The Ford Barn

daveymc29 · 02-08-2019, 11:50 PM

So I crawled under to change the oil. Got my 16 inch crescent wrench in tow. Tighten it nicely onto the drain plug and pull in the counter clockwise direction. This sucker is tight, but turning. After about three full turns it is still very tight so I examine the situation closely. There is no sign that the plug has begun to back out of the pan. Get a long handled persuader and a black 15/16 socket and pull some more. After several more complete revolutions counter clockwise there is no sign of it getting easier to turn nor is it backing out. Next step is change the oil by pumping out through the dip stick hole and add four quarts.

But, there still remains the problem of getting this puppy apart short of dropping the pan, which some idiot has glued in place with the black silicone mastic or whatever you wish to call it. This is quite a high point truck and we don't want to be brutalizing things to get it back aright! Any suggestions? We rather detest the idea of removing the engine to do it right as this truck will run approximately 10/15 miles per year on a busy year. Also best restoration of 1929 AA any of our club has seen, so don't like taking anything apart just to do it.

30 Closed Cab PU · 02-08-2019, 11:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by daveymc29

So I crawled under to change the oil. Got my 16 inch crescent wrench in tow. Tighten it nicely onto the drain plug and pull in the counter clockwise direction. This sucker is tight, but turning. After about three full turns it is still very tight so I examine the situation closely. There is no sign that the plug has begun to back out of the pan. Get a long handled persuader and a black 15/16 socket and pull some more. After several more complete revolutions counter clockwise there is no sign of it getting easier to turn nor is it backing out. Next step is change the oil by pumping out through the dip stick hole and add four quarts.

But, there still remains the problem of getting this puppy apart short of dropping the pan, which some idiot has glued in place with the black silicone mastic or whatever you wish to call it. This is quite a high point truck and we don't want to be brutalizing things to get it back aright! Any suggestions? We rather detest the idea of removing the engine to do it right as this truck will run approximately 10/15 miles per year on a busy year. Also best restoration of 1929 AA any of our club has seen, so don't like taking anything apart just to do it.

Had this happen to me. The plug fits into a circular threded piece that is brazed/soldered/welded into the oil pan. If the joint breaks, the plug just spins. To fix I dropped the oil pan , emptied it, and took to local welder to have it welded in.

J Franklin · 02-09-2019, 01:12 AM

Or use solder.

Synchro909 · 02-09-2019, 02:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J Franklin

Or use solder.

The area has been contaminated with oil. Getting solder to run will be near impossible.
I too have had this happen. I was about 3,000 miles from home at a National Rally and servicing the car for the return trip. I changed the oil by dropping the sump, tipping the oil out and replacing it. Proper repair would ahve to wait till I got home. (3,000 miles on an oil change is normal for me when travelling long distances and a full flow oil filter is fitted). The "I'm home" service meant the sump came off again and fixed properly. If the car were a high point one, only a repaint would be needed in addition to that IMHO.

CT Jack · 02-09-2019, 08:53 AM

The only and best solution based on personal experience is to remove the pan and have the threaded insert welded. A couple of tack welds and soldering can also be used but it must be completely oil free for soldering to work. I would weld. This would be a good time to clean the pan and rebuild the oil pump.

Purdy Swoft · 02-09-2019, 01:44 PM

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Cleaning away the oil in and out of the pan will be absolutely necessary before attempting to solder or welding . I would prefer replacing the oil pan with a better one rather than trying to weld the threaded insert .

30 Closed Cab PU · 02-09-2019, 02:55 PM

When new did the pans have the inserts, or is the insert a repair insert if the hole is stripped?

F.M. · 02-09-2019, 04:24 PM

You say its a 1929 Truck, How Early ?? You might just want to drop the pan and put a 1928 Style pan on it and not have that problem again as you can just take off the whole clean out plate..

daveymc29 · 02-09-2019, 04:56 PM

Strangely I don't recall when it was built. I do have an early pan somewhere and that would be a good cure for this issue, though I have never seen this problem until now.

F.M. · 02-09-2019, 05:47 PM

Remember, Ford used up it old excess parts on its trucks for a long time.. I have seen what you have several times and the last post by me was how I fixed it, the easy way !!

Joe K · 02-09-2019, 08:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 30 Closed Cab PU

When new did the pans have the inserts, or is the insert a repair insert if the hole is stripped?

I believe the pans were made this way new. I have fixed one with a MIG, another leaks but the plug turns out, the other is a project in waiting.

One solution once you get the plug removed is the rubber stopper sort of fix. They sell a "hat shaped" device you put in much as was done in the old thermos bottles - this catches enough of the lip to reduce or eliminate the small leak in this area (around the ring.)

It may be possible to "stake" the ring with a punch just enough to make it stay stationary and allow the plug to turn out of it. Or - conversely - you may simply punch a hole in your oil pan and cause more work for yourself in getting it welded shut.

Of course by then the oil will be out of the pan making your repair that much easier.

Joe K

CT Jack · 02-09-2019, 10:58 PM

In my view there's nothing wrong with the original design. The problem is with the end user. Some people love to crank on nuts and bolts beyond their intended end use. If the drain plug shows signs of leaking I would first examine the sealing face of the nut for burrs or gouges. If the suface is not uniformly smooth it can be lightly touched up with a file or replaced with a new plug. I would add a thin copper washer and then mildly torque the nut. If it leaks a little the nut can be slightly retourqed again.

40 Deluxe · 02-10-2019, 12:31 AM

Try hitting the plug with your air impact gun. The sudden jolting may knock it loose.

02-08-2019, 11:50 PM	#1
daveymc29 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Danville, CA Posts: 1,553	1929 AA oil drain on engine So I crawled under to change the oil. Got my 16 inch crescent wrench in tow. Tighten it nicely onto the drain plug and pull in the counter clockwise direction. This sucker is tight, but turning. After about three full turns it is still very tight so I examine the situation closely. There is no sign that the plug has begun to back out of the pan. Get a long handled persuader and a black 15/16 socket and pull some more. After several more complete revolutions counter clockwise there is no sign of it getting easier to turn nor is it backing out. Next step is change the oil by pumping out through the dip stick hole and add four quarts. But, there still remains the problem of getting this puppy apart short of dropping the pan, which some idiot has glued in place with the black silicone mastic or whatever you wish to call it. This is quite a high point truck and we don't want to be brutalizing things to get it back aright! Any suggestions? We rather detest the idea of removing the engine to do it right as this truck will run approximately 10/15 miles per year on a busy year. Also best restoration of 1929 AA any of our club has seen, so don't like taking anything apart just to do it.

02-09-2019, 01:12 AM	#3
J Franklin Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Oregon Posts: 5,959	Re: 1929 AA oil drain on engine Or use solder.

02-09-2019, 08:53 AM	#5
CT Jack Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Hebron, CT Posts: 432	Re: 1929 AA oil drain on engine The only and best solution based on personal experience is to remove the pan and have the threaded insert welded. A couple of tack welds and soldering can also be used but it must be completely oil free for soldering to work. I would weld. This would be a good time to clean the pan and rebuild the oil pump.

02-09-2019, 01:44 PM	#6
Purdy Swoft Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Alabama Posts: 8,099	Re: 1929 AA oil drain on engine Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Cleaning away the oil in and out of the pan will be absolutely necessary before attempting to solder or welding . I would prefer replacing the oil pan with a better one rather than trying to weld the threaded insert .

02-09-2019, 02:55 PM	#7
30 Closed Cab PU Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2018 Posts: 2,332	Re: 1929 AA oil drain on engine When new did the pans have the inserts, or is the insert a repair insert if the hole is stripped?

02-09-2019, 04:24 PM	#8
F.M. BANNED Join Date: Sep 2017 Posts: 385	Re: 1929 AA oil drain on engine You say its a 1929 Truck, How Early ?? You might just want to drop the pan and put a 1928 Style pan on it and not have that problem again as you can just take off the whole clean out plate..

02-09-2019, 04:56 PM	#9
daveymc29 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Danville, CA Posts: 1,553	Re: 1929 AA oil drain on engine Strangely I don't recall when it was built. I do have an early pan somewhere and that would be a good cure for this issue, though I have never seen this problem until now.

02-09-2019, 05:47 PM	#10
F.M. BANNED Join Date: Sep 2017 Posts: 385	Re: 1929 AA oil drain on engine Remember, Ford used up it old excess parts on its trucks for a long time.. I have seen what you have several times and the last post by me was how I fixed it, the easy way !!

02-09-2019, 10:58 PM	#12
CT Jack Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Hebron, CT Posts: 432	Re: 1929 AA oil drain on engine In my view there's nothing wrong with the original design. The problem is with the end user. Some people love to crank on nuts and bolts beyond their intended end use. If the drain plug shows signs of leaking I would first examine the sealing face of the nut for burrs or gouges. If the suface is not uniformly smooth it can be lightly touched up with a file or replaced with a new plug. I would add a thin copper washer and then mildly torque the nut. If it leaks a little the nut can be slightly retourqed again.

02-10-2019, 12:31 AM	#13
40 Deluxe Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: now Kuna, Idaho Posts: 3,778	Re: 1929 AA oil drain on engine Try hitting the plug with your air impact gun. The sudden jolting may knock it loose.