Bought three Flathead V8 engines yesterday

[Ol' Ron]

when you dissemble these engines, make sure you keep the rods with the crankshafts. I say this to insure the balance of the crank asssy is not broken. The factory balance job is very good and just replacing the pistons will have little affect on it. Thus you can save a few hundred dollars on the rebuild. besides very few balance rs know how to balance flathead rods.

[gavinnz]

Originally Posted by Ol' Ron

when you dissemble these engines, make sure you keep the rods with the crankshafts. I say this to insure the balance of the crank asssy is not broken. The factory balance job is very good and just replacing the pistons will have little affect on it. Thus you can save a few hundred dollars on the rebuild. besides very few balance rs know how to balance flathead rods.

Thanks Ron, I will take lots of photos and have labels and a pen ready to go to keep everything in order. I have a bad memory so I HAVE to do these things!!

[gavinnz]

I have the first of many questions.... if I was to use a Ford Flathead gearbox that will bolt right up to my 1951 239 engine to drive my boat, using reverse, neutral and third (which would want to be 1:1 ratio). Also using a weak clutch with hand control on the gear lever?? I have one from the bus (off "the truck motor") to go pick up when I get the engines, but the seller says it's huge and maybe I could get something smaller?? Thoughts?

Were car and truck gearboxes even different when behind the 239?

[dwaynec]

I may be speaking out of turn here, but most of the boats that I know of have a two to one reduction gearing in the "transmission".

[gavinnz]

Originally Posted by dwaynec

I may be speaking out of turn here, but most of the boats that I know of have a two to one reduction gearing in the "transmission".

Bigger slow displacement hulls use reduction gearboxes... speedboats with planing hulls use 1:1 forward gear. I have a marine trans that is 1:1 that I will sell as it's more period to use the Ford box. So all my shaft and prop calculations have been done on 1:1.

[JSeery]

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Originally Posted by gavinnz

I have the first of many questions.... if I was to use a Ford Flathead gearbox that will bolt right up to my 1951 239 engine to drive my boat, using reverse, neutral and third (which would want to be 1:1 ratio). Also using a weak clutch with hand control on the gear lever?? I have one from the bus (off "the truck motor") to go pick up when I get the engines, but the seller says it's huge and maybe I could get something smaller?? Thoughts?

Were car and truck gearboxes even different when behind the 239?

Both the clutch/pressure plate and the transmission from a truck would be larger and heavy. I would think you would want a small diameter light weight clutch setup and a passenger car transmission.

[cas3]

and, the truck trans will have a very low reverse, so you wont have much for brakes without the throttle being wide open. if you have a marine trans already, thats what i would be using

[gavinnz]

Originally Posted by cas3

and, the truck trans will have a very low reverse, so you wont have much for brakes without the throttle being wide open. if you have a marine trans already, thats what i would be using

Brakes??

I could see how you you would think that... here is my reasoning for wanting to use a Ford flathead gearbox....

I have a Ford gearbox.
Low reverse is great! Slower the better for maneuvering a small boat.
It will bolt right up without expensive engineering for adapter plates and linkages.
I can sell the marine trans (which is too modern for this build) and put the money into the Flathead.
It's more likely what someone in New Zealand in the 1930-50's would have done and therefore more period authentic.
I have a bell housing and clutch parts that would work.
I would not have to worry about an oil cooler for the trans like you do with the hydraulic marine trans... with all it's clutches creating heat.

The only down side is that I would have to make a thrust bearing block to take for and aft forces from the prop that a car trans is not designed to absorb.

I hope that helps explain my thoughts.

[gavinnz]

Can some one help me id this bell housing? Seems bigger than all the Ford car ones I have seen on the net... the only one I did see that looked like this was a 51-52 Merc. Is it light or heavy truck??

[gavinnz]

I can answer my own question now... that is the standard bell housing from the "car engine"..... So not truck.

[alchemy]

Does the rusty lump engine have a dual pulley on the crank still? That is a nice part for the guys putting blowers on their motors and is kinda hard to find. Worth a couple coins. The dual pulley water pumps are easy to find, but the crank pulleys always disappear. The dual pulley for the generator is coveted too if that was around the pile.

[gavinnz]

Originally Posted by alchemy

Does the rusty lump engine have a dual pulley on the crank still? That is a nice part for the guys putting blowers on their motors and is kinda hard to find. Worth a couple coins. The dual pulley water pumps are easy to find, but the crank pulleys always disappear. The dual pulley for the generator is coveted too if that was around the pile.

I will check! Could be good for me to run extra pumps for marine use also!

[gavinnz]

I have spent the last 9 days reading everything I can about the Ford flathead V8 engines... steep learning curve I must say. After 9 days non stop I am now thinking and dreaming in cast iron!!

I have only just scratched the very top surface of the subject yet I have gained a real appreciation for what a following these engines have and the character they have which gives them such an attraction.

I am looking forward to getting into my engines and learning more when I get them to my workshop in a few weeks.

Thanks to those who have helped me learn.
Regards
Gavin
New Zealand

[Art Newland]

I have a model A tranny that's been converted for use in a boat. Forward and reverse with 1:1 only.

[gavinnz]

I went and picked up the two 8BA engines today, left the rust ball for another day... Not overall good news! The "truck engine" had bloody water inside the crankcase.... and the "car engine" has had a crack between the valve and cylinder repaired in the past with what looks like solder! So not the best start for the project... tomorrow when it's light again I will clean off the barrel surfaces of the truck engine and look for cracks... in the vain hope I don't find any.

[gavinnz]

Picked up a HUGE gearbox from the "truck engine" which came from a bus.... I think I can use the bell housing to attach a car gearbox?? Is it the same pattern?

[gavinnz]

Engine pictures.... the repaired crack....

[gavinnz]

More pics...

[gavinnz]

I have all the heads and the other inlet also, plus the car bell housing and clutches.
One bugger starter, no distributors or carbs could be found... but I did get a generator and a fan and few other small bits.

[gavinnz]

Just noticed that the truck engine has a iron front housing for the distributor and the car block as one in aluminium.... does that say anything at all??