29 Tudor front brake inspection

[buddyholley19]

I was checking my front wheel bearings today , I'm have basic mechanical skills at best but trying to learn. I found the front passenger side inner wheel bearing like this, it doesn't want to come off the spindle, driver side came off no issue at all.

I also notice the damage to the inner dust ring, the bearing seems to spin ok without any grinding sounds, what the best way to get the bearing off? I can't re pack with grease as required .I do have the red book.Im not sure the brakes are 100 percent stock,but not sure.

I cant seem the rotate the picture to the correct position sorry.
Any advise is most appreciated thanks in advance

[1955cj5]

Difficult to tell without being there, looks like the spindle itself is damaged...maybe someone in the car's past tried to pry that bearing off ..?

You might have to take the dust ring( grease baffle) off and see what you have then...

Here are a couple pictures, maybe you can compare them to what you have...

[Bob C]

Here you go.

[1crosscut]

If you have a cheap screw driver that is expendable you can heat it so as to put a 90 degree bend in it and try to work it loose. If you can't get it that way the next step would probably be to take the grease ring off to get a better shot at it. Hopefully that will work. If not it gets a little more difficult but it will come off.

[denniskliesen]

For starters I think the bolts holding your backing plate should go through the grease baffle through the backing plate through the spindle. In other words they are in backwards. Your grease ring is shot. What does the inside of your hub look like? Got a picture of your hub?

[john charlton]

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From your picture it looks like no grease in the bearing unless you have cleaned out prior to the pic. The bearing is seized on the spindle the grease baffle is damaged as someone has tried to pry the bearing off . I had this on a spare spindle and no matter what I tried the bearing just would not budge .In the end I used an angle grinder and ground away the inner race on opposite sides stop before you touch the spindle . the race was then knocked off fairly easily . I cleaned up the bearing land and it was within spec and good to go . This of course is the last resort but it does work . You have to break up the roller cage and remove the brake shoes, backing plate etc etc .to get better access . I would think someone ran the wheel bearing with preload and cooked the bearing . Front wheelbearings should never have any preload all the good books tell you how to adjust them .Wear safety glasses !!!

John in lovely warm summer weather Suffolk County England .

[buddyholley19]

Originally Posted by denniskliesen

For starters I think the bolts holding your backing plate should go through the grease baffle through the backing plate through the spindle. In other words they are in backwards. Your grease ring is shot. What does the inside of your hub look like? Got a picture of your hub?

The hub looks to be in good shape

[JBill]

Originally Posted by denniskliesen

For starters I think the bolts holding your backing plate should go through the grease baffle through the backing plate through the spindle. In other words they are in backwards. Your grease ring is shot. What does the inside of your hub look like? Got a picture of your hub?

Not to pile on, but I think the brake shoe pins are also in backwards, though I don't think that would contribute to your problem.

[Bob C]

Originally Posted by JBill

Not to pile on, but I think the brake shoe pins are also in backwards, though I don't think that would contribute to your problem.

They sure are.

Bob

[1955cj5]

Do you have a copy of Les Andrew's Mechanics Handbook Vol 1? If not you should get a copy as you will need it.

As mentioned above your roller pins are in backwards. The head of the pin is supposed to ride on the roller track that is behind the wedge on the bottom of the brake backing plate.

It looks like your lining has worn more on the bottom..correcting those pins will move the shoes up a bit and give you more effective brakes..you can correct the problem by swapping the shoes front-to-back....i.e. flipping them over...

Mine certainly are not perfect but this will give you the idea of how the shoes and pins should look....

The second picture shows the well-worn roller track that is behind the wedge...I repaired these with a bead of weld and a dremel tool....

[Tom Endy]

The original photo indicates the four mounting bolts are reversed. The head of the bolts should be inside the drum. The nuts with cotter pins on the surface of the backing plate. This is opposite of how the rear backing plates are installed. This is a common error and I have seen it many times. When the bolts are reversed the rotating hardware can contact the nuts.

More important is the damage seen to the A1190 dust seal. I suspect this is a repo that flooded the market about 10 years ago. They have the word "India" stamped on them. Every dimension about them is wrong and they can and will jam the inner wheel bearing.

Today Bratton's is having them made locally and correct. However, I prefer an original. An original will have a series of grooves around the outside diameter. You can easily run without them. I encountered this problem about 10 years ago when I installed these poor quality repos. I removed them and drove my Vic for about a year with no dust seals installed without a problem until I found some originals at a swap meet.

Tom Endy

[Tom Wesenberg]

The first picture in #7 shows a sharp edge where the rolled edge is.
This would mean the drums have been turned quite a bit, and are probably at the limit.
The less metal, the quicker they heat up and expand.
The more they expand, the more the pedal goes to the floor.

[buddyholley19]

Thanks you very much for the great information is much appreciated Gord

[buddyholley19]

Originally Posted by 1crosscut

If you have a cheap screw driver that is expendable you can heat it so as to put a 90 degree bend in it and try to work it loose. If you can't get it that way the next step would probably be to take the grease ring off to get a better shot at it. Hopefully that will work. If not it gets a little more difficult but it will come off.

Dave big thanks your screw driver tip worked great it took me longer to heat and bend two old screw drivers than it did to pop off the bearing.thanks a ton Gord

[SeaSlugs]

Originally Posted by buddyholley19

Dave big thanks your screw driver tip worked great it took me longer to heat and bend two old screw drivers than it did to pop off the bearing.thanks a ton Gord

Glad you got it off but now that we've seen what the previous guy did i can bet the other side is just as messed up and so is the rear... I wouldn't drive the car till you pull all 4 drums and fix the previous mistakes... Brakes are the 2nd most important aspect to any car so i would not run around with marginal brakes...

[Dick Steinkamp]

Originally Posted by SeaSlugs

G Brakes are the 2nd most important aspect to any car so i would not run around with marginal brakes...

What's the first?

[JBill]

Originally Posted by Dick Steinkamp

What's the first?

Steering?

[aermotor]

Originally Posted by Dick Steinkamp

What's the first?

$$$$

[Dick Steinkamp]

Originally Posted by aermotor

$$$$

...............

[1crosscut]

Glad it worked for you.