spark and throttle levers too stiff

[Bob S]

My spark advance and throttle rods are very stiff and difficult to move. Probably a result of this car sitting unused for several years before I got it. I thought they would loosen up with use, but haven't very much. I'm quite certain that the stiffness is in the upper column bushing. I expect that a little lube is all that is needed, but I wonder if I need to be concerned about using something that might damage the rubber anti-rattle sleeves. Any suggestions?

Bob

[pat in Santa Cruz]

its probably the upper bushing. Its not uncommon on open cars. You can try Kroil or other penetrant. The anti rattlers are mid shaft and should not be affected. If things are that corroded, the anti rattlers could be bad anyway. If the bushing is too corroded, you are looking at replacing it.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Mine were the same way, and still are pretty much. I used some Kroil, then every once in a while drop some oil on the top bushing. Mine never will be right until I rebuild the steering and replace the top bushing. As Pat said, the rubber anti-rattler in the center of the rod won't be affected and is probably bad by now anyway. Everyone I've taken apart has the rubber compressed to a flat on one side and usually split at the thin flat side.

[Rusty Homestead Fl]

Mine are stiff too. Have to bump them with the palm of my hand to adjust them. I remember on the old "BARN" a thread that had a few comments stating the upper bushing will "swell" over time and compress against the rods. I havn't gotten into mine yet to try lubing. Has to help.

[Kirby1374]

Originally Posted by Rusty Homestead Fl

Mine are stiff too. Have to bump them with the palm of my hand to adjust them. I remember on the old "BARN" a thread that had a few comments stating the upper bushing will "swell" over time and compress against the rods. I havn't gotten into mine yet to try lubing. Has to help.

Mine are the opposite. The throttle moves so free it doesn't like to stay at a fast idle.

[Marco Tahtaras]

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As noted, the potmetal upper bushing is likely gone bad and swelled from exposure. It's not likely it can improved much without replacing the bushing or at least removing the rods and honing out the holes just enough to allow motion without rattles. I had never seen this until a year or two ago when I pulled my Fordor out of storage and also found my storage had not remained dry through winter as expected. I was not happy!

[Bob S]

Thanks to all of you for the advice. I am first trying Kroil (actually, Sil-Kroil) and it is already loosening up noticeably. Still not normal, but I will give it more time, then use some oil. It looks like I may be able to at least move it to a much lower level on the to-do list.

Bob

[mass A man]

Hi Bob! Just had to say I was in the same boat with very stiff spark advance and throttle lever on my original '31 p.u. I lubed the heck out of it with limited results-- Finally time had come for steering box/ column rebuild. Honed the orig. upper bushing holes, Now after job is all done, I'm in spark advance HEAVEN! Finger tip control! Best of luck, Pete.

[Special Coupe Frank]

Don't get the throttle lever too loose, or it won't hold its setting. ( Throttle will close under spring-pressure.)

[spinelll]

Originally Posted by Kirby1374

Mine are the opposite. The throttle moves so free it doesn't like to stay at a fast idle.

Same here. How do I "tighten it up?"

[d.j. moordigian]

Does anybody make an EXCELLENT repop of the pot metal upper bushing for
a mid-1928, one that will pass muster? Thank you

[Fred K-OR]

When I rebuilt my 29 7 tooth, I used an aftermarket upper bushing from Mac's. It seems to work fine. If you don't rebuild, I think the advise given above using Kroil and maybe followed with some WD40 or 3-in-one oil may help.

[pat in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by spinelll

Same here. How do I "tighten it up?"

tension on the rods comes from the springs and the tension they create on the lever against the register. If the rods are worn where they contact the register, or if the notches are worn smooth, the lever moves too freely. Done properly, the rods are replaced or restored and the register notches are filed sharp. The registers can be moved closer to the rods to increase spring tension by tapping them. When restoring original rods, a small piece of welding rod can be welded to the worn area and filed sharp before re-plating, so the sharp point fits into the restored notches.