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Old 08-22-2018, 06:19 PM   #1
draggin49
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Default Evaporust question...

So here’s my dilemma on my stock motor v8 32 roadster, the heads on the side that is closest to the firewall are showing a temperature noticeably higher than the head reads out on the side close to the water pump. I’ve read the stories of these motors being full off casting sand , rust , scaling etc .
So I went and picked up gallons of the evaporust .
The motor runs well aside from these elevated temps at the rear of the heads . My radiator seems to be working fine based on the temperatures it is reading at the top and bottom of the radiator .
Should I empty out the cooling system and then fill it with the evaporust ?
Is it similar to how guys are doing the vinegar treatment where they put it in then drive with it for a bit then flush and repeat the process.

Or is this likely to end up being a situation where the motor will have to be removed /torn apart to fix the problem? I figured if that’s the case the evaporust can’t hurt to give a try .
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Old 08-22-2018, 06:26 PM   #2
JSeery
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Default Re: Evaporust question...

The best way to work on it would be to take it apart and physically clean the rear of the block. But that is a major operation. I would try the evaporust first.
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Old 08-22-2018, 06:34 PM   #3
draggin49
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Default Re: Evaporust question...

Yeah if it doesn’t change the temp after the evaporust I will bite the bullet and remove /disassemble/rebuild the motor .
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Old 08-22-2018, 07:02 PM   #4
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Default Re: Evaporust question...

Quote:
Originally Posted by draggin49 View Post
Yeah if it doesn’t change the temp after the evaporust I will bite the bullet and remove /disassemble/rebuild the motor .

You'll do a decent job by just pulling the heads and using a long screwdriver and coathanger. Flush well with hoses off. You'd be amazed the stuff that comes out.



Nice time to look over of the pistons/walls and valves to see if you need a rebuild (pan cleanout next and bearing check ). Cost of time and some head gaskets.
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Old 08-22-2018, 07:16 PM   #5
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Default Re: Evaporust question...

I love Evaporust but my experience is it won't remove heavy rust scale. It makes a black film on top of the rust barnacles that needs to be brushed off to get it working again. It also won't do much for the rust piled up in the bottom of the block jackets. I found vinegar didn't work that well either in bad rust.

21 stud blocks have plugs in the pan rail, you can get an awful lot of crap out by removing those plugs and flushing the sand etc out through those holes. A long skinny screwdriver or coathanger etc through the head gasket holes will stir up the packed sand and rust and let you flush it out the bottom. Takes a while if you don't disassemble it and use a pressure washer but it could save a lot of work and prevent disturbing the original dirt and paint on the car by removing the engine. Don't pound on the screwdriver, some pan rails are pretty thin and can be poked through between the bolt holes.

I found Ospho to be magic for cleaning water jackets, it's 60% phosphoric acid with some surfactants and etc. I think I posted photos here of a 21 stud block I cleaned with Ospho, it looks like a new casting. I'm going to try using it on a running model T engine as soon as I can get it in the garage.
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Old 08-22-2018, 07:21 PM   #6
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Default Re: Evaporust question...

GREASE OR OIL WILL KILL EVAPORUST. Read the package.
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Old 08-22-2018, 07:45 PM   #7
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Default Re: Evaporust question...

Take the head off that side and rig a hose up with about a 1/8" id pipe and poke it down the holes and flush(remove the water pump on that side also). Also use a long rod or screwdriver to knock out the really crusty area. Usually you will find an accumulation of core sand and dirt by the rear 2 cylinders.
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Old 08-22-2018, 09:35 PM   #8
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Default Re: Evaporust question...

the last one i did was with heads off, dry the inside and scrape with a long screw driver, then with a piece of 3/8 copper tubing taped on to the end of the shop vac heres what i got from one side
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Old 08-22-2018, 09:52 PM   #9
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Default Re: Evaporust question...

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Originally Posted by cas3 View Post
the last one i did was with heads off, dry the inside and scrape with a long screw driver, then with a piece of 3/8 copper tubing taped on to the end of the shop vac heres what i got from one side
Wow yeah I think mine is gonna have a pile like that .
I forgot to ask , what kind of gasket works best with the steel head ?

How about gaskets for an aluminum head ? I have a pair of Eddie Meyers that I picked up so I guess this would be the time to swap em on.
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Old 08-22-2018, 09:57 PM   #10
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Default Re: Evaporust question...

Basic thought is... copper/composite for iron heads. Composite for aluminum. 2cents.
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Old 08-23-2018, 12:22 AM   #11
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Default Re: Evaporust question...

I have an 8BA that was over heating and I used Thermocure, it is mixed 32 oz. to 3 gal of water. My car holds over 4.5 gallons of water, so I used 1.5 bottles of Thermocure.

I left it in the car for 2 weeks driving it ocassionally.

After draining and flushing, I added 25% antifreeze along with a bottle Hy-per lube super cool. It is a wetting agent used in race cars. It helps with cooling. The more antifreeze in the system the less effective the Hy-per lube is.

Thermocure helped my car, but I feel i need another treatment. I only run 160 T-stats and never see the temperature over 180.

You can buy these products thru Walmart on line, lots cheaper than in a parts house.
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Old 08-23-2018, 12:42 AM   #12
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Default Re: Evaporust question...

I like evaporust but it sure has it´s shortcomings...
As already stated it hates anything petroleum based so you need to run some detergent first and make sure all grease and oil is out.
Next is air kills it to so keep it in closed containers...open contaier soaking stuff and the contact with air shortens its lifespan.
I usually just pour it straight in not using thermocure just the regular stuff run the engine a bit now and then letting it work for a day.
Then drain radiatorhoses off and flush it with the biggest waterhose available.
From what i found extended periods of soaking without flushing or brushing doesn´t do much so atleast run the engine daily trying to loosen rust scale and other stuff.
Best is to flush it out and do another run with evaporust again.
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Old 08-23-2018, 06:19 AM   #13
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Default Re: Evaporust question...

I agree with "flatheadmurre". The "Evaoporust" treatment helps, but I don't think it will do much with the compacted sand/debris problem. Once you get that stuff out, I think it does a good job. Also as he says, you need a super clean system for it to work properly. I did my '51 Merc engine 3 successive times with intervening flushes and it turned out quite well. I have posted these picture before, but I think they show what can be done with an engine in good condition.
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Old 08-23-2018, 07:23 AM   #14
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Default Re: Evaporust question...

“the heads on the side that is closest to the firewall are showing a temperature noticeably higher than the head reads out on the side close to the water pump. “
How much is the difference in temp? Is the difference the same on left and right heads? Is the block hotter in the back also? Is your coolant rusty brown? I’d flush with water to see if it is dirty before I took any thing apart. I agree that disassembly is the best way to clean it. ... Mark
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Old 08-23-2018, 08:35 AM   #15
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Default Re: Evaporust question...

Rust911 is either stronger depending on how strong you mix it than Evaporust. It is a concentrate you can mix up stronger. Oh and it costs $4/gallon vs $30 for Evaporust. A gallon of Rust911 concentrate costs $60 including shipping and makes 16 gallons of "Evaporust." I've bought several gallons of it. Stronger means faster in my experience.
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Old 08-23-2018, 09:06 AM   #16
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Default Re: Evaporust question...

I just used "thermocure" by evaporust in my 31 closed cab pickup and it seemed to work very well
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Old 08-23-2018, 09:25 AM   #17
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Default Re: Evaporust question...

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Originally Posted by Magoo2 View Post
I just used "thermocure" by evaporust in my 31 closed cab pickup and it seemed to work very well
Wonder what that stuff is. Can't be the same as evaporust as it has an odor.
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Old 08-23-2018, 11:10 AM   #18
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Default Re: Evaporust question...

I cleaned an engine with it out of the car and on an engine stand. The rear of the block was FULL of dirt/rust/etc. It was PILED UP back there.

Chemicals are good for surface rust. They will do NOTHING to clear out piled up debris in the back of the block. It will NEED scraped, and flushed out.

I dug at the block I did with skinny screwdrivers and coat hangers, then blasted the debris out with a pressure washer. That was round 1. This process was then repeated until it was clean. Simply pouring a chemical in there will do nothing. My advice, is to pull the heads, and do it in the car. Pulling the heads on these engines isn't a big deal. Just do it.

I would probably use the following method with the engine in the car:

1. Scrape with screwdrivers and coat hangers.
2. Use a shop vac reduced down to a 3/8" copper pipe to reach down in there and suck out the dislodged debris.
3. Use compressed air through a blow nozzle. See about attaching a length of 1/4" copper pipe to reach down and blow/dislodge debris... then suck it out with the shop vac.

Continue with these methods until it's clean.

To make a significant difference, you MUST use mechanical means to scrape all that crud out. Chemicals will be ineffective.

Good Luck!
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Old 08-23-2018, 12:41 PM   #19
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Default Re: Evaporust question...

I appreciate all the input , I will pull the heads and do the scraping /vacuuming and physically dislodge the stuff
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Old 08-23-2018, 03:00 PM   #20
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Default Re: Evaporust question...

Here is my block after Ospho in the water jackets then a dip in Esprit rust remover (like Evaporust or Rust 911)
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