switch is in the center of the steering wheel surrounds the horn button.

[36Bill]

Yes it should be on the steering wheel but when it quite a long time ago some farmer just put the switch on the dash and I left it there. It's been like that for 60 years.

[1stford]

It appears that the steering wheel does not want to slide down enough for me to start the bolt. I've hit it with a rubber mallet a few times, hard enough for it to go on and no luck. Before I continue to beat on this thing is there any reason this steering wheel would not go on this shaft?

['36 5W]

Can't see the width of the spokes , but it appears to be a '46-48 model.

[VeryTangled]

Originally Posted by 1stford

Before I continue to beat on this thing is there any reason this steering wheel would not go on this shaft?

I'm agreeing with '36 5W above, and please remember, I'm not a parts expert, but that wheel doesn't look like the one on my '35 Fordor which has three spokes (see photo). My '36 Phaeton has a banjo, but it has three spokes too.

[1stford]

Anyone have a 36 truck steering wheel for sale?

[Jeff/Illinois]

Yeah wrong steering wheel mine is a three spoke and 'skinny'. Good thing you didn't get out the BIG hammer to drive it home it would have messed things up..........

[36tudordeluxe]

Noticed in earlier picture the engine had Merc heads and now has Ford heads; have you decided how you will handle fan, generator and upper radiator hose issues? BTW, that's a beautiful job you're doing; would look great in my garage as well!

[1stford]

Originally Posted by 36tudordeluxe

Noticed in earlier picture the engine had Merc heads and now has Ford heads; have you decided how you will handle fan, generator and upper radiator hose issues? BTW, that's a beautiful job you're doing; would look great in my garage as well!

Great question. I ordered a set of outlets for my heads from Flathead Jack. I'm thinking I'm going to use a flex radiator hose to get it where it needs to go. I'm hoping I don't have a fan and generator issue but your question makes me think I might?

[FlatheadTed]

The wheel should still go on check it with key way removed Ted

[36tudordeluxe]

Originally Posted by 1stford

Great question. I ordered a set of outlets for my heads from Flathead Jack. I'm thinking I'm going to use a flex radiator hose to get it where it needs to go. I'm hoping I don't have a fan and generator issue but your question makes me think I might?

I never did figure out a way to keep the mechanical fan but I think there're others on this site who have. I went with an electric fan and alternator; it was a tight fit but have no regrets.

[1stford]

Originally Posted by 36tudordeluxe

I never did figure out a way to keep the mechanical fan but I think there're others on this site who have. I went with an electric fan and alternator; it was a tight fit but have no regrets.

I have not hooked the radiator up yet so I didn't know that was a problem, bummer. Maybe someone will give me some feed back as to what they did to correct the issue. I want to keep the mechanical fan and factory look.

[1stford]

Ok so I had to run down to the shop and put the fan on with the generator. At first glance it appears all is well unless it's going to matter that the fan is towards the bottom of the radiator VS the top.

Ted,
I pulled the key and the steering wheel is still a no go. Thanks for the thought.

[36tudordeluxe]

Originally Posted by 1stford

Ok so I had to run down to the shop and put the fan on with the generator. At first glance it appears all is well unless it's going to matter that the fan is towards the bottom of the radiator VS the top.

Ted,
I pulled the key and the steering wheel is still a no go. Thanks for the thought.

Don't know why I had problems with fan but also crank pulley clearing front crossmember.

[Bored&Stroked]

Fan/Pulleys/Belts/Heads: It is all about what type of configuration you have on the front of the engine (along with the heads). The 36 engine would have had 1 wide belt and the crankshaft pulley would have located the belt right close to the timing cover. The 36 engine had water pumps in the heads - but they aligned in the same general vertical plane as the 37 - 48 pumps. This made it easy to put a later 59AB type engine in an earlier car - once one figures out the motor-mounts needed. So - if you're running a later 49-53 engine with the distributor to the side and the water pump belts further forward (as most the later pumps are . . . (so the belt clears the side-mount distributor), then you can have drama with an early car (pulley clearances, belts, fan, etc). In my mind, the 'best' setup is to put the early 'front of the motor' and sometimes 'center outlet heads' on the later motor (cam and all) - such that you can run a helmet or crab style distributor (off the timing cover), the standard 37-48 water pumps and the generator with the fan mounted on the front of it. This is by far the easiest way to setup these engines - and in the end, things just fit a bit better and in my mind, looks the best.

With that said - there are a ton of folks that have put a 49-53 engine (pumps, belts and all) in earlier cars - with all sorts of fun related to engine location, engine height, belt clearances, fan setup, etc..

I like to keep it 'early' and simple! Just makes things so much easier in my mind.

[1stford]

So I took a couple of pictures of my current set up as there is some discussion about it above. I've not measured but it looks like I've got about 3/4 to 1 inch space between the fan and radiator. It does have the fan sitting at the bottom half of the radiator vs the top, not sure how much if any that changes anything?

On another note, my throttle rod appears to have nothing to hook to as the drivers side of the carburetor does have anything for the rod to hook on to.

[JM 35 Sedan]

That fan to radiator spacing looks good to me. Some, including me, may have been relating our concern based on fan spacing problems experienced in the past when installing an 8ba engine in a '35-'36 passenger car. The '35-'36 1/2 T pu trucks have more space between engine and radiator than the same year passenger cars. Apparently, this additional space makes a big difference.

[Jeff/Illinois]

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The pulley sheaves don't look like they line up right. Maybe just the camera angle. Like the fan pulley is about one inch too far forward.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Jeff/Illinois

The pulley sheaves don't look like they line up right. Maybe just the camera angle. Like the fan pulley is about one inch too far forward.

Look just a little deeper. It appears that the fan pulley lines-up with the FRONT sheave on the crankshaft pulley, visible just above the right side water pump pulley. That looks like it should work quite well. DD

[1stford]

So I'm stuck with some wiring issues. Wanted to put it on paper and see if anyone can weigh in on this with some thoughts. Heres where I am:

I currently have new wiring harnesses to fit 1936 truck.
I currently have master cylinder under the floor board
The foot starter switch has been removed and there is a start button on the dash.
Truck has a two wire generator (49 8BA)

So heres my thoughts. The new 36 harness wont work because
A). It is set up for 1 wire generator
B). My generator Needs a voltage Regulator
C). Needs starter button and solenoid wiring.
D). Harness does not have the brake light for master cylinder?

So I'd like to keep the 6 volt battery as I see that Optima makes one that is about 3.5 inches wide so I think it will still fit with the master cylinder?

Didn't know if going to Tyree harris and just having him back me a harness that would accommodate everything I need?

Thanks in advance for any thoughts or ideas you have.

[V8COOPMAN]

I'd get in touch with Tyree. The mods are all "do-able" to a stock harness. I'm lovin' this truck! DD

[1stford]

Anyone know who's sells an already restored 1936 ignition drop lock switch?

[Kerk]

I would try contacting JM on this site. He is 35 but ha some parts for the 36s. jmho Kerk

[1stford]

So I'm ready to put my Steering column in the truck. This is my 1st time to put it together so I'm not sure that everything, wiring, is working. Any tips from anyone on how to test that stuff before putting everything in? Thanks in advance.
Jeremie

[1stford]

Photo bucket got me and my pictures are gone so I wanted to update with some progress. Just got the door panels and wind lace in. Also got some more of the little stuff in the engine compartment.

[Lawson Cox]

Looking GREAT. Your door handles should be facing upward though, and your running boards should be black.

[1stford]

I'm having to run a voltage regulator and do not want it on my firewall. One idea I have is to put it in this seat box, under the seat. Any ideas on why this is a good or bad idea?
Thanks

[36Bill]

I use a regulator that looks just like the cutout and works well.
https://cgfordparts.com/wwwsectionfi...or_cutout.html

[1stford]

Originally Posted by 36Bill

I use a regulator that looks just like the cutout and works well.
https://cgfordparts.com/wwwsectionfi...or_cutout.html

I'm using a 49 generator and have the wiring harness for the 49. Would that all work just fine?

[Jeff/Illinois]

1stford looking good!!!!! Nice job!!!!

[Pat's 52]

Wish I could open the pictures. I'm computer illiterate to open the photobucket. One add said the cost would be $399.99. So I passed. Can anybody give some hints on how to open. Thank you!

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Pat's 52

Wish I could open the pictures. I'm computer illiterate to open the photobucket. One add said the cost would be $399.99. So I passed. Can anybody give some hints on how to open. Thank you!

YOU cannot open those. Only the ORIGINAL poster with the Photobucket account. Those pics are likely gone forever. DD

[1stford]

Yeah I had a bunch of pictures on photo bucket and they want to charge me to have them up. I'm going to try and go back and post the pictures that are missing. I was able to get almost all of the interior finished, hope to finish it tomorrow. Also got the horn finished and put on.
I'm not sure why the pictures are sideways but if you click on them they appear to be correct.

[flat-v8]

Wowee absolutely beautiful!

[1stford]

Could I get a couple ideas as to why the light switch would be hard to turn? I installed it and when the light switch is not on it turns smooth. When I put that on it turns easily for a few times and then gets where it won't go.

Also, is the correct way 1 to right and 2 clicks to the left?
Thanks in advance.

[Lawson Cox]

Originally Posted by FlatheadTed

Here's a few exhaust shots ,the trucks the same as a car, Nice truck to ,Ted

The tail pipe on the pickup is 4" shorter than the pass car. I still need to perform a briss on mine. LOL

[1stford]

I'm getting to the end and one of my last things is an exhaust system. I have no parts but want a factory look I'm hoping for recommendations based on experience. Couple thoughts I've had I'd buy a muffler from Roy Nacewitz and have exhaust shop build The rest. Or I've seen a kit from Waldron exhaust that looks nice. Any ideas?

Thanks.

[mrtexas]

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Originally Posted by 1stford

I'm getting to the end and one of my last things is an exhaust system. I have no parts but want a factory look I'm hoping for recommendations based on experience. Couple thoughts I've had I'd buy a muffler from Roy Nacewitz and have exhaust shop build The rest. Or I've seen a kit from Waldron exhaust that looks nice. Any ideas?

Thanks.

Wiring for these old girls is primitive. All you have is head/brake/tail lights, charging, and ignition switch. Later wiring harness should work just fine. If you can read a wiring diagram you should be OK. How about mounting the voltage regulator under the dash out of sight?

I like the paint job! Just sold a 28 pu painted dark green. Ignore the originality pubahs telling you the running boards aren't correct and should be black. If you like them body color keep em like that.

I've bought two stainless exhaust systems from Waldron. The 36 woodie one fit pretty good although they had to make a 2nd crossover pipe for me as a muffler shop had to add 2 inches to get it to fit. Charged just for materials. The 41 woodie stainless exhaust required me modifying every piece to get it to fit. I cut and tacked and had a friend tig with stainless. If you know the exhaust shop is very good with antique cars that sounds like a deal to me or if you are going with dual exhaust.

Your light switch should be one to the left for parking lights and one to the right for headlights if I remember from my 36 correctly. Do you have an original light switch, the bulb looking thingy at the end of the steering column? The repop ones are crap and should be avoided. Only other problem with light switch could be bent light switch rod.

[mrtexas]

Originally Posted by V8COOPMAN

I'd get in touch with Tyree. The mods are all "do-able" to a stock harness. I'm lovin' this truck! DD

I asked Tyree to make a 36 harness with turn signals and just one harness instead of several. He said no.

[1stford]

Originally Posted by mrtexas

Wiring for these old girls is primitive. All you have is head/brake/tail lights, charging, and ignition switch. Later wiring harness should work just fine. If you can read a wiring diagram you should be OK. How about mounting the voltage regulator under the dash out of sight?

I like the paint job! Just sold a 28 pu painted dark green. Ignore the originality pubahs telling you the running boards aren't correct and should be black. If you like them body color keep em like that.

I've bought two stainless exhaust systems from Waldron. The 36 woodie one fit pretty good although they had to make a 2nd crossover pipe for me as a muffler shop had to add 2 inches to get it to fit. Charged just for materials. The 41 woodie stainless exhaust required me modifying every piece to get it to fit. I cut and tacked and had a friend tig with stainless. If you know the exhaust shop is very good with antique cars that sounds like a deal to me or if you are going with dual exhaust.

Your light switch should be one to the left for parking lights and one to the right for headlights if I remember from my 36 correctly. Do you have an original light switch, the bulb looking thingy at the end of the steering column? The repop ones are crap and should be avoided. Only other problem with light switch could be bent light switch rod.

Thanks for the feedback.

[1stford]

Would anyone mind to post a picture of the glove box Spring installed for a 36 truck?

Thanks.

[KDL]

Looking good.

[VeryTangled]

36 passenger glove box photos here

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...4971&showall=1

[1stford]

I thought I'd post some pictures of my progress. I now have electricity rolling so its about ready to be started.

[Don Rogers]

There is no spring on a 36 glove box door. It's held closed by a clip.

[Don Rogers]

Here's a photo

[1stford]

Thanks Don. Had a sandwich bag labeled "glove box spring" and thought it went there.

[38bill]

That green just really looks great on that truck. Are you going with WWW's?

[1stford]

Originally Posted by 38bill

That green just really looks great on that truck. Are you going with WWW's?

I do not know what that means?

[38bill]

Originally Posted by 1stford

I do not know what that means?

Wide White Walls

[1stford]

They are 6.50

[Jeff/Illinois]

We're running 6.50/16's on our '36 PU I like them.

Have a 6.00/16 for a spare tire the 6.50 would be a tighter fit there.

[1stford]

Originally Posted by Jeff/Illinois

We're running 6.50/16's on our '36 PU I like them.

Have a 6.00/16 for a spare tire the 6.50 would be a tighter fit there.

Had to use an old 6.00 because the new 6.50 was a no go.

[Steel 35]

Looks very nice!

[37stake]

Very nice truck! A suggestion for tires that I put on my '37 stake last year. 6.50 - 16LT from Specialty Tires of America http://www.stausaonline.com/ (Made in the USA). STA Super Transport LT Bias Ply tube type. To keep them round when my truck is parked, I use Flatstoppers.

[1stford]

On the 36 truck windows is there not some type of rubber piece that keeps water from going between the window and door?

[1stford]

I've gotten to a point where I'm ready to start this up but when I tried there was not enough juice to turn it over. I charged the battery up and tried it again but still got the same thing, I'm using a 6V optima battery to get this going. I've been under the impressing, or thought this is a 6 volt system this whole time and wonder if it's possible these are 12V? One note is that all lights and horn work perfect with this battery, it's positive ground. It's just a shot in the dark but thought I'd post a few pics to see if it's possible to tell the difference? I am using a 6volt starter solenoid.

[1stford]

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A couple updated pictures

[JSeery]

Did you get it running?

[1stford]

I did. So simple and such a lesson for me. I added a ground from motor to frame and bam!

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by 1stford

I did. So simple and such a lesson for me. I added a ground from motor to frame and bam!

It's always the ground! Well, not quite, but it often is.

[AnthonyG]

Kudos, really turning out beautiful!

[1stford]

On the batter cover, that goes on the wooden floorboard, do you just use wood screws to hold that on? I don’t find anything that says what to do there?
Thanks.

[Don Rogers]

The battery cover is a hold over from the model a era. Its held in place with spring strips.

[1stford]

Originally Posted by Don Rogers

The battery cover is a hold over from the model a era. Its held in place with spring strips.

Are these sold somewhere. I cut my hole out last night, I had ordered the one lasted for a 36 car.

[Don Rogers]

Drake, Carpenter, C&G and others carry them. They cover a much small oval hole located in the floor board above the battery.

[1stford]

I thought I'd give an update as I finished the interior last night. I'm getting pretty close, hope to have this 4 year project done this week. I had a couple of questions I was hoping someone could chime in on.

1). The steering box says to use "heavy duty gear oil" what would that be?

2). My fuel gauge sits on E when it's at idol but goes up, to what I think is correct, as my RPM's raise. Any suggestions on where to start?

3). I don't love the cut that shows at the ebrake in the mat. Anyone have a better solution?

[Ben38]

Looking Good!!!

[Steve Seidl]

Probably redundant but get a copy of the so called Green Bible as a great reference source.

[Vintage Copper 47]

Originally Posted by 1stford

I thought I'd give an update as I finished the interior last night. I'm getting pretty close, hope to have this 4 year project done this week. I had a couple of questions I was hoping someone could chime in on.

1). The steering box says to use "heavy duty gear oil" what would that be?

2). My fuel gauge sits on E when it's at idol but goes up, to what I think is correct, as my RPM's raise. Any suggestions on where to start?

3). I don't love the cut that shows at the ebrake in the mat. Anyone have a better solution?

ANSWER to #3..get a piece of molded rubber in the shape of a long oval.. 3"by 5".. the distance of the stroke from brake on to brake off.. maybe make a slotted channel so it looks right couple of long screws.. just suggestion..

[Talkwrench]

Geez , quite different than mine .. So clean
1. Just use a semi fluid grease you'll be fine
2. mm dont know I use an aftermarket SW gauge.
3. not much you can do there is a boot that slides over the E brake, I cut a long flap that sits at the bottom of the E brake, under the floor mat so it covers any hole thats there backwards or forwards.

[Terranova]

Man, thanks for keeping up on this thread. So many start but never finish. I'm going to book mark this for reference as I embark on my '36 fordor project soon. I hope to do a thread a thourogh said yours. Thank you again. Glad you're close to getting to enjoy driving. Grandpa would be pleased

[1stford]

My project has come to an end and I wanted to thank everyone for all the help. Without the help from many people on this forum I would have been wandering aimlessly in my shop! I also wanted to say Thanks to Joe from Joes antique ford parts, Mac Van Pelt, Roy Nacewitz, all who answered may questions from me!

[cmbrucew]

Yu done good.


Bruce

[Talkwrench]

Now a video of you drivin' ... Well done .

['36 5W]

She's a beauty; congrats once again!

[OldGold360]

Beautiful truck... well done. I am just starting on my ‘36 pickup so I’m sure your posts will help me with my restoration.

[1stford]

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Originally Posted by OldGold360

Beautiful truck... well done. I am just starting on my ‘36 pickup so I’m sure your posts will help me with my restoration.

Feel free to reach out if you have any have questions!

[Graeme / New Zealand]

Love it!......and nice job too. The "long term pain" pays of when the job is done doesn't it? Been there done that.

GB

[OldGold360]

Originally Posted by 1stford

Feel free to reach out if you have any have questions!

Thank you very much. I am sure I will take you up on your offer.

[RA Wrench]

Great inspiration, I have most of a basket case 36 pickup sitting and waiting. I am starting on a rebuild of a 53 Merc flathead, hopefully I will live long enough to see one or both of the projects on the road.

[1stford]

Originally Posted by RA Wrench

Great inspiration, I have most of a basket case 36 pickup sitting and waiting. I am starting on a rebuild of a 53 Merc flathead, hopefully I will live long enough to see one or both of the projects on the road.

Post pictures when you are restoring that Merc!

[Jeff/Illinois]

1stFord, your '36 pickup is truly outstanding!

I love it

(From the owner of a '36 PU who is very partial to the '35-'36 Ford pickups and ton and a half's! Probably one of the sharpest trucks Ford ever built.)

[1stford]

Originally Posted by Jeff/Illinois

1stFord, your '36 pickup is truly outstanding!

I love it

(From the owner of a '36 PU who is very partial to the '35-'36 Ford pickups and ton and a half's! Probably one of the sharpest trucks Ford ever built.)

Thanks so much Jeff! I noticed when I was looking through this that I really didn’t post many pictures of it completed so I’m going to try to do that soon.

[OldGold360]

Originally Posted by 1stford

Thanks so much Jeff! I noticed when I was looking through this that I really didn’t post many pictures of it completed so I’m going to try to do that soon.

Yes, please do. That will be really helpful on my ‘36. Thanks

[GB SISSON]

This has been really fun to watch, but quite different than my flathead trucks so I never have anything to contribute except for this highly enthusiastic two thumbs up. What I'm saying is that If I saw you out tooling around in this beautiful rig I wouldn;t give you the usual, well deserved 'thumbs up' but would let go of the wheel and give you two! Well done!

[bobH]

Four years... where has the time gone? You should be very proud. And, I'm sure that your grandpa would be especially proud of you and what you have done with his pickup. Needless to say, I'm with the 'thumbs-up' folks here. It's a beauty.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by 1stford

A couple updated pictures

[1stford]

Originally Posted by bobH

Four years... where has the time gone? You should be very proud. And, I'm sure that your grandpa would be especially proud of you and what you have done with his pickup. Needless to say, I'm with the 'thumbs-up' folks here. It's a beauty.

Thanks Bob.